Same thing happened to me last week. Right rear driveshaft broke right at the diff output during practice laps. It also damaged the diff outdrive cup on that side. I was driving it hard but nothing out of the ordinary......indoor clay track medium/high traction.

Rebuilt all the diffs, center had a chipped tooth on one of the internal gears but the front rear was fine....no signs of any damage.

Go to the Tekno site http://www.teknorc.com/ I see the shock shafts for the eb48 at a cost of $9.99 each. TKR6004 and TKR6017 If you put a T at the end of the part # it stands for TINI Coating at twice the price

Saw another ackerman arm break at the same spot mine did at the track today on a buddys buggy (rcmiket) and it wasnt a very big hit either . I really think this part might need to be looked at and beefed up a little .....

thanks. placed shock shaft order direct from tekno.
front shaft broke when i hit the end of an exposed 4'' pvc pipe in lap 2 of heat one. finished race with front mono shock.
9th out of ten buggies (20 total enter)
borrowed a losi 8 rear shock for the front,close in length worked ok. placed 7th out of ten in heat 2.
won the B-main from the pole and placed 7th out of 12 in the A-main.sr

In my fifth race week, I have my first breakage. I broke the ackerman plate like bashemsmashem. I think it is from hitting something at full lock steering. The servo saver is a little loose if anything. I also noticed the rear center diff cup is very worn. I was thinking how durable the drive train parts are on this car. On my Mugen, the drive shaft pins wore very fast. They only lasted a few race days. The cup on my EB48 must not have been hardened enough. It was fine 2 weeks ago, but is now worn to 3/4 of the pin thickness. I hope this is just a fluke. I really don't want a maintanence queen like my SC10 4x4!!!! Any thoughts on this Danny?

I need a little setup advice. Our track has a TON of traction, like I was watching 2wd buggies traction roll left and right. I am pretty happy with my setup, but I'd like a little more on power steering. I noticed that the really fast guys were able to blast through a sweeping turn alot harder than I could. Other than that I like how the setup feels. My thoughts are to try a stiffer sway bar in the rear, a stiffer rear spring, and possibly a stiffer front sway bar too.

Any suggestions?

First thing I would try is a little less front droop and maybe a little less rear droop. Try less front first, say 101-102mm.

This will increase on power steering since you transfer less weight to the rear, AND it will limit traction roll. Limiting droop is the first thing I do to stop traction roll assuming your tire selection is correct.

Just a note about a few things...

The Ackerman plates are breaking more than what we would like. We will be addressing the problem as soon as we can. We know it's an easy design fix, but we have to go through manufacturing etc before they will be available. As soon as we get them, we will make them available at a heavily discounted rate to anyone that has broken them. You will be required to email us a picture of the break and we will send you a coupon code.

The Ackerman plates aren't defective (i.e. it was manufactured to spec) and we tested the heck out of them before release. It takes a few hard hits to finally break, but obviously it can break easier than we anticipated .

We are also noticing that our outdrives are wearing a little faster than normal. This is most noticeable on the rear diff outdrives and also the rear diff coupler. We are working on a solution to this now, but it will be a few weeks or a couple months before we have a solid plan. We will get them out similar to the Ackerman plate plan above. You will need to provide a receipt of kit purchase and we will email you a coupon code good for a complete set of outdrives at a discounted rate.

The new parts will eventually make their way into the production kits but we don't have a timeline for that yet. Until the new parts filter through, we'll be following the procedures above. We will announce when the parts are in and when to start sending inquiries for the coupons.

We will make sure our dealers and distributors are aware of the issues and do our best to make sure they have current parts for their customers as well.

We are really happy with the overall durability of the EB48 so far which has also been expressed by our customers. We'll get these minor issues taken car of and continue to imporve the car as we go.

This is most likely caused by a worn diff outdrive. We just put up a message about this.

If your outdrives are worn and you don't want to get new ones right away, you can get more life out of them by grinding the drive pin slot out so it is smooth again. Basically, grind the rest of the outdrive face down to meet where it has been grooved out. This enlarges the slot a bit, but should work just fine until new parts are installed.

Chris,
What we need to know is if the guys are faster because you were traction rolling, or because your buggy pushed on power.
If it is pushing, remember that stiffening up the buggy will take away traction. On a sweeper, this would be counter-productive.
If it is traction-rolling, you need to loosen up the car during roll. Looser sway bars, and softer springs work in this situation as strange as it sounds (I used to race on-road) .
I feel that the buggy is slightly over-sprung stock. Maybe go one step softer all around to cure a roll.
Rather than buying a new rear sway bar, I would move the bar mounts in a little. Just be sure to measure each side and make them equal to cure a push.

BTW, I love the Kyosho T-Plate you make
How about making a stronger Ackerman bar for the EB48????

How "tight" should the diff ring and pinion gears be? Mine has started to become louder after a few runs, but I know the bevel gears run a bit louder than the spiral gears I am used to. If I hold the diff still at the out drives, there is a little play when you turn the diff pinion. I'd say maybe 1/16" or so. The front has about half that amount of play. Is it time to shim the diff over a little, or am I still within tolerance?

Legthen the wheelbase, remove droop. That should help a ton. Longer wheelbase rotates better and taking droop out will reduce overall bite by limiting the distance the car can roll over. Makes it stay more flat.

Try another shim in there.

Tekno, thanks for the update on ackerman plate and outdrives

It still amazes me that you guys come on this thread, listen to your customers, and implement requests and changes so rapidly. Completely above and beyond IMO, but maybe it should be the new norm.

I'm just shooting out some ideas since I don't know what steel material you guys are using for the outdrives. but have you tried water quench hardening the current production outdrives? It maybe worth a shot until the new production lots are available.

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