I realize english isn't your primary language, but I'm unclear to what part you are writing about.

Do you mean the pin that keys the axle to the hex?

Do you mean the pin that keys the axle to the shaft that goes in the transmission outdrive?

Or do you mean something else?

Part number?

max's truck is very consistant which is the point i'm making. even a "factory" driver's vehicle that is not handling will show its weakness during a lap.

btw, i recall he is still using the stick pack configuration, but i've been wrong before.

i've raced an scte for the past month and really didnt notice any quicker lap times than my sc10 4 x 4. shock-spring-rideheight setup is key. and personally, i like the lighter truck.

Yes, im german and this technical things are not easy for me, but i try to do my best i mean this one included here: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...VA-Rebuild-Kit

I think it keys the bone to the axle and breaks if the bone is worn out. Our local dealer at the track doesnt have them so i want some cheap ones in reserve because you never really know when they will break.

Edit: some additional information: the original AE pin is 1.5mm thick and 12mm long.

I've been racing for 20+ years, and I have never needed to replace that part. How did you break one in the first place?

I don't break them but they do wear out. The diameter of the pin shrinks via wear and becomes sloppy. I usually only have to replace the pin to snug everything back together.

duplicate delete

I should have been on this Thread before buying my upgrades. Thanks for the info Maddog and jamr1130, very helpful.

I'm going to try the Exotek with the FT VTS Garodisc http://www.rcshox.com/ft-vts-garodisc/ (Placing order now)

I tested with the locked front and it was no good for me. Made the truck unpredictable and squirley. I run on indoor clay high bite tracks. Maybe it would help for outdoors but it only damaged my laptimes.
Not the first time I've thrown away 10$ in this hobby tho.

You can probably up that number by quite a bit, I know I can

Different strokes I guess. I think it's the best thing ever for this truck.

I am getting ready to head to IIC Sunday for a week of being crowded into a nondescript conference room [game show announcer voice]in sunny and luxurious Las Vegas [/game show announcer voice] and I'll tell ya. I'm about blue in the face working on my two sedans. So tonight I gave myself a break and put my SC10 4x4 back together after my speed control drama a couple of months back. That, and I need to make some space and consume/install/use some parts I had accumulated that are sitting around. So I finished a housekeeping install I started a couple months ago.

And, believe it or not, I learned a couple of things!

1. If you run belt covers, get yourself a small straight edge. If the covers aren't totally flush from cover to cover, throw them out. PN ASC91008 has the new FT update to clear the VTS slipper, so the Mac The Knife slipper (the best one - uses the biggest diameter friction discs!) clears by a mile.
2. You can adjust the trim to a small extent by loosening the screws on the front chassis plate. After I worked on mine, I was able to get the chassis to trim perfect without any radio sub trim.
3. My Hudy setup station is the best thing ever. If you aren't using one, you have no idea how bad of a job you are doing using whatever camber gauge you are using now.
4. If you cut your belt tunnels out al la BK or Cameron Kellogg, you will never distort your tunnel plastics.
5. Distorted tunnels make the truck potentially noisier than it needs to be.
6. The best fan for a motor in this truck is the 40mm one, secured to a piece of lexan and held to the chassis brace by two zip ties al la Maifield. It moves a ton of air, and won't vibrate apart because it isn't as solid as one bolted to the chassis.

I won't get to run it till I get back and I get done with cotton harvest, but it's done and I'm psyced to run it again. I have a Hobbywing 4000 KV four pole motor now and it has adequate power without the 3 ounces of extra ballast from the 550 in the back of the chassis. Plus, I like the powerband of the four pole motor a ton more than what I had in my 550 or 540 motor.

Plus, I missed you guys.

See if you can get hold of some Piano Wire, Its very strong and you can get it it all differant thinknesses...

Can someone elaborat on the cut out belt tunnels. Mine are bent a little and I would love to understand what can be done to eliminate the distortion.

They get bent if you hit something. The original design used the covers to stiffen the chassis in beam, but they do wear out.

The factory team chassis brace and updated rear shock tower add enough beam strength to the chassis that you can take a saw to the belt covers of just leave the middle parts of the covers off.

I am not super comfortable leaving the covers off, particularly if you run outdoor.

Those pins are hardened tool steel, they are the most durable part in the whole CVA (IMO). If that part is shot, I shudder to think what the rest of the CVA looks like.