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The AE FActory Team B44.2 Thread

The AE FActory Team B44.2 Thread

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Old 01-01-2013, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by njnewc View Post
Thanks rigor ur a swell fella.
I know. I do my best

Have fun with your 44.2 ; it's a blast
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Old 01-01-2013, 03:16 PM
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Thanks man. I assure u iam far from lazy. But def impatient. Ha. I have like 12 windows open looking for stuff for this. Anything I should get before the build. I already have the rpm cups. Running tekin rs pro with a gen 2 7.5. 1015 servo.
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Old 01-01-2013, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by njnewc View Post
Thanks man. I assure u iam far from lazy. But def impatient. Ha. I have like 12 windows open looking for stuff for this. Anything I should get before the build. I already have the rpm cups. Running tekin rs pro with a gen 2 7.5. 1015 servo.
If your running RPM extra turnbuckles lol
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Old 01-01-2013, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by goehm View Post
Do the TLR22 wheels fit on the rear of this buggy? I have a 22, and have a B44.2 on order.. trying to figure out if I need to buy all new wheelsets, or if I just need to buy the fronts for the B44.2.

Thanks in advance.
Just to followup with my query, based on some searches on the net and in the B44.1 forum, the TLR22 and B44/B4 rear wheels are all compatible.
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Old 01-01-2013, 05:42 PM
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Hey everyone, thanks for the driving tips. Looks like I'm on the right path. I've been dialing out more and more brake.
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Old 01-01-2013, 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by PFKAOG View Post
How's this for clean?


Looks pretty good to me and all the weight is as far back as possible. Rigor runs his over the top so battery change is one step faster. He does not have to unplug the battery to replace it. And he wont have to pull the slipper assy. past any wires which is quicker if he has to pull the slipper. I do mine the same way you do.....

BTW the carbon sticker looks awesome. You should put some on the battery hold down....
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Old 01-01-2013, 05:53 PM
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Clean is tuff on a44.


I put some servo tape down 1st. Stick my wires to it then I put some over the wires. Keeps them from flopping all over. I could take more time I guess. I do have some fancy clips I could use which may be cleaner.


Its all hidden once the motor is on anyway.
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Old 01-01-2013, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by UN4RACING View Post
Rigor runs his over the top so battery change is one step faster. He does not have to unplug the battery to replace it. And he wont have to pull the slipper assy. past any wires which is quicker if he has to pull the slipper.
Exactly. Not that I generally need to pull the slipper often, but I don't want to have to bust out a soldering iron in the event I need to change spur, pads, etc. Also gives easier access to the slipper nut adjustment.
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Old 01-01-2013, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by UN4RACING View Post
Clean is tuff on a44.

I put some servo tape down 1st. Stick my wires to it then I put some over the wires. Keeps them from flopping all over. I could take more time I guess. I do have some fancy clips I could use which may be cleaner.

Its all hidden once the motor is on anyway.
Heat shrink / route all wires together, then a little dab of CA glue on the tip of a razor blade, pin it down to the chassis. This keeps dust / dirt from accumulating on servo tape too. It can super clean if you have the right stuff, and want to take the time and effort. Most of ours I've seen are good enough
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Old 01-01-2013, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by rigor View Post
Exactly. Not that I generally need to pull the slipper often, but I don't want to have to bust out a soldering iron in the event I need to change spur, pads, etc. Also gives easier access to the slipper nut adjustment.
Actually you can just push the wire forward without un-soldering. I can appreciate why you do it that way just the same. Definitely easier..
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Old 01-01-2013, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by rigor View Post
Heat shrink / route all wires together, then a little dab of CA glue on the tip of a razor blade, pin it down to the chassis. This keeps dust / dirt from accumulating on servo tape too. It can super clean if you have the right stuff, and want to take the time and effort. Most of ours I've seen are good enough
Yeah that would be less work probably... I will get some pics up of another way I have been thinking of doing it. I will go ahead and do it to show the difference. I am taking my sweet time on this kit anyway. Wont run it till Saturday and all that's left is gluing tires and rattling the lid, so I have the time.
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Old 01-01-2013, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by UN4RACING View Post
Actually you can just push the wire forward without un-soldering. I can appreciate why you do it that way just the same. Definitely easier..
I dont know what batteries you guys are running but my saddles packs are connected by a jumper wire with bullet connectors. To take the pack out just take one side out and unplug the bullet and then the other side comes out.
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Old 01-01-2013, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by goehm View Post
Just to followup with my query, based on some searches on the net and in the B44.1 forum, the TLR22 and B44/B4 rear wheels are all compatible.
TLR 22 wheels on b4/44 are fine. Certain b4/b44 wheels on the TLR don't fit right though. Not wide enough at the axle and leaves a gap.
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Old 01-01-2013, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by PFKAOG View Post
I dont know what batteries you guys are running but my saddles packs are connected by a jumper wire with bullet connectors. To take the pack out just take one side out and unplug the bullet and then the other side comes out.
All the same... there is no other way. All saddle packs will need a jumper between the 2 cells.
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Old 01-01-2013, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by PFKAOG View Post
I dont know what batteries you guys are running but my saddles packs are connected by a jumper wire with bullet connectors. To take the pack out just take one side out and unplug the bullet and then the other side comes out.
Were talking about the motor wires from the esc. He runs his forward. It makes it easier to pull the slipper...
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