The AE FActory Team B44.2 Thread
#2296
I think you guys may have helped me, my car has two washers all around front and rear.... it is a b4.1 but I think my issue is low speed pushing on exit also. Going to try to remove a washer starting in rear moving to front one at a time and see how it does tonight. Thanks.
#2297
I think you guys may have helped me, my car has two washers all around front and rear.... it is a b4.1 but I think my issue is low speed pushing on exit also. Going to try to remove a washer starting in rear moving to front one at a time and see how it does tonight. Thanks.
By far the best set up of any at our track.
#2298
Harlan - You can do the following to get a basic feel.
Set the car down rest your forearms on both the front and the rear and then with your radio in hand yank the throttle for a split second. If you here a bark then your diff is slipping and you'll want to back off some. If you here more of a wine then your slipper is doing it's job and you can go from there. I think I did a demo a few weeks back. The other day when I looked at your slipper you have about 5 threads showing. I've found the width of a red shock oring for starters which is around 1.5m from the cup to the back of the adujster nut is a good starting point. This is making some assumuptions that your diffs are in good shape and broken in.
Hope this helps,
Mark
Set the car down rest your forearms on both the front and the rear and then with your radio in hand yank the throttle for a split second. If you here a bark then your diff is slipping and you'll want to back off some. If you here more of a wine then your slipper is doing it's job and you can go from there. I think I did a demo a few weeks back. The other day when I looked at your slipper you have about 5 threads showing. I've found the width of a red shock oring for starters which is around 1.5m from the cup to the back of the adujster nut is a good starting point. This is making some assumuptions that your diffs are in good shape and broken in.
Hope this helps,
Mark
He ran a battery through my buggy and thought the overall set up was very good but suggested a few changes to keep the rear end more planted under hard acceleration through the chicane. He said to change the camber link to the position A and to add a 2mm spacer under the ballstud. In addition he said increasing the rear toe would help it track straighter through the triple double.
What are your thoughts on these suggestions. Anyone else have an opinion?
Thanks!
#2301
I have officially finished reading all 2300 posts in this topic! I have owned my 44.2 for about a week, raced it once & have 6 packs through it. Now it's time to make some minor changes to try & get rid of the push I have in the corners under power.
I definitely need more track time with the car, but those damn Dingos make time on me in the tight sections because I have to slow down too much.
I definitely need more track time with the car, but those damn Dingos make time on me in the tight sections because I have to slow down too much.
#2302
You seem to be very knowledgeable. Do you have any input on my post above?
Thanks in advance.
#2303
For what it's worth, the receiver your running is DSM and not DSM2. The 3520 you linked to is DSM2 though. Personally, I think you'd be better off with the 3520. That said, the referenced 300 will work on a DSM2 radio. It's the same thing as running the 3500 RX (DSM) with a DSM2 TX (IE: the Spektrum Pro TXs).
DSM2 transmitters will work with either DSM or DSM2 receivers. But a DSM transmitter will only work with a DSM receiver.
I've had great success with the OrangeRx GR300 RX units (micro, DSM2 receiver): http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=23784
Cheap, fully functional!
DSM2 transmitters will work with either DSM or DSM2 receivers. But a DSM transmitter will only work with a DSM receiver.
I've had great success with the OrangeRx GR300 RX units (micro, DSM2 receiver): http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=23784
Cheap, fully functional!
#2304
I have officially finished reading all 2300 posts in this topic! I have owned my 44.2 for about a week, raced it once & have 6 packs through it. Now it's time to make some minor changes to try & get rid of the push I have in the corners under power.
I definitely need more track time with the car, but those damn Dingos make time on me in the tight sections because I have to slow down too much.
I definitely need more track time with the car, but those damn Dingos make time on me in the tight sections because I have to slow down too much.
Try moving your hubs back
And are the tires the ones the fast guys have
#2305
#2306
I have officially finished reading all 2300 posts in this topic! I have owned my 44.2 for about a week, raced it once & have 6 packs through it. Now it's time to make some minor changes to try & get rid of the push I have in the corners under power.
I definitely need more track time with the car, but those damn Dingos make time on me in the tight sections because I have to slow down too much.
I definitely need more track time with the car, but those damn Dingos make time on me in the tight sections because I have to slow down too much.
Diff settings.??
Front toe.
Tires/inserts and track condition.
We may be able to help if you can give us the current set up. Detailed set up.
Its the hardest thing to do on the net to really dial ya in. But the more we know we may be able to find some thing in your set up. The best advise any one can give is to hook up with a .2 racer at the track.
#2307
1. Rigors wiring.. definitely going in my final kit. I will point out why to. Raz does his the same way, BTW
2. Have to buy stuff. 5 bucks worth of ball cups. Man that's pennies compared to most kits. And I am sure the future kits will be revised on that issue.
3. Where to shim. Still waiting on some feed back there. Others on here are going to try it as well as my self. So its all just time. I am starting my last kit in a couple of weeks. Maybe sooner.
4. Tips on the front C-hubs.
5. Diff build. I have tortured this kit from day one with a 4.5. If anyone ever says these diffs are weak! Don't know diddly about building them or are running way to much brake. There are some options in the diffs I think we don't consider when we build them.
The list goes on. I am also working on some options. But they can cost some pre-purchases. But worth doing.
I am going to put it in pages so we can just link to it by page according to the manual. In short all the input will be from everyone on this thread.
#2308
When I come into a tight turn, I usually roll into it & try not to brake if I can. It seems the Dingo's are able to get back into the throttle sooner than me in the apex / exit of the turn.
As far as the tires the fast guys are using - this track is a week old. It's a brand new facility & everyone is trying to find out what works best right now. Along with this new track, are a few new classes, which includes 1/10 4x4 mod buggy, so everyone is is about in the same boat playing with setup.
I have a set of AKA Rebars, super soft front & clay rear with AKA CC foams & a set of Suburbs with those big fat proline open cell foams. Keep in mind, I only have 5 packs through this car & haven't played with it much, but the setup is completely box stock to the T, with the exception of 32.5 oil in the rear. Diff's were snugged up, then backed off about an 1/8 of a turn & broken in properly, slipper is set pretty tight, as that is what I'm used to on my 4x4 SC truck & I am not running any ballast. I did try both sets of tires & I ended up using the Suburb rears & Rebar fronts for my race. I am racing again tomorrow & will be going to the track early to play with setup
I've been racing for 15 years on & off, so I'm pretty capable of figuring this thing out sooner or later, but I have to admit, I've never had a 4x4 with ball diffs -school me!!
Track conditions are moist & tacky for the most part. It did dry out a little on the one race I ran, but never got dusty & bite remained pretty good throughout the night.
On a side note, I just ordered a set of AKA Vektors. Anyone have any experience with these tires? Thoughts?
As far as the tires the fast guys are using - this track is a week old. It's a brand new facility & everyone is trying to find out what works best right now. Along with this new track, are a few new classes, which includes 1/10 4x4 mod buggy, so everyone is is about in the same boat playing with setup.
I have a set of AKA Rebars, super soft front & clay rear with AKA CC foams & a set of Suburbs with those big fat proline open cell foams. Keep in mind, I only have 5 packs through this car & haven't played with it much, but the setup is completely box stock to the T, with the exception of 32.5 oil in the rear. Diff's were snugged up, then backed off about an 1/8 of a turn & broken in properly, slipper is set pretty tight, as that is what I'm used to on my 4x4 SC truck & I am not running any ballast. I did try both sets of tires & I ended up using the Suburb rears & Rebar fronts for my race. I am racing again tomorrow & will be going to the track early to play with setup
I've been racing for 15 years on & off, so I'm pretty capable of figuring this thing out sooner or later, but I have to admit, I've never had a 4x4 with ball diffs -school me!!
Track conditions are moist & tacky for the most part. It did dry out a little on the one race I ran, but never got dusty & bite remained pretty good throughout the night.
On a side note, I just ordered a set of AKA Vektors. Anyone have any experience with these tires? Thoughts?
#2309
#2310



