RC10B4.1 FT/WC
For one, the reason they didnt leak is because there was so much o-ring stiction that it would be nearly impossible for them to leak. Another reason why is they might not be as compact of a design then the v2 style shock bodies. Yet another idea, the plastic cartridge had issues when molded and some wouldn't thread in to the bodies which makes for another area that can fail.
Tech Adept
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 192
From: S.C.O.R.E. Savannah, GA
Waflet, I assume you like running the truck chassis?
What kind of track do you run on? Ours is usually dry, low to med traction. Even in times when the traction is high, get out of the groove and it's loose city.
I have a truck and I've been thinking about swaping it over and give it a try. When would you not want to run the longer chassis?
What kind of track do you run on? Ours is usually dry, low to med traction. Even in times when the traction is high, get out of the groove and it's loose city.
I have a truck and I've been thinking about swaping it over and give it a try. When would you not want to run the longer chassis?
For the avid hub towers, the directions on avid's website say to put the washer in front of the nut. The stock screws don't stick out enough to get a nut on. Should I put longer screws on and put the nut on or just use the shorter thread locked screws?
I got short screws, no loctite, and no problems.
The washer and nut go on the ball stud, not the screws holding the tower to the hub.
Waflet, I assume you like running the truck chassis?
What kind of track do you run on? Ours is usually dry, low to med traction. Even in times when the traction is high, get out of the groove and it's loose city.
I have a truck and I've been thinking about swaping it over and give it a try. When would you not want to run the longer chassis?
What kind of track do you run on? Ours is usually dry, low to med traction. Even in times when the traction is high, get out of the groove and it's loose city.
I have a truck and I've been thinking about swaping it over and give it a try. When would you not want to run the longer chassis?
yes, I really like the truck chassis. It makes it very easy to drive. I will caution you that I couldn't get it to turn at all with a full size pack. I can only get it to handle well with a shorty. I will also tell you that it required a completely different setup at an out door track that I would also give the same description for. When the buggy is set up for a track the advantage that the truck chassis gives is that it slows down the rotation of the chassis. When the rear starts to step out it is VERY easy to catch. The drawback of it is that it slows down the rotation of the chassis (yes, I know I said the same thing). If you are really, really good you want that twitchyness of the shorter chassis. It will allow you to a faster ultimate lap time, but only if your first name is Ryan, or your almost that good. If your skill has gotten to the point where you run a 10 minute main with out hitting the pipe or putting a wheel wrong, the truck chassis won't help you. For mere mortals, like the majority of us, getting a consistant lap 1/2 a second slower than the fastest lap will win the race when that fast guy spends 30 seconds on his roof.
I would describe my track exactly the same. I'm actually almost in your neck of the woods. I race at warehouse hobby raceway in Helena, AL. We are having 2 larger races coming up in December. the 1st is the Alabama State championship finale. We are expecting 100+ drivers. The 15th (I think) is the toys for tot race & should have a good draw.
I would get the HW120 or the orion 160 amp. It will work in both the sc10 4x4 and your buggy.
speed passion also makes some solid esc's.
This one is pretty good.
http://www.speedpassion.net/reventon/reventonpro.asp
I ran this esc in both 4x4 and b4. Smooth and works well. The lcd program box is pretty cheap to0.
http://www.falconsekido.com/products...s-esc-for-10th
speed passion also makes some solid esc's.
This one is pretty good.
http://www.speedpassion.net/reventon/reventonpro.asp
I ran this esc in both 4x4 and b4. Smooth and works well. The lcd program box is pretty cheap to0.
http://www.falconsekido.com/products...s-esc-for-10th
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 39
I have the GTB2. I'm currently looking for a new ESC because I don't like it. The drag brakes are completely ineffective for me. I can't tell a discernable difference between setting 1 or setting 13 (IIRC the highest setting #)- neither of which is strong enough for my liking. This ESC would have been gone a long time ago if it weren't for the price tage of a replacement. So, if you are a heavy Drag Brake user, my suggestion would be to look for a different ESC. Aside from the brakes, I have no complaints, it does its job adequately.
Personally I would look at this one. I have heard really good things about it, but it is at the top of your budget.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Brushless-ESC
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Brushless-ESC
Hideeho
yes, I really like the truck chassis. It makes it very easy to drive. I will caution you that I couldn't get it to turn at all with a full size pack. I can only get it to handle well with a shorty. I will also tell you that it required a completely different setup at an out door track that I would also give the same description for. When the buggy is set up for a track the advantage that the truck chassis gives is that it slows down the rotation of the chassis. When the rear starts to step out it is VERY easy to catch. The drawback of it is that it slows down the rotation of the chassis (yes, I know I said the same thing). If you are really, really good you want that twitchyness of the shorter chassis. It will allow you to a faster ultimate lap time, but only if your first name is Ryan, or your almost that good. If your skill has gotten to the point where you run a 10 minute main with out hitting the pipe or putting a wheel wrong, the truck chassis won't help you. For mere mortals, like the majority of us, getting a consistant lap 1/2 a second slower than the fastest lap will win the race when that fast guy spends 30 seconds on his roof.
I would describe my track exactly the same. I'm actually almost in your neck of the woods. I race at warehouse hobby raceway in Helena, AL. We are having 2 larger races coming up in December. the 1st is the Alabama State championship finale. We are expecting 100+ drivers. The 15th (I think) is the toys for tot race & should have a good draw.
yes, I really like the truck chassis. It makes it very easy to drive. I will caution you that I couldn't get it to turn at all with a full size pack. I can only get it to handle well with a shorty. I will also tell you that it required a completely different setup at an out door track that I would also give the same description for. When the buggy is set up for a track the advantage that the truck chassis gives is that it slows down the rotation of the chassis. When the rear starts to step out it is VERY easy to catch. The drawback of it is that it slows down the rotation of the chassis (yes, I know I said the same thing). If you are really, really good you want that twitchyness of the shorter chassis. It will allow you to a faster ultimate lap time, but only if your first name is Ryan, or your almost that good. If your skill has gotten to the point where you run a 10 minute main with out hitting the pipe or putting a wheel wrong, the truck chassis won't help you. For mere mortals, like the majority of us, getting a consistant lap 1/2 a second slower than the fastest lap will win the race when that fast guy spends 30 seconds on his roof.
I would describe my track exactly the same. I'm actually almost in your neck of the woods. I race at warehouse hobby raceway in Helena, AL. We are having 2 larger races coming up in December. the 1st is the Alabama State championship finale. We are expecting 100+ drivers. The 15th (I think) is the toys for tot race & should have a good draw.



