I'm not knocking your style, but IMO running two stick packs is a pain and unless it's a setup like the durango's where you run the packs on separate parts of the chassis, I don't think it's worth it. (coming from saddle pack experience with the AE 4x4 SCT)

You pretty much have to charge them and use them as if they were one pack anyway, might as well just get them pre-wired with a deans. Now if you already have the packs and want to reuse then go for it.

I've been running the SMC 6500 in my RC8.2, I hope it balances well in the EB48

Well, I ran electric buggy for almost 2 years and went through many 4s packs. They just don't seem to be able to handle the abuse. It isn't from cells dying so much as connections breaking within the packs. 2s packs are a lot sturdier.

Is there any reason to charge them as a 4s pack instead of separately?

I'm not completely sold on the 2s route and could definitely be convinced to go back to 4s. I also need a new charger and that decision dictates which charger I get. If I go with 2s packs then I'll get a 4 port charger. If I get 4s packs then I'll get a more powerful 2 port charger.

I have been toying with the idea of taking a pair of shortys and drilling them out so I can pin them together to make a 4s shorty pack. Not only would they be lighter, they would also allow for me to play with weight placement.

smc has a new 4s shorty

Actually now that I think about it I may have been wrong. I know when your pack is wired in parallel your supposed charge them as if they were one pack and should not let one get worn out faster than the other, but not sure if it's as big of a deal when wired in series assuming you keep them balanced to the same voltage.

yeah, that new SMC 4S Shorty has me toying with the idea of a light buggy

Yea those might be just right for this buggy. I ran a Protek 4600 in my RC8.2 for a while and got 10min mains no problem. Only reason I went so big last time was that it was the smallest race formula they offered in 4s at the time.

Well, picked up a .2 kit yesterday afternoon. Started building, few things I love, few things I don't.

Without reading through 673 pages, anything to look out for as I continue my build.

I'm building it with the Barry Baker OCRC setup (that's the only track I run at these days).

So stoked on building a kit, it's been too long!

That's basically what I've been running, Barrys set ups work very well for me. I built mine with no issues what so ever. Good luck!

Hi Tekno, it would be more than awesome if Chad Paneks setup could be posted either here or on your site? Thanks for your help!

You have any idea how close you just came to costing me $190!!!

if you want a light buggy wouldt you do the super light conversion sct to buggy

Just a bit of advice to people thinking of drilling through their battery terminals to run a double male adaptor. If the terminal is blind I.e. Has a bottom to it, when you drill it the drill bit will snag up twist the terminal and break the wire soldered to it. To repair this you will have to cut open the case and re solder it back on if you want the battery to work again. I have found some actually have a through terminal (no bottom) so when you drill it you are only passing through the case on the bottom side, just check before you try it.

speaking of lipos
I have 3 4s lipos with 2 race days on them
i always store after racing
i went to charge them this past weekend and they only show 3 cells!!!!
does that mean that the little sensor side wires have com un-soldered inside the case?
im deathly afraid of opening up to look! anybody have suggestions?

Do I HAVE to use the shims when assembling the eb48.2 diff into the gearbox? I tried for over 20min to fit both shims but there was just no room. One and sometimes both would be all bent out of shape when I place the other half of the gearbox together. No strange noise and drive pinion / diff action feels smooth with one shim on just now. At this point I am telling myself that with use the gearbox will wear and I will need the extra shim. (I repeated so many times last night it might even be true now )

Also I don't understand why the bump stop washers go where they are shown in the instruction. Why are they between the bolt head and the ball of the ball joint rather than between the ball and the steering rack? Or would that then be affecting ackermann rather than bump stop? I'm confused. TIA for anyone who can school me on this.