What wheels are you using?

Pro-Line and AKA wheels have both worked fine for me.

-Kane

I have tried Ofna , Losi , AKA , HotBodies , AE , Proline , and some JQ wheels and all fit with no problems ....

Will take a look when I get home and let you know. My guess is HPI but I'm unsure.

I'm no expert but I can give you some of my thoughts.

I'm running the stock diff fluids---7-5-3 seems to work really well for the track i'm presently running on.

Easier options would be to go down a little in rear shock fluid--try 30 vs 35, this will make the shock more plush/soft & therefore should help . You can also try moving the shock location--ie move the top of the shock in one hole or two--this can aid in providing a little more traction.

i'm using Panther's Geko tires. too bad it's now rare to be found . not sure if you could find any if there's some left here or there because it's no longer available at major online stores.
it gives the best in between for on and off roading.
recently i bought the proline badlands, but if you're looking for tires simillar to the Panther's Geko i would recommanede the HB Proto.

i just uploaded the pic to my album here in the forum. not sure how to post it though.
if this link works please let me know. if not advise how to attach my albums pic here. sorry for the delay.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...ock-spure.html

showed up. looking forward to hearing how well it fits for you.

A smaller rear sway-bar will help also, and they are cheap enough to get all of them from Tekno.

I just wanted to share some things I learned about this buggy this weekend. I was racing in the CRCRC Midwest championship this last weekend and the previous. The first weekend was electric and the track was like a giant fly paper. My car seemed to love it. The second weekend was nitro where things got crazy. The track dried out completely and was way looser than I had ever seen. I was lost. I kept making changes only to still seem to have no traction. Then before the mains, I tried something just for the heck of it. I sanded down the hubs so that I could glue some lead weights to them. Wow did this make a difference. I only had 1/4 ounce on each front spindle, and 1/2 ounce on each rear hub. This seemed to make all the difference in the world. Has anyone else experimented with this? BTW I just got the car a month or so ago, and have not ever run it outdoors so I am wondering if traction is always an issue with this car?

I run on low grip, bumpy outdoor tracks and traction is never an issue.

I found dropping to 35 front 30 rear oils and 5 5 1 diff oils really locked the back in for me, at least it did this weekend and previous to that I was running 5 7 3. I'm also running minimum antisquat, and the shocks layed over in the back- flip flopped stock sway bars (smaller in rear). Setup for max rear toe.

Everything else stock except white durango rear springs (harder).

you could also start by dropping the middle fluid first and go from there. For loose stuff usually go down in the front and middle diff oil weights on other vehicles, could be similar here.

I changed the shock oil for the first time on the front shocks. I think I've put 12 or so packs through the car so far so felt it was time. Plus I wanted to check to make sure there were no issues. The caps were dirty on the inside and the bladders had dirt on top of them. I fully expected the oil to be dirty as well. However, the oil was still clean. The dirt must have gotten in via the bleeder hole on the caps and then collected above the bladders.

There is a pin-sized hole on the inside of the caps. It is right in the center. Does that serve a purpose?

It's a vent to keep the shock more consistent. You can put some glue in there to cover it up and it will act like a normal cap. The vents make it easier to get zero rebound in the shocks and make them more consistent but not necessarily 'better' for every track condition though. A 'bleeder' cap (just the side hole) will have more rebound since the air above the bladder doesn't have anywhere to go.

Whats the general consensus on how often to change fluid in the diffs?
and
Can you just change the fluids and gasket or do you have to replace o-ring seals also?

Thanks