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Old 10-10-2012 | 10:09 AM
  #21976  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
lol, rough was the track I went to saturday and subsequently left after a few practice laps. Looked like someone took a pick axe to the track. Broke my car 2x in 5 laps and left. I will not return. I know it is offroad, but as some point the track is too trashed to even be fun.
wow...where did you go? you can pm me if you dont want to post it here, just curious.
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Old 10-10-2012 | 10:14 AM
  #21977  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
lol, rough was the track I went to saturday and subsequently left after a few practice laps. Looked like someone took a pick axe to the track. Broke my car 2x in 5 laps and left. I will not return. I know it is offroad, but as some point the track is too trashed to even be fun.
Sounds like some of the city streets here in KC Mo.
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Old 10-10-2012 | 10:21 AM
  #21978  
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Finally got my big bores installed today, and like a few others I did not shave anything off either front/rear towers. I just used the spacers like stated in the directions but had to add some in the rear on the bottom to clear it from the turnbuckle......... Absolutely to binding/rubbing at all, I haven't had time to track test them yet but just by compressing them by hand etc they def. feel smoother then the v2 shocks. Still not sure if they are worth the 100+ bucks but I'll soon find out lol........ Currently running 1.6 pistons, with 30w front and avid reds with 27.5w and avid whites in rear..........
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Old 10-10-2012 | 10:31 AM
  #21979  
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Originally Posted by ilanstylz
Finally got my big bores installed today, and like a few others I did not shave anything off either front/rear towers. I just used the spacers like stated in the directions but had to add some in the rear on the bottom to clear it from the turnbuckle......... Absolutely to binding/rubbing at all, I haven't had time to track test them yet but just by compressing them by hand etc they def. feel smoother then the v2 shocks. Still not sure if they are worth the 100+ bucks but I'll soon find out lol........ Currently running 1.6 pistons, with 30w front and avid reds with 27.5w and avid whites in rear..........
If you use the same shock bushing stand off as the V2 ?

Shocks will be even smoother .

One extra .030 under the all shock bushings & grind just a little seems to be the best thus far .....


Also remember to still use two .030 on the rear shock on arm to prevent the camber link from rubbing the body ...

Last edited by Wild Cherry; 10-10-2012 at 10:46 AM.
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Old 10-10-2012 | 10:35 AM
  #21980  
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When do you use a closed cell foam vs an open cell ?
High bite only?
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Old 10-10-2012 | 10:40 AM
  #21981  
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I use closed cell on everything. std foam might be good on really really low bite surfaces. I just feel it's too squirmy. If I'm at the point where I feel my foam needs to be std in order to get traction, I would rather try a different tire.

Some people still like running std foams..... it's all comes down to what you prefer. I was always a guy who like really hard foam in the tires. I used to cram stadium truck foams in my tires back before their was different options LOL
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Old 10-10-2012 | 10:43 AM
  #21982  
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
I use closed cell on everything. std foam might be good on really really low bite surfaces. I just feel it's too squirmy. If I'm at the point where I feel my foam needs to be std in order to get traction, I would rather try a different tire.

Some people still like running std foams..... it's all comes down to what you prefer. I was always a guy who like really hard foam in the tires. I used to cram stadium truck foams in my tires back before their was different options LOL
+1 Tread life increases and that is good for club racing. Larger and more important events I will vary it depending on what is needed or traction level.
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Old 10-10-2012 | 10:44 AM
  #21983  
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
When do you use a closed cell foam vs an open cell ?
High bite only?
Like Bob said I have the same tires with closed and open cells in.
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Old 10-10-2012 | 10:49 AM
  #21984  
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
...you seem to have run your battery much further forward than I did.
I noticed that after cruising the pits and checking out everybody elses' cars. I'm going to experiment with moving it back towards the center tonight. I race on a smallish indoor track (little bigger than Critters) and it has served me pretty well. I'd like to take some of the weight out of the nose though.
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Old 10-10-2012 | 11:02 AM
  #21985  
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Has there been a consensus on using the FT aluminum upper bushings or replacing them with plastic for use with the big bores?
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Old 10-10-2012 | 11:06 AM
  #21986  
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Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta
I noticed that after cruising the pits and checking out everybody elses' cars. I'm going to experiment with moving it back towards the center tonight. I race on a smallish indoor track (little bigger than Critters) and it has served me pretty well. I'd like to take some of the weight out of the nose though.
aahh gotcha. I liked the way mine felt balanced. Try it. Just move it to where the battery is pretty much lined up with the UBrace. I don't have an exact measurement for you but it's very easy to eyeball.

Did you try short wheelbase this weekend? I tried it.... but it wasn't as quick for me.

after every change I made.... I ended up right back with the same exact setup on the car as when I got there LOL


One tip I will pass along to you guys.... after every run (or every other), pop your shocks off one at a time and check to see if they have rebound. If they do, rebleed them. This will let the pressure built up out and should remove the rebound. Gotta thank Jason Haas for that one. Since I started doing that (when I remember LOL) my car handles much more consistent. I also notice if I have a leak or a shock issue now much quicker.
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Old 10-10-2012 | 11:21 AM
  #21987  
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I fiddled with the wheelbase, but ended up going back to the middle in the rear. I did move the front hubs from middle to full down though, as I felt I was lacking forward bite. Looking back it's because of the battery position, and the amount of weight I run up front (Avid rack, 14g in the front bulkhead, and 14g under the servo arm). That was my first race in several months, so I'm a bit rusty, but it's coming back.
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Old 10-10-2012 | 11:25 AM
  #21988  
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
One tip I will pass along to you guys.... after every run (or every other), pop your shocks off one at a time and check to see if they have rebound. If they do, rebleed them. This will let the pressure built up out and should remove the rebound. Gotta thank Jason Haas for that one. Since I started doing that (when I remember LOL) my car handles much more consistent. I also notice if I have a leak or a shock issue now much quicker.
I normal bleed my shocks after every run but the new BB I dont think will work that way. The o-ring in the cap wont last long.
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Old 10-10-2012 | 11:55 AM
  #21989  
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Hideeho
Last weekend I did some testing of inserts & thought I would share the results. I had 3 sets of brand new never run green dd's all mounted on Rulux wheels. The inserts were (listed from softest to firmest): stock and1 inserts (no trimming), proline medium closed cell, & AKA red (all inserts were new also). My front tires for testing were AKA vectors (agressive).

I always seem to need a warm up before I get going well. I warmed up with nearly bald barcode fronts & rears (using bald tires for warm ups gets my trigger finger settled down for throttle control quicker). Once I got settled down & turning consistant laps I started actuall testing.

The track I'm running on is indoor HARD pack red clay that is rather rough. It has 2 spots that are very rough (turning onto & off of the main straight) due to having been blown out & repaired twice. The track was damp (not wet, no mud sticking by the time I started testing) & cool (60*-70* all day). The track never got to dry so the dust never got bad.

I started with the medium proline. They were terrible. I had more traction with the bald barcodes. To make matters worse, they were not predictable. One lap it would hook up, the next it would slide. Catching the slide was also more difficult. I had catch it VERY early or there was no coming back. I tested them again after the end of the race & got the same results.

Next I went with the AKA red. They were much better, but still not terribly impressive.

Finally I tried the stock and1 inserts. They were dialed! Supurb traction & very predictable slipping. I also had more straight line traction. These were the only inserts I was pulling wheelies with down the front straight. I WILL be stripping the other 2 & putting and1's back in them.

My guess about the results is because my track is hard packed & rough the softer inserts allows more flexability for the tire to conform to the track. I would expect on a very smooth surface the cc inserts will give a better result than they did for me.

I also tried some different tires. All were green compound with and1 inserts. First were Hybrids. They were decent, better than the dd's w/ AKA, but not quite there. Next were 3d's. Really liked these. If I didn't or couldn't get dd's I would be happy with these. The tires were not quite an apples to apples comparison as both the hybrids & 3d's had been run at a previous event at another track so they had about 2-3 runs on each. They were still in really good shape, but not new & un used like the dd's were at the start of the day.
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Old 10-10-2012 | 11:58 AM
  #21990  
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Just picked up a Dex210...gonna race it this weekend will see how it compares to my b4.1
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