RC10B4.1 FT/WC
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,578
Shaving the area indicated is to lower the mounting height of the ball stud. Your not trying to shave all raised areas to lower the height of the entire brace, just the area where the ball stud mounts. Leave everything else as is.
Before i can the stock hubs with 0-2mm spacing on the u brace and i couldn't get the car to stick right in the corners or feel right coming in and out of corners.
Sure the car doesn't rotate atleast on power as well but i just drive accordingly and it does what i need it too, it actually allows me to drive it more like a touring car feel and just relax and just let the car do the work but if i do need to drive strapped i can fling it into a corner with a lot more confidence then without the c hub and shaved u brace mod
The application of both the U-Hub and the A/B/C are all to control roll center, and roll center is a setup variable that has more to do with "feel" than anything else. Pretty much all setup characteristics in the car are affected by or will be affected by roll center.
It is very hard to say that one configuration is going to be best for ALL surfaces, and you have to realize, when a SoCal driver says "Low-Grip", many people from the mid-west would call that medium or high grip. Comparing a setup from one end to the spectrum to the other is going to be very difficult.
Rather than discuss which configuration is best, it is best to understand what the changes do, and if the car is not doing what you need, to learn what to do to fix it.
Don't give the man a fish, teach him to fish.
It is very hard to say that one configuration is going to be best for ALL surfaces, and you have to realize, when a SoCal driver says "Low-Grip", many people from the mid-west would call that medium or high grip. Comparing a setup from one end to the spectrum to the other is going to be very difficult.
Rather than discuss which configuration is best, it is best to understand what the changes do, and if the car is not doing what you need, to learn what to do to fix it.
Don't give the man a fish, teach him to fish.
yeah, I have tried it. It was not for me. But you are right, in most cases you really need to try the changes. The difference is when trying a change is costly, like shorties, big bore shocks and such.
ok, here's a change I would like to try, but cant afford. has any body ever tried 1c w/ 6000kv motor vs 2c w/ 2700kv vs 3c w/ 1800kv. All of these combos should turn 20000RPMs+/- but what is the difference in torque & run time (assumeing similar batteries)?
If I'm using the C tower and grip is really high I would use no washer. 95% of the time that I run the C tower I have 1 washer though.
With the A tower I run standard brace with 1 washer. Occasionally going to 2 washers if the grip is low.
The application of both the U-Hub and the A/B/C are all to control roll center, and roll center is a setup variable that has more to do with "feel" than anything else. Pretty much all setup characteristics in the car are affected by or will be affected by roll center.
It is very hard to say that one configuration is going to be best for ALL surfaces, and you have to realize, when a SoCal driver says "Low-Grip", many people from the mid-west would call that medium or high grip. Comparing a setup from one end to the spectrum to the other is going to be very difficult.
Rather than discuss which configuration is best, it is best to understand what the changes do, and if the car is not doing what you need, to learn what to do to fix it.
Don't give the man a fish, teach him to fish.
It is very hard to say that one configuration is going to be best for ALL surfaces, and you have to realize, when a SoCal driver says "Low-Grip", many people from the mid-west would call that medium or high grip. Comparing a setup from one end to the spectrum to the other is going to be very difficult.
Rather than discuss which configuration is best, it is best to understand what the changes do, and if the car is not doing what you need, to learn what to do to fix it.
Don't give the man a fish, teach him to fish.
Very low on punch, not very good run time, and gets the esc hot
I was wondering what the big differences are from the B4 to the B4.1. Also, do either of these sound like a good deal?
B4#1 (This guy does not want to part out, but it comes w/two brushless motors which saves me the step of finding another one.)
B4#2(Would need to buy a battery for this one)
LMK what you geniuses think.
B4#1 (This guy does not want to part out, but it comes w/two brushless motors which saves me the step of finding another one.)
B4#2(Would need to buy a battery for this one)
LMK what you geniuses think.

(I'm only asking you this as it appears you are from the south east, and I happen to be from the west, and I truly do not know how the southerners address their motors, that's all.).
Where you come from, do you or you're fellow racers ever use the terms 8.5,10.5,13.5 and 17.5? Please keep in mind that this question is a "yes or no" question, and not a kv explanation request, as I already know what they are all equivalent to.
(I'm only asking you this as it appears you are from the south east, and I happen to be from the west, and I truly do not know how the southerners address their motors, that's all.).
(I'm only asking you this as it appears you are from the south east, and I happen to be from the west, and I truly do not know how the southerners address their motors, that's all.).Yes, almost always. With this question I felt it more pertaining to the discussion to use kv rating for clarity. An 8.5t motor from company a may have 9000kv while 8.5t motor from company b may have 8500kv with company c's 8.5t having 8000kv, all of which would have a large impact on the results of my question if I only asked about the turns of the motor.





