Tekno RC EB48 Thread
Tech Regular
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 367
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Tech Adept
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 126
p23 of the downloaded manual, TKR1445 button head screw + washer was partially screwed into the motor plate before mounting. In the addendum they tell you not to install the button head screw + washer until the motor is ready to be secured to the chassis motor mount.
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 367
but it's only because of of the threadlock isn't it? so it won't get dry?
and where can i find a .2 bearing chart?
Tech Regular
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 367
Oh, and a setup question,
i run my .2 on a loose dusty bumpy outdoor track, and the stock feels a little loose in the rear and a bit like a monster truck in the sense that it bounces in the bumps.
i moved the rear shock one hole inner on the tower, and the camber link one hole below. i felt an improvement with the shock, but i dont know if i did the right thing with the camber link.
what else can i do the help lock-in the rear? should i go 3K in the rear diff?
and about the bounciness, do i need a heavier oil in the shocks?
the stock oils are about 35 front and 30 rear in AE oils right? so if i go 40 and 35, will it help?
i run my .2 on a loose dusty bumpy outdoor track, and the stock feels a little loose in the rear and a bit like a monster truck in the sense that it bounces in the bumps.
i moved the rear shock one hole inner on the tower, and the camber link one hole below. i felt an improvement with the shock, but i dont know if i did the right thing with the camber link.
what else can i do the help lock-in the rear? should i go 3K in the rear diff?
and about the bounciness, do i need a heavier oil in the shocks?
the stock oils are about 35 front and 30 rear in AE oils right? so if i go 40 and 35, will it help?
Tech Regular
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 367
That could help, as well as going with more rear toe. before I got ahold of the 1.5+ rear hingepin brace, to get the rear end to stick I had to go down to 2K rear diff fluid, and I run lower position on the shock tower for the camber link as well as a short link based on what I was able to gather from Mark Pavadis setup instructions. On the dustbowl conditions here it really helped, enough that I didn't even more the 1.5+ hingepin brace I have sitting here lol.
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,546
From: Northern VA
I'm about to order one of these cars to get back into electric. I have a question regarding batteries. Due to bad luck having 4s packs hold up, I want to go the 2x 2s route. Does anyone have any pics or comments on this setup?
One nice thing I have seen with the new 5mm plug packs is that they have a pass through. I had promatch make me a male to male adapter so You can plug them together and then just run one set of wires without all the funny wire jumping around business, sort of like a saddle pack.
One nice thing I have seen with the new 5mm plug packs is that they have a pass through. I had promatch make me a male to male adapter so You can plug them together and then just run one set of wires without all the funny wire jumping around business, sort of like a saddle pack.
right now I am using 7200mah IP lipos from promatch as that is what I use for my Tekno SCT410. I am however looking to buy some dedicated 4S packs in the future.
Promatch also sells 6000mah packs with the same pass thru as well.
Promatch also sells male to male bullets as well.
Promatch also sells 6000mah packs with the same pass thru as well.
Promatch also sells male to male bullets as well.



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