The whole point of the Exotec chassis was it added weight and made it stiffer, now with the FT chassis brace & adding weight I'm not seeing any advantage with the Exotec chassis..and I've seen them for $99 to $109..not $140..

The chassis brace stiffens it up. When you add the exotek you get a super stiffy! Haha. Sc104x4 that is.
It's a good option if you are running sticks and not saddles too.

Ha, I'm sorry Oasis i was looking at the MSRP $134 on the website... But even at $100 that seems high for $10 of alum and a few hours of work. I'm going to make it and see how it goes. Thanks for the input.

The brace only stiffens it against compression. It doesn't help extension or torsion. The Exotek addresses both of those.

$100 does seem high. However, I broke down and purchased one for myself (note, in my experience I maybe shoulda checked with the wife BEFORE ordering, but better to ask forgiveness than permission).

With the part in hand, you can really appreciate the size of the original stock, and a LOT of machining (due both to the amount of material it looks like has to be removed, as well as the detail/precision fitting). TBH, I am shocked they can produce them for $100 without selling a BUNCH to make up for the initial setup and programming (in addition to the ongoing tools/materials costs).

If it is cost effective for you to make one for yourself, you are definitely one of the very few. That being said, if you proceed, I hope it turns out great. There is something about putting that chassis in that looks sharp and feels nice (in hand and on the track).

I love it

Hummm...

Where's that hot video bout
making a EXo yo self with the Dremel ?.....

I actually would be curious to see the other two chassis pieces in alloy to see how the vehicle performs

You could also make a chassis that will accept stick packs down the middle as well as the mounting hardware to do that. I bet that could go over really well. Machine your chassis so that using sticks ESCs have more room to fit.

Possibly machine the chassis so the batteries sit lower (assuming this is a possibility) on the chassis.

I only paid $109 for mine. ITs a fair price when you see what it took to make it. You have a machine that can do this, thats great. I dont have 100k to spend on a CNC mill myself or have access to one.

I cant wait to get it on the track with this thing, it looks like a damn pice of jewlery now.

I'm making a 2 week practicum at a company for sheet processing. They have a 2d cnc laser, a cnc punch, a combined cnc punch-laser machine (trumpf trumatic 600l) a bending-press (trumabend v130; amada) and a metalworking. Any ideas what tuning-parts i could produce there?

I paid 65$ for mine shipped! From a dude on here.
Maybe 1 run on it. No scratches even

Hey guys,

I was wondering if someone could let me know what I need to adjust in my setup to gain more off-power steering. The attached setup sheet is what I'm currently using. It's modeled after BK's SC Showdown sheet due to it being a very similar style track (indoor, small, lots of turns) and conditions (smooth, wet clay). I know this car should have more than enough steering for anyone, but it doesnt. I went down from 5k to 3k in the front diff and that helped a little but i was still getting owned in the corners by losi's and that's just not acceptable ...maybe I need to go thicker front sways/thinner rear sways? Should I try a less grippy front tire (maybe wishbones)? I'm open to any suggestions...

Thanks for your help!

Have you tried your setup without the 8mm mod on the rear? If so, what did you experience?

For me personally Probably would go with lower oil weight up front, maybe 27.5 . For the rear spring, is that Yellow rear stock or Yellow fronts on the rear? I probaby would go up on spring to the Fronts personally.

As for the inner rear a-arm position for the shock, have you tried the outside position? Same question on the upper shock mount position (but say the middle position).

zilla

first try the softer blue ft spring

not enuff steer ?

switch the rear spring to blue as well

also check ft & rear ride height before switching springs >>>>if 24mm already try 23mm

+1... good thought.

To take it a step further...
Why a 3 piece chassis at all?
Why not make a one piece chassis?

I don't know anyone that will pull the front or rear section to replace with another section fully built just to change setup or whatever AE thought we would need a modular chassis like that for

Good bye torsional twist