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Old 10-18-2012 | 08:58 AM
  #30466  
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it has no timeing in it it was made for a slash 4x4 drop in kit.
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Old 10-18-2012 | 09:01 AM
  #30467  
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Old 10-18-2012 | 10:51 AM
  #30468  
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Originally Posted by Prostreet314
No, it's not the radio gear. My servo (hitec 7940) is fresh and has no slop or centering issues. My Ko propo Helios is working properly as well, since I run 4 other classes and none of those cars have the same problem. Something is not right on the truck but I'm still trying to find what it is.
Did you make sure you fully tightened the two screws that hold the servo mounts to the front top plate? I had an issue with my servo coming un-centered and swaying. These two screws were not tight enough.
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Old 10-18-2012 | 11:27 AM
  #30469  
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Make sure the servo arm isn't hitting underneath the belt tunnel.
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Old 10-18-2012 | 11:50 AM
  #30470  
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Be explained to me why 8mm mod would cause more traction roll
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Old 10-18-2012 | 11:51 AM
  #30471  
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Pro Street

Check under your chassis , see if you installed the correct screws (#89454) to mount the ft gear box . If you use too long a screw ,will block the steering rack from moving all the way .
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Old 10-18-2012 | 11:53 AM
  #30472  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
8mm rear camber mod is great for med to high traction conditions .

Reduces chassis roll & less rear grip .....

Way it works /....

Helps the truck stay flat in the sweeper & slide a bit instead of digging in & traction rolling over.....
As you can see OP or anyone else, this is the dilemma about the 8mm mod as there are different opinions on what it does. I tried it, and I differ on opinion on what I saw (more traction on the rear).

Best bet give it a try.


Originally Posted by vito
it has no timeing in it it was made for a slash 4x4 drop in kit.
what do you mean by hot? Do you have an actual temperature measurement?
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Old 10-18-2012 | 12:01 PM
  #30473  
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here is a quote from someone I trust on a breakdown of the 8mm mod in his opinion:

The 8mm mod plants the rear and and reduces traction rolling.
Now, how you want to go about using this to your advantage is a whole different story. The reason behind the mod is that keeping the angle of the upper link the same by raising both ends equally lowers the roll center, so in that regard it makes sense that people are doing this mod to try and make the rear end more predictable. That is as simple as it gets.

Now for some reasons why you shouldn't do the 8mm mod automatically. The higher the traction, the less need there is (from the standpoint of 'planting' the rear end) to run the 8mm mod. If you are perfectly content with the handling of your car, but are strictly looking to reduce traction rolling, I would look elsewhere (say, lowering ride height a millimeter or two and going to a stiffer sway bar). At the ROAR Nats, Maifield didn't run the 8mm mod because the track had enough traction and he needed the car to transition very quickly from left to right in all the high speed chicanes and flowing corners. There is a point at which lowering the roll center too far creates a lazy feeling car that is slow to transition, so while it would have given him more rear traction, the car wouldn't have transitioned as quickly. If the track was slower with more 180's and fewer switchbacks, I'm willing to bet he would have been running the 8mm mod.
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Old 10-18-2012 | 12:09 PM
  #30474  
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I use it.

I ran it on a high to medium bite, traction rolled everywhere. I took it off for the exact same track, layout, setup, everything. Stopped traction rolling, and TQ'd every qual.

I put it back on in my local basher track and the feeling is amazing with it.
--------

The mod is for loose surface, dear god why can't we get past this. The 8mm mod plants you 'too much' in highbite. You just need to try it and see for yourselves.

This is reality, not Wild Choke theology.
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Old 10-18-2012 | 12:10 PM
  #30475  
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Thanks Cain that they will clarified it for me thank you
Metrics I also had made my own center diff and then it later upgraded to be to do it I noticed a fair difference between the two in the regular at least on acceleration but offered sorry's and felt about the same the biggest advantage I would say is the added bearing that you provide with the kit
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Old 10-18-2012 | 12:12 PM
  #30476  
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I want some a while cherries Kool-Aid it must taste pretty good because this slipper is not needed on this truck
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Old 10-18-2012 | 12:14 PM
  #30477  
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no prob. To me personally I think what I was hoping to gain by the +8mm mod I got much more out of the M2C rear toe in block.
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Old 10-18-2012 | 12:27 PM
  #30478  
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Cain , confused ?
Ha ! Ha !


Its really easy to make mistakes judging a set-up change ..

You will have to trust me on this one ...


Scotty's Show Down Tour


Have a bunch of team mates in Texas right now , even heard one my best Bro's Greg-Ory is there !

BK is building a new Sc10 for Greg as I post ....


Awesome news for me to hear ....
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Old 10-18-2012 | 12:31 PM
  #30479  
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From: tx rchq
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Originally Posted by SC Shaun
I use it.

I ran it on a high to medium bite, traction rolled everywhere. I took it off for the exact same track, layout, setup, everything. Stopped traction rolling, and TQ'd every qual.

I put it back on in my local basher track and the feeling is amazing with it.
--------

The mod is for loose surface, dear god why can't we get past this. The 8mm mod plants you 'too much' in highbite. You just need to try it and see for yourselves.

This is reality, not Wild Choke theology.
Have tried the 8mm m I just trying to understand why I'm traction rolling with it
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Old 10-18-2012 | 12:33 PM
  #30480  
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Originally Posted by Cain
As you can see OP or anyone else, this is the dilemma about the 8mm mod as there are different opinions on what it does. I tried it, and I differ on opinion on what I saw (more traction on the rear).

Best bet give it a try.




what do you mean by hot? Do you have an actual temperature measurement?
the temp lights come on as it get to 150
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