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Old 02-06-2013 | 11:20 AM
  #1321  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Mike

test a better drivers B4 and use his set-up before you try to discover on your own.

This way you can get on pace .

Then any changes you make should done one at a time and considered if they are working for you or not .

Not difficult to over tune your car right off the pace with guess's and experiments ....
I'm the only B4.1 in 13.5 I believe, no one that is faster than me, everyone else who is runs a 22, rb6, dex or schui. I have a good friend who is AE sponsored, but he runs mod and we have been working on setup, he runs slightly different, especially with tires, he prefers the harder JC compound, but I find that having a 8.5 in your gives you on power steering based on torque, my 13.5 isn't as harsh, but when I tend to free up the rear, so far it has always been too much. I have like 10 small to med changes to try still, just don't have the time. I have been able to make the a every time, and won one night, but there are still racers who can pull .5ths consistently over my times. (yes just better driving is a big part of that).
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Old 02-06-2013 | 11:31 AM
  #1322  
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My local track jumped the shark and went from a Clay indoor track to carpet. Does anybody have a good carpet set-up? I have the older B4.1 wc buggy. Also are there any must have upgrades to due to the B4.1 wc? Would Big Bore shocks be worth going to on carpet?
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Old 02-06-2013 | 12:46 PM
  #1323  
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Im currently running a shaved U brace with C hubs. Our track is low-med bite, if I wanted to try A hubs could I just use spacers instead of putting a new Shaved u brace?

Thanks,
Rocky

BTW Anyone tried 4 1.3?
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Old 02-06-2013 | 12:56 PM
  #1324  
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Originally Posted by Theroc
Im currently running a shaved U brace with C hubs. Our track is low-med bite, if I wanted to try A hubs could I just use spacers instead of putting a new Shaved u brace?

Thanks,
Rocky

BTW Anyone tried 4 1.3?
Yes you can. keep in mind that when the brace is shaved its a .060" difference which is a tad less then 2mm. i would start with 4mm and the long ball stud. You can break the u brace easier but if you just want to test with it its not really an issue.
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Old 02-06-2013 | 01:03 PM
  #1325  
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Originally Posted by Theroc
Im currently running a shaved U brace with C hubs. Our track is low-med bite, if I wanted to try A hubs could I just use spacers instead of putting a new Shaved u brace?

Thanks,
Rocky

BTW Anyone tried 4 1.3?
Suggest
stick with the C-hub as you need the traction , the A hub will have less grip ....
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Old 02-06-2013 | 01:13 PM
  #1326  
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I find the C hubs to be completely horrible on loose tracks. The one thing it does not do on loose tracks is give me traction. Unless by traction you mean fishtailing everywhere.
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Old 02-06-2013 | 01:18 PM
  #1327  
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Can somebody clear this up please? I thought the B4.2 came with Carbon C hubs but I see on the parts page its a Carbon A hub is that correct? And are most of you still running C hubs with big bores for indoor clay?
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Old 02-06-2013 | 01:20 PM
  #1328  
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got my mocked up esc plate waiting for amain to deliver my b4.2





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Old 02-06-2013 | 01:23 PM
  #1329  
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Originally Posted by chevmaro
Can somebody clear this up please? I thought the B4.2 came with Carbon C hubs but I see on the parts page its a Carbon A hub is that correct? And are most of you still running C hubs with big bores for indoor clay?
They come with A's. Our track is low to medium grip. I have used both A and C, and I prefer the A hubs myself.
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Old 02-06-2013 | 01:24 PM
  #1330  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
Man if only that was in English. Clear as mud. Are you only running 1.6s in the rear. so you have more or less washers in the rear with the 3 limiters? The car squared up better or worse with 2 vs 3 limiters.
Car squared up far better with 3 limiters. I run 1.6/green/27.5 ae oil. I can run more washers in the rear when running 3 limiters in the front. This adds infield traction. If I ran with 2 limiters, I found that I had to keep removing washers in the rear to gain ability to square up and exit a corner hard. Removing washers from the rear harmed infield traction. Because of this, I went back to 3 limiters in the front and more washers in the rear.

When I ran 2 limiters, I liked 0 or 1 washer with a shaved brace and a hubs the best. That is NUTS.

When I ran 3 limiters, I liked 2 washers on a shaved brace with the a hubs.

Even with zero washers in the rear, with 2 limiters in the front, the rear was still too willing to over-squat/roll coming out of a corner hard on power with lots of traction. Unfortunately, going up to the next stiffer spring, white, in my experience, at my track, makes the car suffer too much in other areas for consistency.

Makes me think 1.7s may be better in the rear with 35 oil.
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Old 02-06-2013 | 01:30 PM
  #1331  
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Has anyone tried the exotek rear hubs? i got hooked up with a pair last night and was wondering if anyone has any feedback.
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Old 02-06-2013 | 01:31 PM
  #1332  
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Originally Posted by chevmaro
Can somebody clear this up please? I thought the B4.2 came with Carbon C hubs but I see on the parts page its a Carbon A hub is that correct? And are most of you still running C hubs with big bores for indoor clay?
C-hub gives more grip & less roll , really good for smooth clay .

A hub performs best on bumpy , but has less grip . On really high traction or when using slicks A hubs are great ...

Not one better then the other , pick the one that fits your track conditions
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Old 02-06-2013 | 01:35 PM
  #1333  
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Originally Posted by Eli
Has anyone tried the exotek rear hubs? i got hooked up with a pair last night and was wondering if anyone has any feedback.
you let us know, lol. A guy at the track was telling me he loved them, but then again he didnt even know they were A Hubs......grain of salt
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Old 02-06-2013 | 01:51 PM
  #1334  
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Originally Posted by MikeXray
I had been running green fronts, but I'm finding that once I get past a certain spring rate the car doesn't jump well, where it doesn't absorb landings as well, and will jump crooked more often. I also found the same behavior with a black front in the middle upper tower hole. I have 1.6x32 and we have med-high bite on slicks. Its a shame because I kinda like the turning characteristics of the stiffer spring, which I will probably play with the link shims to see if I can replicate. I ended up with black/white from the brwn/grn I started with. I drove a friends rb6 though, and that car made me want my car to feel a lot different than it does
this is just a suggestion but my car i bought from a local associated driver and the car is on rails. About the same med to high bit track, running blacks in the front and whites in the rear with 1.7 frt and back and 35 front 30 rear. shock in upper inner hole and outer hole on arm in frt. rear upper inner and inner on arm.
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Old 02-06-2013 | 02:15 PM
  #1335  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
you let us know, lol. A guy at the track was telling me he loved them, but then again he didnt even know they were A Hubs......grain of salt
Theyre vertical ball stud so they could be whatever no? Btw, they're nice and keep the link away from rubbing the the springs
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