Can someone post a pic of the big bores mounted. I just want to make sure my dremel work is accurate. Thanks

With or without the 4th hole drilled

Both?

I don't have the 4th hole but ill take a picture when I'm home

Bob, like you I think the truck is like driving a land yacht. I would have quit on this truck a long time ago if not for my daughter. She likes this truck, so I am making every effort to make it the best I can for her (she is 8 today). I started off with cavs nats setup. And made adjustments from there. For me, most of the work is in the shocks on body mounts. I went with blues up front also, but used #3 pistons and 35wt oil, while in the rear I went green springs, #2 pistons with 27.5 oil. For limiters I went 5 front and 3 rear. I tried mounting the body a little higher for here, because the body required it. I bought the body used and have no idea on the make/model. But it has "Hello Kitty" on it, so I have to use it. The more i lowered it, the better it felt. I still hate that body and feel like even the rtr body is way better, but what can I do, lol. Wit hthe RTR or Proline body I run the same mounting holes at cav's nats setup.

Also, 3oz behind the battery is nice. Seems like a lot, but it calms the truck down.

The Paul Wynn set up on high bite clay is so Dialed! I actually like running this truck again.

THIS ONE?

I have heard his setups are easy to drive hard so I may try it out.

PW setup with the front and rear sway bars? That is what I am looking for is the JC swaybars for the front. Cannot wait until they come out.

I have yet to race my truck on high bite smooth clay, I'm thinking I'd probably like it even more.

It was a triple, but I made it no problem without even sliding or flipping over. It just landed and stopped.

This is my second season racing it so it must have just gotten weak over time. When I first started racing last season I wasn't very good and would wreck a lot (broke a lot of the normal stuff), but never broke the chassis. I've gotten good enough now to where I make the A-main regularly out of 30 to 40 cars. Last Friday I placed third out of 30.

I did however make a change to the placement of the ESC and receiver to try and distribute the weight differently (just to see any benefits). As you can see from the picture the receiver is on the servo and I made a carbon fiber plate that bolts to the bottom of the rear shock tower for the ESC. I did sense that there wasn't as much body role.

Has anybody tried doing this before?

I was reading the discussion about adding weight that's back a few pages (on p ~156). I notice most setup sheets and many people here mention putting 3 oz behind the battery. But most/all of those setup sheets and people are running mod (well, higher kV than a 17.5). All this to ask:

Anyone here running this much weight behind the battery with 17.5 blinky? Any other suggestions (indoor track, high grip clay) for a good starting point? Obviously, I'll try some options myself, but just want to get some feedback from some experienced blinky drivers.

I made an executive decision... the SC10 will be converted to T4.2

i dont run any weight in the back,havent really needed to,i run on a med bite indoor track with my battery forward,i have weight in the triangles and next to the reciever but thats it.truck is good just dives alittle to much so im adding limiters for that.Sc is a truck you just have to learn to drive smooth and keep momentum which im learning every lap

LOL....mine did.

Speaking of these trucks handling like land yachts and having large clunky bodies....

What are some of the best ways to quite the body rattle besides foam washers stuck on the body? Any neat tricks out there?...