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Old 02-03-2013 | 02:24 PM
  #1156  
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From: RIP Frosty, Best Dog Ever
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Originally Posted by vito
do you see a bo bo lol
That it's a B4.1 and not a B4.2?

Other than the Steering links the only thing I notice is that bend in your sensor cable. That seems like a pretty drastic bend. I would find a way to reroute it as that much pressure won't be good for the already fragile cable.
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Old 02-03-2013 | 02:27 PM
  #1157  
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Originally Posted by Leodis
I'd take three of them. My vote would be for carbon fiber so I can avoid having a piece of metal near the battery posts.
Agreed on the carbon fiber since I run my bullets in the back and would be a little cautious of having a metal plate that close to them.
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Old 02-03-2013 | 02:29 PM
  #1158  
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Are you guys running the ESC centerline all running shorty packs? I still run a full length pack and wondered if the difference would even be noticeable.
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Old 02-03-2013 | 02:33 PM
  #1159  
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Originally Posted by Tony Vega
No they still rub. You need to mount the carbon tower on the backside of the hub carrier and use an ASC6277 ball stud and space it out with a 2mm spacer (ASC31326). It angles the camber link back slightly and there is no rubbing even under stress when the arm flexes.
I'm not finding the 2mm spacer that you're talking about with that part number. Will you double check the part number?
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Old 02-03-2013 | 02:33 PM
  #1160  
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Other than the rear camber link hitting the shock, what other problems are people having with the build?
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Old 02-03-2013 | 02:41 PM
  #1161  
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Originally Posted by Leodis
I'm not finding the 2mm spacer that you're talking about with that part number. Will you double check the part number?
You could try these:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...m-Washer-Set-6
Or find any 2mm washer, or double up a 1mm or some ball stud washers.
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Old 02-03-2013 | 02:49 PM
  #1162  
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
You could try these:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...m-Washer-Set-6
Or find any 2mm washer, or double up a 1mm or some ball stud washers.
Thanks. I noticed Cav didn't make that mod to his buggy. I wonder how he addressed the rubbing issue.
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Old 02-03-2013 | 02:51 PM
  #1163  
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cav gets free shocks......he just replaces them, lol
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Old 02-03-2013 | 02:54 PM
  #1164  
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What would be the best tool(s) for cutting up a t plate? I was thinking a box cutter and a little bit of dremeling would do the trick.
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Old 02-03-2013 | 03:02 PM
  #1165  
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use a table saw
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Old 02-03-2013 | 03:05 PM
  #1166  
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I wouldnt trust a box cutter that close to my fingers.....i would use a cut off wheel on the dremel and then a sanding drum to smooth it out.
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Old 02-03-2013 | 03:09 PM
  #1167  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
use a table saw
I don't have a table saw, but I do have a dremel saw. I think I'll screw the t plate onto some 2 x 4's and then go to town on it.
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Old 02-03-2013 | 03:11 PM
  #1168  
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
I wouldnt trust a box cutter that close to my fingers.....i would use a cut off wheel on the dremel and then a sanding drum to smooth it out.
Yeah, it would suck to tell the doctor you cut off your finger because you wanted your toy car to look like Cav's.
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Old 02-03-2013 | 03:39 PM
  #1169  
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Hey, you that likes to critique ones grammar. KNOCK IT OFF!

Don't be that guy who kills this thread for the rest of user community.
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Old 02-03-2013 | 04:04 PM
  #1170  
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Originally Posted by BLbound
IMHO I think hexes are a good thing. I've seen guys strip out the pin style rear rims, hexes eliminate that possibility.
Guess I've been lucky. I've stripped one truck wheel in the last 6-7 years of racing. My between heat maintenance includes making sure the rear wheels are tight. IMO, hexes just add weight.

Originally Posted by GizmoTLR
so u pretty much have a 4.1 with VTS, alum steering rack, and 1/2 of the BB shocks
I'm running 100% of the BB shocks. Just not the silly little blue aluminum ball mounts. I also am running the plastic rear hubs.

Basically I needed an entire new car. The shocks, slipper and steering rack is a bonus.
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