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Old 12-10-2012 | 10:22 AM
  #31606  
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[QUOTE=Cain;11537727]I use the hudy offroad setup guide that is available for free.



WOW! Cain Thanks!
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Old 12-10-2012 | 11:58 AM
  #31607  
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no prob. I found this really helpful and keep a printed copy in the binders I use for all the printed versions of the manuals I have. With them in the plastic pocket things,you can work on your car and not worry about dirtying the manual page.
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Old 12-10-2012 | 12:33 PM
  #31608  
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Originally Posted by AE SC10 4X4

Heres the end result.
Not sure if I did this right?
Yes. Good job on the pics.
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Old 12-10-2012 | 01:12 PM
  #31609  
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does anyone know if the outdrives with the new AE steel diff housings are shorter so that you don't need to use up-travel limiters on the shocks to keep the cvd's from banging on the diff outdrives? didn't see anyone else mentioned this.

Thanks,
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Old 12-10-2012 | 01:27 PM
  #31610  
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Originally Posted by Eaglesrx
does anyone know if the outdrives with the new AE steel diff housings are shorter so that you don't need to use up-travel limiters on the shocks to keep the cvd's from banging on the diff outdrives? didn't see anyone else mentioned this.

Thanks,
I personally like the brass diff housing compared to the new steel diffs. Seems like the truck wants to dip out more with the new diffs. Maybe it's just
Me tho.
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Old 12-10-2012 | 03:11 PM
  #31611  
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Originally Posted by BorackBasher
I personally like the brass diff housing compared to the new steel diffs. Seems like the truck wants to dip out more with the new diffs. Maybe it's just
Me tho.
Define "dip out"? If you mean roll and dip to that side you are probably right. Im assuming that if the steel bushings are harder and the brass softer then when the brass was wearing the driveshafts would "hiccup" into the outdrive slots and make the truck pop up when it would really have rolled. I may be wrong too but it kind of makes sense to me. I would rather use the limiters and have the steel bushings so that the wobble isnt present and the handling will be predictable.

Matter of fact I think I need to go to the new diff housings to see if it stops the tendency of my truck to lose the rear off power in a turn. It may just be that the bones are catching on the outdrives while leaning.....even with the limiters I have in.

Glad you mentioned this!!! LOL

Sal
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Old 12-10-2012 | 03:30 PM
  #31612  
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I think he meant to type diff out
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Old 12-10-2012 | 03:39 PM
  #31613  
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Originally Posted by associatevalley
I think he meant to type diff out
You might be right, lol. Lets see the response. Either way it made the light come on for me about an issue I was having.

Sal
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Old 12-11-2012 | 12:53 AM
  #31614  
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I run push controll at 30% on my rx8 so even when I let off the throttle it still doesn't slow down as fast as it normally would and wash out. Works great. It's weird to get used to but once you do you'll wish your other cars/trucks had it too. I've found push control to really help on 4pole motors and 550 motors. I still have instant brakes during the push if things get out of control.
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Old 12-11-2012 | 01:10 AM
  #31615  
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Originally Posted by PastaBoyNY
Front arms for warping and tensioner pulley bearings.
Originally Posted by MunchMunch
Front arm is warped, broke front skid plate, rear shock tower (got dropped by a marshal right infront of another car at full speed), diffs (get the shims correct), bent dog bones in rear, also, all four of the bearings in my stearing will hardly turn. Other than the shock tower everything else is normal wear. I just tore the whole thing apart after Saturday's race how I found the front arm is messed up. Got all parts ordered will actually do Max Flurer's setup from 2012 Psyhco Nitro Blast on it.
Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta
Nothing yet. I keep a set of front arms, and a spare diff. I've read on here that a few have broken the steering assemble, but I've never seen an issue in perosn.
How do the RPM arms that are already installed do?

How often do the pulley bearing usually last?

Did your dog bone just bend or did it bottom out?

And ya it sounds like they are pretty tough which is a good thing cuz I'm new to this whole racing thing. LoL

Last edited by Newdieselguy; 12-11-2012 at 04:42 AM.
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Old 12-11-2012 | 08:04 AM
  #31616  
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The rpm arms are great, if you get two sets you can send one in for lifetime warranty replacement while you run the other set and never have to buy another set of arms, ever! I haven't used them but the stockers definatly have warping issues.

I've never replaced a pulley bearing.

Dogbone will bend if shock travel isn't limited.

The only thing I have to replace regularly is the front hub bearings, but there only a buck at Avid.
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Old 12-11-2012 | 08:23 AM
  #31617  
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Originally Posted by PastaBoyNY
You might be right, lol. Lets see the response. Either way it made the light come on for me about an issue I was having.

Sal

It's dipping out at the End of the straight. Only spot on the track too. If I send it too hard it happens. I really have to baby it at the end of the sweeper.
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Old 12-11-2012 | 08:31 AM
  #31618  
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Ya I might have to pickup another set.
Yep there are spacers on the shafts so I should be good.
And I'll keep an eye on the hub bearings and grab a couple to have around.
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Old 12-11-2012 | 07:47 PM
  #31619  
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Originally Posted by Newdieselguy
How do the RPM arms that are already installed do?

How often do the pulley bearing usually last?

Did your dog bone just bend or did it bottom out?

And ya it sounds like they are pretty tough which is a good thing cuz I'm new to this whole racing thing. LoL
I have replaced 3 in a year. All on the rear pulley. Could be me running the belt a lil on the tight side but they are a cheap and easy fix.

Arms....I have been running with warped arms for weeks. Im too lazy to switch them out I guess, lol. I tend to "drive around the truck" instead of really digging in and tuning/wrenching. Its a horrible habbit, I know, but its just me at the moment. LOL

Sal
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Old 12-11-2012 | 07:51 PM
  #31620  
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Originally Posted by BorackBasher
It's dipping out at the End of the straight. Only spot on the track too. If I send it too hard it happens. I really have to baby it at the end of the sweeper.
I find it easier to control if you have NO drag brake set and if you can learn to tap the brakes to set the chassis a bit and then accelerate through the sweeper with a modest amount of throttle input. Are you overdriving the front wheels? That is my favorite way to drive the truck! 19T pulley up front really makes the truck feel planted. Im running 5K rear and 20K front diff fluid. Next step is 7K in the rear and 20k front.

Hope that helps!

Sal
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