You guys are aware that these are toys with plastic components right? If you expect plastic not to break in certain instances you may want to try a different hobby, or produce yourself aluminum arms. If you lose sleep over the nightmare of breaking an arm every blue moon then boil them. No need to give tekno a reputation of moderate plastic durability because an arm broke once. Their stuff is easily one of the best out there.

Fact: 7 lbs of pressure can break a collarbone in the right spot.

AGREED ! Nothing wrong with the Tekno plastics .......

Top notch!! Broke one arm off a huge jump! Would have obliterated ANYBODY'S arm!

Not sure why some get so defensive, I don't think anybody is trying to create a "reputation" for Tekno, or develope some "conspiracy". It is a DISCUSSION forum. Some of us discuss our first hand experiences, and everybody is free to draw their own conclusions. A large portion of this thread is people wanting to know how the car compares to others. Of course, they are all plastic toys and prone to break in general use, that is a given in this hobby. That being said, in MY OWN experience(and it seems I'm not the only one), these arms have broken considerably easier than the 2 other brands I have had, but overall the car performs better. The dicussion also continues with the effective resolutions to my own experiences.

As I have said previously, I love all my Tekno products, as I have MANY, and it is my opinion and experience that their stuff is among the highest quality and best design out there in this hobby, and no doubt that is partially due to listening to CUSTOMER FEEDBACK, especially since up until now most of their products were focused on improving other people's/company's cars/products. If they choose to try and improve on an already awesome car, more durable arms would be MY suggestion, based on MY experience(as an avid Tekno consumer) and probably my only suggestion. (other than a split center dif mount option
Enough beating a dead horse(for me anyway). If you choose not to acknowledge some other people's experiences so be it, turn a blind eye, ignorance is bliss.

You bring good info. I just have an issue when you say you think the arms break easier than two other brands. You may have broke an arm on a small hit that other cars have had before, but the break could also be related to a big crash previously that stressed the arm and you got away with it. Now if arms were breaking routinely then there would be an issue. There is just no way to compare beside a routine breaking instance, which there is none on the eb48. I've broke Losi arms and I expect to break these sometime, that's the nature. As you said, since boiling them you've had no problems. I recommend boiling them for piece of mind. It's so easy to do and minimal time, why not? But boiling should be done on anything 1/8 scale if you want that extra insurance.

This buggy is as durable as anything out.

If you boil plastic doesn't it make the plastic less rigid? which would equate to warped or bent plastic? I think I would rather have a broken arm and replace it then to have a warped a-arm which may be very difficult to tell. I don't have any knowledge in this area and could be wrong....maybe the boiling just makes them a little more flexible enough where they won't snap and don't effect the cars performance. I read in the forums tekno said they tested a bunch of different plastics and went on this because they wanted it rigid....guess it doesn't hurt to try.

Good points, in my case though, I broke the arm on what was basically the car's first crash ever, it was literally the first day it was driven, the first pack, the title of my video was "EB48 first run, broken arm". The second broken arm was on the second day I drove the car, and it still hadn't been crashed "hard"(yet). I have spent plenty of time cartwheeling and nosediving and casing stuff far worse than this car has seen(yet) without breaking arms.
The arm was not weakened by previous crashes.

Nothing wrong with boiling the arms. Over time, the plastic will absorb moisture from the air, boiling them simply speeds up the process.

After a month of waiting, it's finally here.









I gotta say, turnigy did a lot more attractive look to their packaging. Motor's build quality seems very good. Too bad i don't know when i'll be able to test it though.

Hi all
Anyone know when the 3rd production run is due by tekno!
Anymore updates for buggy!
Anymore option parts coming!

Thanks

Don't worry about it bro...This stuff happens to the best of us and that's just the way it is sometimes. I have to EB48 buggies, one for racing only and one for on-road and bashing. In six months time I have broken 4 front a-arms on my basher and 2 front a-arms on my racer. All of which were my fault except for one time on my racer it just broke off a small jump. Sometimes things just break because that's the name of the game. In my experience Tekno plastics are just as good if not better then what is currently available.

You're gonna run into Fan-Boys here and there that will flame you for saying blank blank blank, but who really cares what they have to say. Just pick up some new arms and throw them on and keep charging and don't let the Fan-Boys bother you. You have a great buggy, so enjoy it!

Thanks for the dose of sanity Grim

I'm current;y running the 2100 version of this motor and I love it. I turned the timing down to 0 (your's looks like it's there already) and it's been running super cool. I also like the fact that it uses an 8mm rotor shaft, ultra durable. I wish mine was red though, I got it when they were all silver.

Does anyone have a setup for clay ,med bite, rough track?

I heard the 2100 would be a little over kill for my tastes. After doing a lot of reading, i found that 1900-2050Kv is the sweet spot in a buggy. For my medium sized outdoor track, 1900 on 4s should be plenty. Temps should be more reasonable as well. One of the other members on here (MattP) runs both the 2100, and the 1900 turnigy's. He said he ran the 1900 turnigy (the one i have), and his 1900 tekin back to back, and he couldn't tell a difference at all. What gearing should i start at? I was thinking 17T pinion.