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Old 01-18-2013 | 02:15 PM
  #2296  
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Originally Posted by Razathorn
I was going for contact patch and forward bite myself. Context is low speed corner when starting to try and apply throttle. That's when it comes around for me, and that's what zero washers makes better.
I think you guys may have helped me, my car has two washers all around front and rear.... it is a b4.1 but I think my issue is low speed pushing on exit also. Going to try to remove a washer starting in rear moving to front one at a time and see how it does tonight. Thanks.
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Old 01-18-2013 | 03:25 PM
  #2297  
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Originally Posted by Cridd
I think you guys may have helped me, my car has two washers all around front and rear.... it is a b4.1 but I think my issue is low speed pushing on exit also. Going to try to remove a washer starting in rear moving to front one at a time and see how it does tonight. Thanks.
You need to hook up with RAZ. His B4.1 is by far the most dialed on our track. I want to say our track is small 60' straight with med. bite. I have seen him get out drive'd but not by much. He and his B4.1 are lethal.... By far the best set up of any at our track.
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Old 01-18-2013 | 03:51 PM
  #2298  
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Originally Posted by munrath
Harlan - You can do the following to get a basic feel.
Set the car down rest your forearms on both the front and the rear and then with your radio in hand yank the throttle for a split second. If you here a bark then your diff is slipping and you'll want to back off some. If you here more of a wine then your slipper is doing it's job and you can go from there. I think I did a demo a few weeks back. The other day when I looked at your slipper you have about 5 threads showing. I've found the width of a red shock oring for starters which is around 1.5m from the cup to the back of the adujster nut is a good starting point. This is making some assumuptions that your diffs are in good shape and broken in.

Hope this helps,
Mark
Thanks Mark. I measured that space from when you adjusted it the other day as a datum. Good stuff thanks. On another note, there was a guy at the track today who ran an 18.6 and a bunch of 18.7's (ebuggy).

He ran a battery through my buggy and thought the overall set up was very good but suggested a few changes to keep the rear end more planted under hard acceleration through the chicane. He said to change the camber link to the position A and to add a 2mm spacer under the ballstud. In addition he said increasing the rear toe would help it track straighter through the triple double.

What are your thoughts on these suggestions. Anyone else have an opinion?

Thanks!
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Old 01-18-2013 | 04:03 PM
  #2299  
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Double post
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Old 01-18-2013 | 04:14 PM
  #2300  
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You should NEVER bark your diff. Ever. After it is barked a few times, its garbage and needs a rebuild, at least that's how I feel about it.
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Old 01-18-2013 | 04:15 PM
  #2301  
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I have officially finished reading all 2300 posts in this topic! I have owned my 44.2 for about a week, raced it once & have 6 packs through it. Now it's time to make some minor changes to try & get rid of the push I have in the corners under power.
I definitely need more track time with the car, but those damn Dingos make time on me in the tight sections because I have to slow down too much.
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Old 01-18-2013 | 04:34 PM
  #2302  
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Originally Posted by Razathorn
You should NEVER bark your diff. Ever. After it is barked a few times, its garbage and needs a rebuild, at least that's how I feel about it.
I'm pretty sure despite writting "diff" he meant slipper.

You seem to be very knowledgeable. Do you have any input on my post above?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-18-2013 | 06:45 PM
  #2303  
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Originally Posted by goehm
For what it's worth, the receiver your running is DSM and not DSM2. The 3520 you linked to is DSM2 though. Personally, I think you'd be better off with the 3520. That said, the referenced 300 will work on a DSM2 radio. It's the same thing as running the 3500 RX (DSM) with a DSM2 TX (IE: the Spektrum Pro TXs).

DSM2 transmitters will work with either DSM or DSM2 receivers. But a DSM transmitter will only work with a DSM receiver.

I've had great success with the OrangeRx GR300 RX units (micro, DSM2 receiver): http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=23784

Cheap, fully functional!
Just wanted to say thanx again. I saved 270 bucks. There shipped today. Looks like in a few days I will get to test them out. I sure appreciate it.....
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Old 01-18-2013 | 06:45 PM
  #2304  
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Originally Posted by prdmetalworks
I have officially finished reading all 2300 posts in this topic! I have owned my 44.2 for about a week, raced it once & have 6 packs through it. Now it's time to make some minor changes to try & get rid of the push I have in the corners under power.
I definitely need more track time with the car, but those damn Dingos make time on me in the tight sections because I have to slow down too much.
Try the forward Ackerman hole on the steering rack
Try moving your hubs back
And are the tires the ones the fast guys have
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Old 01-18-2013 | 06:50 PM
  #2305  
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Originally Posted by UN4RACING
Just wanted to say thanx again. I saved 270 bucks. There shipped today. Looks like in a few days I will get to test them out. I sure appreciate it.....
While you're thanking others, I want to thank you for your continued contributions....Thanks!
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Old 01-18-2013 | 06:53 PM
  #2306  
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Originally Posted by prdmetalworks
I have officially finished reading all 2300 posts in this topic! I have owned my 44.2 for about a week, raced it once & have 6 packs through it. Now it's time to make some minor changes to try & get rid of the push I have in the corners under power.
I definitely need more track time with the car, but those damn Dingos make time on me in the tight sections because I have to slow down too much.
When you say on power push. Into the turn or out? I'm thinking you mean off power in the apex?
Diff settings.??
Front toe.
Tires/inserts and track condition.

We may be able to help if you can give us the current set up. Detailed set up.
Its the hardest thing to do on the net to really dial ya in. But the more we know we may be able to find some thing in your set up. The best advise any one can give is to hook up with a .2 racer at the track.
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Old 01-18-2013 | 07:43 PM
  #2307  
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Originally Posted by thebomber
While you're thanking others, I want to thank you for your continued contributions....Thanks!
I should thank you guys. Its fun to tell ya the truth. I feed off you guys and try to address any issues as I go threw this kit myself. It takes a few kits before I can just build it with my eyes closed. My dang work has been demanding lately, so its tough to really get to the serious stuff. I am working on getting a tripod for my phone. One handed just wont cut it. My hope is to get this next kit all on vid. I was thinking page by page. Pointers are good to read but when you can see things at the same time we are able to get better ideas of what we are posting and ways we as individuals want to do things as we build it/rebuild it. I have been taking notes. Well things I think really should be thought through any hoot.

1. Rigors wiring.. definitely going in my final kit. I will point out why to. Raz does his the same way, BTW
2. Have to buy stuff. 5 bucks worth of ball cups. Man that's pennies compared to most kits. And I am sure the future kits will be revised on that issue.
3. Where to shim. Still waiting on some feed back there. Others on here are going to try it as well as my self. So its all just time. I am starting my last kit in a couple of weeks. Maybe sooner.
4. Tips on the front C-hubs.
5. Diff build. I have tortured this kit from day one with a 4.5. If anyone ever says these diffs are weak! Don't know diddly about building them or are running way to much brake. There are some options in the diffs I think we don't consider when we build them.

The list goes on. I am also working on some options. But they can cost some pre-purchases. But worth doing.
I am going to put it in pages so we can just link to it by page according to the manual. In short all the input will be from everyone on this thread.
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Old 01-18-2013 | 07:45 PM
  #2308  
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When I come into a tight turn, I usually roll into it & try not to brake if I can. It seems the Dingo's are able to get back into the throttle sooner than me in the apex / exit of the turn.

As far as the tires the fast guys are using - this track is a week old. It's a brand new facility & everyone is trying to find out what works best right now. Along with this new track, are a few new classes, which includes 1/10 4x4 mod buggy, so everyone is is about in the same boat playing with setup.

I have a set of AKA Rebars, super soft front & clay rear with AKA CC foams & a set of Suburbs with those big fat proline open cell foams. Keep in mind, I only have 5 packs through this car & haven't played with it much, but the setup is completely box stock to the T, with the exception of 32.5 oil in the rear. Diff's were snugged up, then backed off about an 1/8 of a turn & broken in properly, slipper is set pretty tight, as that is what I'm used to on my 4x4 SC truck & I am not running any ballast. I did try both sets of tires & I ended up using the Suburb rears & Rebar fronts for my race. I am racing again tomorrow & will be going to the track early to play with setup

I've been racing for 15 years on & off, so I'm pretty capable of figuring this thing out sooner or later, but I have to admit, I've never had a 4x4 with ball diffs -school me!!

Track conditions are moist & tacky for the most part. It did dry out a little on the one race I ran, but never got dusty & bite remained pretty good throughout the night.

On a side note, I just ordered a set of AKA Vektors. Anyone have any experience with these tires? Thoughts?
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Old 01-18-2013 | 07:46 PM
  #2309  
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Originally Posted by ryanpatrickgore
Try the forward Ackerman hole on the steering rack
Try moving your hubs back
And are the tires the ones the fast guys have
Dude!!! Simple, sweet spot on info. Right on.... You ROCK!.....
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Old 01-18-2013 | 08:03 PM
  #2310  
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Originally Posted by UN4RACING
Just wanted to say thanx again. I saved 270 bucks. There shipped today. Looks like in a few days I will get to test them out. I sure appreciate it.....
Anytime. I don't think I saved you any money though. I just helped you get $270 in tires! LOL
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