5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
11-27-2012 | 04:55 PM
Sure, but I'm telling you there's a way to measure it and be absolutely sure.
Not saying your way is no good craig , just saying how I'm tuning ..
With Brown watching me try ...
There is no substitute for testing. Calculations are only a shortcut if your track time is limited.
It is. ICRC Losi springs go (softest to stiffest) white - yellow - pink- red - orange - silver - blue - black.
If you were running yellows all around you had a 4.8 rate in the front and a 3.1 rate in the rear. TLR springs are "about" 20% softer than AE (a TLR 2.6 is almost the same as a 2.0 AE). Thumbnailing it, that would be about a green in the front and a red in the rear (using the same length springs).
The way you have it now, it's exactly backwords to the way you had it set up before. My preference is to run yellow fronts in the front and blue fronts or yellow fronts in the rear.
Not saying your way is no good craig , just saying how I'm tuning ..
With Brown watching me try ...
BTW the red in question I believe is softer then the green , we had both around.
Was judging by feel & other's guessing as well ...
The way you have it now, it's exactly backwords to the way you had it set up before. My preference is to run yellow fronts in the front and blue fronts or yellow fronts in the rear.
11-27-2012 | 05:23 PM
Tech Legend
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 22,595
From: TRCR Modified Driver
Craig
Understand your reasoning
The spring's I choose this time are working better but still need to test in battle ...
Then I will try another combo & do all over again ..
1st try never works
2nd time way better
3rd time even better
and on & on ...
each try I get a little better & closer...
Understand your reasoning
The spring's I choose this time are working better but still need to test in battle ...
Then I will try another combo & do all over again ..
1st try never works
2nd time way better
3rd time even better
and on & on ...
each try I get a little better & closer...
11-27-2012 | 06:50 PM
Pm me your email and I'll send u the pics.
Gonna race it this weekend and I'll let you know how it goes. I think I'm gonna pull the carbon chassis brace cause it makes the chassis too stiff. Also going to try to run it without the swaybars. The truck feels more planted and stable than the sc10. I'm running the diff with 10k oil but thinking of trying out 7k to allow the truck to rotate better thru the corners. Full RTR weight is 5lb 4oz with a 550 motor an a few aluminum parts on it. My sc10 is 4lb 15oz RTR.
Gonna race it this weekend and I'll let you know how it goes. I think I'm gonna pull the carbon chassis brace cause it makes the chassis too stiff. Also going to try to run it without the swaybars. The truck feels more planted and stable than the sc10. I'm running the diff with 10k oil but thinking of trying out 7k to allow the truck to rotate better thru the corners. Full RTR weight is 5lb 4oz with a 550 motor an a few aluminum parts on it. My sc10 is 4lb 15oz RTR.
I like how you did the shorty lipo. If you have a chance, can you test it out for runtime with it?
Funny stuff, this would be like a super durable MM SC10
11-27-2012 | 07:21 PM
Tech Adept
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 189
Yes the front drive relies on the one inner slipper pad. Most have changed to the hd pad, garo discs for front and back or like me switched to the exotek front drive locker. Your over drive pulley in the front will thank you by getting the exotek piece... There is also another option I've tried if anyone wants to know...
The vts was created because on the original slipper design the rear tires didn't get the drive they needed off of one pad (even the hd one) due to the torque of 550 motors over powering the slipper spring and pad pressure. The truck was originally designed for 540 motors in mind.
Coupling the inner slipper hub will make the front and rear of the truck slip together but puts excess pressure on the rear tranny. If you tighten the slipper down too tight be ready to replace lost of idler gears, and no the almuinum ones will not help longevity
The vts was created because on the original slipper design the rear tires didn't get the drive they needed off of one pad (even the hd one) due to the torque of 550 motors over powering the slipper spring and pad pressure. The truck was originally designed for 540 motors in mind.
Coupling the inner slipper hub will make the front and rear of the truck slip together but puts excess pressure on the rear tranny. If you tighten the slipper down too tight be ready to replace lost of idler gears, and no the almuinum ones will not help longevity
I would think that if you bypass the front slipper with the exotec front drive locker you would run into problems? At least with the front coupled the whole system still has the slipper to protect it...again like you said as long as the correct settings are ran. I have noticed the previous posts regarding the issues with the rear idler. Hope this doesn't become an issue.
Does anyone run esc timing/cheat on their 550s? I'm running a tekin 550 5.5 and mmp. I also have a 1410. I like way the tekin feels a bit better but I'd like a bit more power. At $10 a pinion I'd like to try timing rather than gearing first...
11-27-2012 | 07:27 PM
I know on the 550s that Speed Passion has a few setups using timing on them as well as turbo.
http://www.speedpassion.net/uploadfi...20Walt%20G.jpg
on Pro4 motors I have found some benefit using VERY LITTLE turbo timing at a higher RPM range for down the straights.
http://www.speedpassion.net/uploadfi...20Walt%20G.jpg
on Pro4 motors I have found some benefit using VERY LITTLE turbo timing at a higher RPM range for down the straights.
11-27-2012 | 08:49 PM
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That probably would be a good idea to pull the chassis brace like you mentioned. Would be curious to see if the exotek chassis needs to be pulled too in this kind of usage.
I like how you did the shorty lipo. If you have a chance, can you test it out for runtime with it?
Funny stuff, this would be like a super durable MM SC10
I like how you did the shorty lipo. If you have a chance, can you test it out for runtime with it?
Funny stuff, this would be like a super durable MM SC10
As a 4x4 I normally set my gearing so that I could run 15* of boost @ 19,500. I find running a one or two tooth smaller pinion and boosting up top on 2 pole motors helps both motor and esc run cooler.
11-27-2012 | 08:55 PM
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11-27-2012 | 09:13 PM
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iTrader: (58)
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 622
From: San Diego
Thanks for the info. I really think that this is why truck feels so weird.
I would think that if you bypass the front slipper with the exotec front drive locker you would run into problems? At least with the front coupled the whole system still has the slipper to protect it...again like you said as long as the correct settings are ran. I have noticed the previous posts regarding the issues with the rear idler. Hope this doesn't become an issue.
Does anyone run esc timing/cheat on their 550s? I'm running a tekin 550 5.5 and mmp. I also have a 1410. I like way the tekin feels a bit better but I'd like a bit more power. At $10 a pinion I'd like to try timing rather than gearing first...
I would think that if you bypass the front slipper with the exotec front drive locker you would run into problems? At least with the front coupled the whole system still has the slipper to protect it...again like you said as long as the correct settings are ran. I have noticed the previous posts regarding the issues with the rear idler. Hope this doesn't become an issue.
Does anyone run esc timing/cheat on their 550s? I'm running a tekin 550 5.5 and mmp. I also have a 1410. I like way the tekin feels a bit better but I'd like a bit more power. At $10 a pinion I'd like to try timing rather than gearing first...
11-27-2012 | 10:02 PM
Haven't been there since the turkey race before turkey day. Will call them tomorrow and see.
11-27-2012 | 10:28 PM
Let me know asap please lol, but I'm not sure how soon I can make it there so I will pay for shipping ;-), thanks Chris.......
11-27-2012 | 10:34 PM
Tech Addict
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 533
From: Tustin, Ca
Yes the front drive relies on the one inner slipper pad. Most have changed to the hd pad, garo discs for front and back or like me switched to the exotek front drive locker. Your over drive pulley in the front will thank you by getting the exotek piece... There is also another option I've tried if anyone wants to know...
The vts was created because on the original slipper design the rear tires didn't get the drive they needed off of one pad (even the hd one) due to the torque of 550 motors over powering the slipper spring and pad pressure. The truck was originally designed for 540 motors in mind.
Coupling the inner slipper hub will make the front and rear of the truck slip together but puts excess pressure on the rear tranny. If you tighten the slipper down too tight be ready to replace lost of idler gears, and no the almuinum ones will not help longevity
The vts was created because on the original slipper design the rear tires didn't get the drive they needed off of one pad (even the hd one) due to the torque of 550 motors over powering the slipper spring and pad pressure. The truck was originally designed for 540 motors in mind.
Coupling the inner slipper hub will make the front and rear of the truck slip together but puts excess pressure on the rear tranny. If you tighten the slipper down too tight be ready to replace lost of idler gears, and no the almuinum ones will not help longevity
11-28-2012 | 08:10 AM
I just saw the extra pieces sitting there with the chassis all empty and the mount just came to me... I get a minimum of 15 min run time with the 4200 shorty. My motor is a reedy sonic 4.0. I'm geared 60/12 and even with the boost on my esc set to 52* @ 15,000rpm it runs super cool. (Has insane power and speed at that level)
As a 4x4 I normally set my gearing so that I could run 15* of boost @ 19,500. I find running a one or two tooth smaller pinion and boosting up top on 2 pole motors helps both motor and esc run cooler.
As a 4x4 I normally set my gearing so that I could run 15* of boost @ 19,500. I find running a one or two tooth smaller pinion and boosting up top on 2 pole motors helps both motor and esc run cooler.
+1 also on the boosting but going smaller pinion to help with temps. Seeing that with Pro4 motors too, but with much less timing (like 5 degrees).