Cain, great advice on the motor! We run indoor and its more than enough. Lots of guys are running the 4600 and I CRINGE when I see them wind it up on the straight.........and then hit the wall. 4000 is more than enough in most cases. It works well with the Reventon Pro by Speed Passion. I have the ESC two weeks and I am amazed! Second week out I take TQ and the win in the A......ran half of the main with only two of three motor wires in place....one popped off! Talk about limping home. Rev Pro is about 130 direct and comes with the programming box and usb cable. Definitely a great investment.

Sal

hey, just to confirm you are able to use the Reventon Pro with the 4 pole motor, no issues? When I asked Solara about this, he flat out said it doesn't work. Can you post your experiences with the Reventon Pro on the Speed Passion Thread and what ever you do to use the Pro4 motors?

I use original 32p 62 tooth spur gear on my car, but what is the best pinion?
If i buy tenshock sc401 combo, which is the best motor: 4400kv or 5000kv

Well Guys,
Ran my truck for friday night races with all my upgrades and all I can say is Help!!!

First of all let me say that the RC Shox Center diff V.2 with 6 pins was a night and day difference compared to stock slipper set up with Garodisk. I was able to come out of the corner right into a triple and clear it with very little throttle. I had a local racer who's helped me out extensively tell me that I have more motor and speed than I need

Heres my problem I keep having the truck spin out on me around the corners and I've even slowed down alot to make them. I just end up spinning out anyway but thanks to the rc shox center diff I was able to quickly correct and keep going. When I'm on the straight my rear end is really twitchy and wants to swap with my front. I feel like I'm driving on ice. My truck was driveable before with stock 3.2 toe and stock rear hubs, if underpowered due to crappy v.1 slipper so I can only assume it has to be something to do with the recent changes to my set up with the new upgrades so heres what I've done hopefully someone can help me figure out what is going on.
I know that tires can make or break you. The tire of choice for the track is jconcepts barcodes green, which I used and still was spinning out, I switched to Jconcepts 3DS green and it helped a little, I also have jconcepts subcultures green but haven't tried them any recommendations? I'm running on hard packed dirt that gets watered.




Running white front sway bar and blue rear sway bar no roll overs so they're working
Yellow springs on front shocks, and front blue springs on rear
7000 front diff 5000 rear diff
-2 camber on front and -1 camber on rear so my tires make more contact with track
15t pinion 60t rc shox spur
castle 1410 sct esc

First off heres my attempt at the 8mm mod same set up as post #367
http://www.rcshortcourse.com/forum/t...10-4x4-19.html
10mm ballstud in center hole with 6mm of washers on the exotek hubs and 7mm on the shock tower 12mm ball stud mounted on inner hole. Camber turnbuckle looks nice and straight (parallel to a-arm)
What does switching to the outer or innermost hole on rear hubs do?



Well heres how I have the M2C toe block

http://www.rcshortcourse.com/forum/t...ion-sheet.html
According to the manual using the inserts with 2 notches with the white insert on the driver side and black insert on the passenger side will give me 3.5 toe with the notches on the bottom it gives me 0 squat if I flip the inserts upside down that will take my squat to -1.




So heres the good news. I missed my first qualifier as it started 10 minutes after arriving at hobbytown/hobbyPLEX due to buying and installing the washers on exotek hubs right when I got to racetrack.
I started in last place in 2nd qualifier and ended up in 4th sliding around on the corners. In the main I started 4th and was able to take second place and hold it for 4 laps and was about to take 1st when a losi hit me right as I was jumping the triple I went cartwheeling and my pinion came loose. Forgot to locktite it
My truck handled like it was on ice but the RCSHOX Center Diff gave me all the power and more I needed to make up for my spinning out around the corners
If my truck would only handle better and my pinion didn't come loose I'm pretty sure I would of taken 1st in the main. Not bad for a guy who has only run 5 race nights in the last 2 months and never raced before.
I'm racing today at 9am so any help would be appreciated.

4600kv will be better than 5200kv. I would rather go with 4000 than with 5200

ok. i buy 4400kv combo. What is the good battery, http://www.rcecho.com/2x-ZOP-Model-5...ery-CA201.html there is zop 5200 mah 30c 2s lipo.

Just to confirm, what was the setup you came from, and what is the setup exactly you put on that you are having issues with?

How would you describe your track conditions?

one thing about the M2C adjustment blocks, really give it an eyeball look and confirm that what you are seeing makes sense, I don't think the instructions are completely correct as when trying the .75 adjustments, the toe settings didn't look right in comparison to what they said to do.

So make sure what you are seeing "looks" right.

I've found that my truck felt better with the stock 3-2 block then the M2C @ 3.5, also I run 30wt in the front and 27.5wt in the rear with yellow springs. As for sway bars I really tried some different set-ups and found that for me the blue in the front and orange in the rear works awesome.

The tracks I run on are smooth hard packed clay (high bite) so my tire of choice is AKA wishbones (clay) or Rebars (clay). The 8mm mod for the rear camber link works "but" I went down to 4mm and found it to corner alot better, i'm going to try 6mm though.

The thing you have to remember is all the info on here is just a starting point, you have to find a set-up that works for you. That is what i've been doing for the last 2 weeks.

Track Conditions
40 degrees cold, wet, sticky, hard and as the day progresses the top layer will get softer. I'm going to run some barcodes that are bald in the middle but have treads on edges still since the track is so sticky right now. I will also be dropping my ride height to 21mm

I was running mainfields newest set up except
diff fluid 7000 front 5000 rear
yellow shocks in front blue front shocks on the rear
2.5mm washers front shock tower ball stud outer hole
exotek rear hubs 6mm washers ballstud in center hole
7mm washers on shock tower 12mm ball stud inner hole
Otherwise ride and height and everything else are the same.

I have no reference or enough experience to know if my toe blocks look to be properly placed sorry.

Will switch back to the stock 3.2 block in a couple races just to see if it fixes or alleviates some of my issues.

on high bite for sure I can see the 3.5 degree setting being not ideal personally.

For your +8mm mod, what did you notice when you went with it versus a stock setting? Also, how did it compare when the inner ball stud position was the same between +8mm and regular hub?

So you were not running the M2C block outside of the stock settings, correct?

I would suggest starting with the M2C 3.5 degrees setting, leaving the stock antisquat setting and see how that feels.

See how that feels first.

What pistons are you running, stock ones or RC Shox?

From there, depending on how it feels, I probably would play with rear ball stud height and maybe lighter rear shock spring next.

I only really noticed that my truck was less prone to traction rolling so guessing with the sway bars and 8mm mod that it has my truck running at a lower cg

sorry I put it in my original post I'm running the 3.5 setting but and I have flipped the inserts up so its running -1 squat my piston are stock pistons but my truck is jumping and landing fine the only issue it jumps nose high so I have to correct it in the air. I'm going to put 2 oz of weight in the front by servo to help bring the nose down and make the truck jump more balanced. I just had the track director who is one of the best if not the best driver here drive it. He said its a nice truck very nimble and has great steering and is very planted its just nose high on jumps. So after watching him run 3 laps perfectly, I'm sure 80% of my problem is being a noob

cool. Was this comparing stock hub height position but same inner ball stud height? From what I experienced when trying to correct traction rolling on carpet, raising the inner ball stud height cured it.

No worries I just wanted to make sure to know what you were seeing. Without having the truck anymore, wasn't sure seeing if there instructions were right since the angled seemed odd when trying the .75 settings. But thats great if it does work out.

well figured out why my pinion came off friday because it did today again, the grub screw threads are shot, it will tighten up but won't stay tight even with locktite. Finally got my truck handling nicely and the pinion comes off and in the process it shredded the teeth of my only center diff v.2 spur gear. Bought a new pinion and I have 2 new rc shox v.1 diff spurs can I get away running the the v.1 diff spur gear just swap out the v.2 and minus the loss of the pins everything else is the same?

Ae

Don't advise to use thread lock on the grub screw, only will make removing more difficult or even impossible...