5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
10-14-2012 | 05:28 PM
Hello all new here but not new to the rc hobby. I have been away from the electric hobby for about 15 years and boy have times changed. I was running gas onroad for several years but got out of that and now back into electric off road. Just bought a SC10 4x4 about a month ago and went with a RTR i Know why well just wanted to get it and start to get the hang of off road again quickly without all the build time. Ok ive always been a associated fan and not a losi fan and always love a challenge of setting up a chassis. after reading this thread here is what i have done so far to my truck.
Exotek front diff lock
changed diff oil
30,000 front
7,000 rear
shocks
32.5 front blue springs
27.5 rear yellow springs
sway bars F/R
blue on both
8mm mod to rear
If anyone would like to chime in to tell me whats right or wrong that is fine i like to hear what all have to say and try differrent setups or changes.
Thanks
Exotek front diff lock
changed diff oil
30,000 front
7,000 rear
shocks
32.5 front blue springs
27.5 rear yellow springs
sway bars F/R
blue on both
8mm mod to rear
If anyone would like to chime in to tell me whats right or wrong that is fine i like to hear what all have to say and try differrent setups or changes.
Thanks
from what I saw of the 8mm mod, it seems useful on loose conditions, but personally I found the M2C rear toe in block adding in my toe in than stock to really help the truck. Worth trying and see what you thinking for sure though.
Front springs on the rear help too.
Saddle pack setup is a plus.
10-14-2012 | 10:26 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,250
From my experience and pure opinion in-which i've been using rear springs and front springs on the same layout for 9 months now: Rears in the rear feel better throughout the track until the jumps.
If you are having issues with launching or landing larger jumps: Go to fronts in the rear. It will change your thoughts on this truck.
The rest of the track is a little less performance from the fronts but if you have a jumpy track, it's FAR worth it. (the difference is small as this truck drives great in technical stuff)
If you are having issues with launching or landing larger jumps: Go to fronts in the rear. It will change your thoughts on this truck.
The rest of the track is a little less performance from the fronts but if you have a jumpy track, it's FAR worth it. (the difference is small as this truck drives great in technical stuff)
Last edited by SC Shaun; 10-14-2012 at 10:47 PM.
10-15-2012 | 12:15 AM
Hey guys ive got a RTR SC10 4x4 with FT Kit fitted and im about to upgrade my motor/esc, ive decided to go with the hobbywing exrun 3656SD 4-Pole system and im looking for advice on what kv to go for? either 4000kv or 4700kv? i only run on a loose dirt surface and also on a outdoor half dirt half fake grass track..
10-15-2012 | 05:56 AM
Tech Legend
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 22,595
From: TRCR Modified Driver
If you do try the ft springs in back ?
The truck will have a lot less traction and will become difficult to drive .
Making jumps will not be the problem , slipping and sliding will become a big issue instead.
Reedy Truck Race @ WC...
Last edited by Wild Cherry; 05-15-2013 at 12:52 PM.
10-15-2012 | 07:33 AM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 481
From: okc,ok
time for some maint on my FT truck. rear diff is locked up ,both rear wheels will rotate together but not in opsite directions. what belt tension pulleys should I get? Is the factory drive belt the only one out there?
10-15-2012 | 08:08 AM
But you've been reading this thread long enough to know why I messed this one up. We have seen several examples of people on this thread giving their opinion (either positive or negative) on a part they haven't tried. Or recommending one "setup" over the other when they have not tried both. I was just happy to see you weren't falling into that trap.
10-15-2012 | 08:17 AM
Tech Legend
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 22,595
From: TRCR Modified Driver
Yeah, of course don't make bad (or maybe incorrect?) assumptions. That's usually my goal, and that's generally the problem with assumptions -- you can't avoid making the occasional bad one.
But you've been reading this thread long enough to know why I messed this one up. We have seen several examples of people on this thread giving their opinion (either positive or negative) on a part they haven't tried. Or recommending one "setup" over the other when they have not tried both. I was just happy to see you weren't falling into that trap.
But you've been reading this thread long enough to know why I messed this one up. We have seen several examples of people on this thread giving their opinion (either positive or negative) on a part they haven't tried. Or recommending one "setup" over the other when they have not tried both. I was just happy to see you weren't falling into that trap.
Reason I advised to compare pushing the piston back forth inside the shock with no oil ?
Is to compare the stick the rings bring what ever brand you are using .
Less stick is best for traction & performance ..
One ring install is easy way to reduce the stick.
Trimming .030 off the cartridge is great because you still get the benefits two seals bring (less oil leak)....
10-15-2012 | 08:37 AM
Reason I advised to compare pushing the piston back forth inside the shock with no oil ?
Is to compare the stick the rings bring what ever brand you are using .
Less stick is best for traction & performance ..
One ring install is easy way to reduce the stick.
Trimming .030 off the cartridge is great because you still get the benefits two seals bring (less oil leak)....
Is to compare the stick the rings bring what ever brand you are using .
Less stick is best for traction & performance ..
One ring install is easy way to reduce the stick.
Trimming .030 off the cartridge is great because you still get the benefits two seals bring (less oil leak)....
Why would you do that?
10-15-2012 | 08:40 AM