Thanks for all the responses. Still thinking about it at this point.

Running a Mamba Max Pro, smart-sense, timing on the can as it came out of the box. No punch control or throttle expo.

Longest straight includes a "ski jump" that takes up most of what is already a short, MAYBE 50' straight. Its a small indoor track

No tighter than it was before the rebuild, new belt which has stretched a bit but is no tight, truck rolls as expected with the pinion removed.

Thanks for any advice.

If you have the time indybobb, would you be willing to try the raised inner ball stud without the 8mm riser? Curious to see what you notice in performance difference, if any as far as the traction rolling goes.


On the MMP, going off of memory here so please forgive if this is common knowledge, but do you have any timing at all on the ESC? If so, try lowest setting.

that size of track sounds like the one I am going to run on, 50 x 50. Your gearing doesn't sound bad personally.

From what others have reported, it seems that the Pro4's run hotter with the MMP. Not sure why but when people go from the MMPs to the RX8s they seem to all report temp drops.

Cain,watched um put VTS on ,even drove it to help him out.
O-man !

Shitzami alert !

Practicing @ B Town right now

Sc10 4x4 = DAILED

Hi mate, I used to run a Nexx10SC and ive resently purchased the standard SC10 4x4 Kit and out of the box i was a little unhappy, as the sc10 4x4 was all over the place and very tail happy compared to my Nexx10sc, But ive just fitted up the FT Kit and a set of swaybars (still running a stick pack) and now the SC10 4x4 is great
Althought the sc10 4x4 is a little bit harder to work on compared to my Nexx10sc im still very happy with my purchase/upgrade and im sure the truck will only get better with little more fine tuning

1.6 pistons? Is this a typo?

I've bent mine but never broke it. I think it is a little soft and if you aren't careful it can be bent and fatigued when tightening the slipper.

[QUOTE=Cain;11421445]If you have the time indybobb, would you be willing to try the raised inner ball stud without the 8mm riser? Curious to see what you notice in performance difference, if any as far as the traction rolling goes.




QUOTE]




I'll give it a shot during practice at our next event, but wont be until December 2, the track is put together (with different layouts) for the events every other month.

By the way, I am not saying anyone is wrong, I'm just stating my personal feeling with the truck on my track. I will give the raised studs without the c-hub a try.

I'm running the truck on a dirt track for the first time this sunday, so I'll start with the MOD and then try without it to see,, I'll have the Max Flurer setup sheet ready if I don't like the feel with the 8mm MOD on.

I have run my SC104x4 for 2 seasons now with minimal upgrades. I've replaced the suspension arms once, rebuilt the diffs a few times and played with shimming to remove some of the extra play/wobble, and upgraded to Garodiscs in the slipper. With those small extras, the truck is more than fun to drive, and has been very reliable.

If you're good at casing jumps, I would suggest a chassis brace. Beyond that, not much else is required to have fun with the truck.

To be competitve racing (which I know you mentioned, you RUN on a track, but do not RACE on a track) the centre diff is where my next upgrade money is going....

And even with that, all the upgrades I mentioned you can probably get for under $40 for having fun or $80 for racing. $17 for the Garos or $60 for the cdiff, $15 for a brace, and $5 for proper washers to use in the diff. (Don't need garodiscs if you get the Cdiff.)

Again, just my opinion.....even though I know *COUGH* SOMEONE *COUGH WC* will say you don't need that stuff.

$5 for proper shims will save wear and tear on your diff and CVDS
$15 will help protect your chassis from bending and your belt from stretching
$17 will mean that you don't have to take your slipper pads out after every battery pack and sand the glaze off of them so that they will be ok for the next run.

Waverly Hills Sanatorium = DIALED

The trend right now is to run 2 hole 1.5 to 1.7hole in just about everything. I will have some available in a few weeks for the public. It works very well especially on the high grip situations. The ones i am testing are a bit different but are still single stage.

Great and no worries about saying anyone is wrong, or not wrong, etc. I know you and others may get that impression when reading the thread on face value, but to clarify I am wanting to hear what others are experiencing. We all pitch in on that, and we can keep the truck moving forward.

its a good truck, very durable as far as suspension components go from breakage, just needs the right setup on it for your conditions and some stuff added to it depending on what version you have. A lot of people find benefit to using a variety of aftermarket parts in a variety of conditions. The Exotek chassis for one, the RC Shox Center Diff is another.


yeah, he put it on ...

But ...

I said you should talk to him so you can actually know what was the issue ...

What do u mean with "if you aren't careful"? How can i prevent it from breaking again?

if I understanding you correctly, you broke it on the threaded portion?

Oh,, a point that I'm not sure if it has been said or discussed before, for high bite, set your steering endpoints, I'm running at around 70% and can still out corner anything out there.