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Old 01-08-2013 | 10:50 PM
  #27106  
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I've gotten my car to work with both Cs and As but I prefer the As. This is on indoor 100% clay.
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Old 01-08-2013 | 10:59 PM
  #27107  
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Originally Posted by BIGSKI15
I got them for the sole purpose of easy removal. I finger tighten them and break them loose with my wheel nut driver.
I used the +8mm battery brace on the shorter chassis so my brace was bent when I tightened down the nuts. Thats why I never locked it down fully in case of breaking it. I guess either way they come out to the same price. Just get another 2 spares
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Old 01-08-2013 | 11:40 PM
  #27108  
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Originally Posted by Kellen Guthrie
I've gotten my car to work with both Cs and As but I prefer the As. This is on indoor 100% clay.
I take it there's a lot of corner traction?
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Old 01-08-2013 | 11:56 PM
  #27109  
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Originally Posted by Razathorn
I take it there's a lot of corner traction?
Yeah it's very high bite. When the track is in the correct condition you can get away with running slicks.
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Old 01-09-2013 | 12:02 AM
  #27110  
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At TRCR we almost always use the C-hubs .


We sometimes go back to the A hub to help free up the car on very high traction conditions...
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Old 01-09-2013 | 05:37 AM
  #27111  
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On the front shock tower what does adding or removing ball stud washers affect?
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Old 01-09-2013 | 06:39 AM
  #27112  
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Originally Posted by Venom1836
On the front shock tower what does adding or removing ball stud washers affect?
This is from "the guide" which I will link below

Lowering the front link on the tower will increase steering into the corner, but can also make the car flip over easier, specially while cornering. Raising the front link on the tower will make the car more stable, less steering into the corner. Going too high, may make it hook suddenly as the car slows down as the car is negotiating the corner

Source
http://jq-products.com/team-reports/.../160-the-guide
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Old 01-09-2013 | 08:00 AM
  #27113  
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sooooo. I was gluing up tires last night and decided to try a new tire glue.....Well all I can say is Duratrax (i know) tire glues is trash. After 2 hours it still had not set. I could still pull the bead apart. I even put some on my finger and pressed my thumb against it for a couple seconds and nothing.... I think they sent me water in a bottle. I woke up this morning and the glue looks like it "might" have finally set. The temp in the garage is probably around 60 deg maybe a little less. Could the temp be the issue? I used a heat gun to warm up the rims and tires before I glued... I even tried to used the heat gun to try and make it set quicker.

Anyway, I was unable to find the glue I normally use and this stuff is crap. Tower hobbies is offering me a credit or another bottle of glue. I am trying to see if they will "upgrade" my glue. Anyone have any favorites? I want something that will fully set is 30-45 minutes. Probably a medium viscosity. I have been using thin for a while because I felt like it seeped into the bead better, but I am reading that medium is the best to glue with. So, any recommendations?
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Old 01-09-2013 | 08:07 AM
  #27114  
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I like proline and AKA glue. There is another one I am trying to recall that was excellent but escapes me right now, it was not a big name brand but worked great.

The HPI stuff works well, but, I am not a fan of how thin it is as I like a the slightly thicker stuff so it doesn't run all over the place. But if you like the thin stuff, I have had good luck with it.
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Old 01-09-2013 | 08:10 AM
  #27115  
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Been using LOSI medium for years, sets in about 15 minutes, if you get a can of CA "kicker" it sets up in seconds.
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Old 01-09-2013 | 08:11 AM
  #27116  
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Locktite liquid professional contact cement. Found at lowes or homedepot in a blue bottle. Works great. Cheaper and holds better than any ca I have ever used. I never prep tires and I have yet to have a tire pull from the rim.
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Old 01-09-2013 | 08:22 AM
  #27117  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
sooooo. I was gluing up tires last night and decided to try a new tire glue.....Well all I can say is Duratrax (i know) tire glues is trash. After 2 hours it still had not set. I could still pull the bead apart. I even put some on my finger and pressed my thumb against it for a couple seconds and nothing.... I think they sent me water in a bottle. I woke up this morning and the glue looks like it "might" have finally set. The temp in the garage is probably around 60 deg maybe a little less. Could the temp be the issue? I used a heat gun to warm up the rims and tires before I glued... I even tried to used the heat gun to try and make it set quicker.

Anyway, I was unable to find the glue I normally use and this stuff is crap. Tower hobbies is offering me a credit or another bottle of glue. I am trying to see if they will "upgrade" my glue. Anyone have any favorites? I want something that will fully set is 30-45 minutes. Probably a medium viscosity. I have been using thin for a while because I felt like it seeped into the bead better, but I am reading that medium is the best to glue with. So, any recommendations?
AKA glue works fantastic out here (thanks little Tom). You should have no problem finding it down in Tuscon. If it takes a long time to go through a bottle keep it in your fridge.
(Thanks Chance and sorry for ruining you Saturday)

Last edited by Lance Tanner; 01-09-2013 at 08:43 AM.
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Old 01-09-2013 | 08:25 AM
  #27118  
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I use the Loctite from Homedepot that comes in a clearish bottle with a blue lid. Been using it for about a year on 1/8 tires and with minimal prep I have not had one tire come unglued.
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Old 01-09-2013 | 08:34 AM
  #27119  
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1/8 th scale is the true test for tires
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Old 01-09-2013 | 08:38 AM
  #27120  
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yeah it is. I used to run 8th scale. That is where I learned I was bad at gluing tires, lol. I expected the AKA to be tossed out. But I am surprised by the Loctite stuff.
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