You converted your sc104x4 to a touring car?

Just kidding.

Thanks for the help guys and thanks Cain for trying twice to get me set straight.

Heres the end result.
Not sure if I did this right?
If I did do this correctly all I have to do now is set the ride height?
24mm?

So this is how my rear shock looked with a rear spring and set for 24mm ride height


This is how it looks with the Front blue spring on the rear shock.
I have the ring that adjust ride height spun all the way up so theres no compression on the spring.
With 2 of the C Clips that have the #2 on them under the lower cup everything sits flush with no compression.


My question now is do the C Clips sit outide the lower cup like this?


or do my C Clips sit inside the lower cup like this? If so, how many more c clips are needed to rise lower cup up? Is there any tricks to getting the rideheight set with front springs on rear? Or is it still spin the plastic wheel on shocks as needed and just measure from the center of the chassis or some people do the crack where the rear and front chassis meet with the center? Sorry I really couldn't find a pic of the finished result as template, epic fail on me. I even used search

front springs are for the front
rear springs are for the rear

If you wish to use the front or rear springs otherwise, your bound to come across with some other issues like ridehight adjustments

What kind of parts are you guys breaking while racing?

Or what spare parts do you guys recommend I have on hand?

Nothing yet. I keep a set of front arms, and a spare diff. I've read on here that a few have broken the steering assemble, but I've never seen an issue in perosn.

Front arms for warping and tensioner pulley bearings.

Front arm is warped, broke front skid plate, rear shock tower (got dropped by a marshal right infront of another car at full speed), diffs (get the shims correct), bent dog bones in rear, also, all four of the bearings in my stearing will hardly turn. Other than the shock tower everything else is normal wear. I just tore the whole thing apart after Saturday's race how I found the front arm is messed up. Got all parts ordered will actually do Max Flurer's setup from 2012 Psyhco Nitro Blast on it.

Does anyone make an aluminum steering rack for this truck? I keep on snapping the servo saver. So annoying.

Only thing I ever replaced on mind were idler gears, diff gears (after many many races) and body posts. Very durable car.

STRC makes one: http://www.teamstrc.com/index.php?ro...tegory&path=66

Just make sure you have a servo that's up to the task as this wont break if you take a hard hit




Bent

Does any one have some good info for us newbs. Im looking for something PDF, Book, website, that would have info on what changes made to 2wd and 4wd does, example camber height, length angle, sway bars, shocks adjustments, etc.... Like a RC bible?

Indoor clay , it gets her done ....


The 16mm shock project is going great ....


blusport

This thread is the best place for help & use www.rc10.com for set-ups

I use the hudy offroad setup guide that is available for free.

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/sho...p?file_id=4461

No real need for the steel , just add ballast as the Ae team set-ups suggest using .

RavensNightFury : If by steel middle bit you mean the exotek chassis, I would say if the track you plan to race on would have the vehicle benefit from more weight, you cannot beat the location of where the exotek chassis is located as with the stock chassis, you are not going to be able to add weight as down low as the exotek chassis adds it.

I am seeing benefits to the chassis on tracks that are loose. An overall benefit in that you don't get pushed around by the losi's as easily either.