RC10B4.1 FT/WC
09-07-2012 | 08:48 AM
ok, for those switching to hex up front, I found some low profile 8/32 lock nuts at ace for 20 cents each. Here is a pic. the one on the right was from ace.
By lhelmrich at 2012-09-05
By lhelmrich at 2012-09-05
09-07-2012 | 08:56 AM
Tech Regular
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 298
From: Redmond, WA
Short nuts like the ones on the B44? You can get the blue anodized ones from AE, but my friends and I run short and tall castle nuts from McMaster. Similar lock nuts should be available at any store specializing in fasteners, probably for less than Ace.
09-07-2012 | 09:28 AM
Tech Regular
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 275
it tightend up .i just snugged it to test the bearings and free spin cause i dont have the right axle nuts yet,i didnt get too crazy with the set screw on the clamping hex i just tightend it up and then tightend the wheel ..but what your sayin makes scense ..i hadnt thought about that.thnks
09-07-2012 | 09:40 AM
Tech Regular
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 275
09-07-2012 | 10:20 AM
yeah, but a little pricy. I prefer 80 cents at ace to almost $14
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Nut-Set-Blue-4
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Nut-Set-Blue-4
09-07-2012 | 10:38 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (39)
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,293
From: Henderson, NV
i got a dumb question..when converting to hex's on the front end of the b4.1 and using clamping style hexs (avid in my case) is there any reason to run a roll pin thru the axle? like there is no drive to make them slip and it seems to be attached well with out it..i didnt see any mention of them in the required parts list for conversion..thnks in advance..oh and is there any options when it comes to a low profile front axle nut.all new tires and hexs ready to go and none of my lhs's have the associated ASC9880,,any thing else or another brands nut work dialed? 
http://www.fastener-express.com/nylo...-aluminum.aspx
09-07-2012 | 10:45 AM
Tech Regular
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 298
From: Redmond, WA
How about these from mcmaster.com (search the part numbers)?
90633A009 - Zinc-plated nylon-insert lock nuts - $0.023 each.
90101A009 - Stainless nylon-insert lock nuts - $0.0852 each.
We usually run the much more expensive "expanding" lock nuts...
94830A490 - Cadmium-plated - $0.442 each.
94140A490 - Stainless - $1.276 each (pricey).
In all cases, I've started using loctite pretty regularly, especially on the thin front nuts. Rears can go a few race days between re-application, but fronts have so little to grab on, it's just safer to use more.
90633A009 - Zinc-plated nylon-insert lock nuts - $0.023 each.
90101A009 - Stainless nylon-insert lock nuts - $0.0852 each.
We usually run the much more expensive "expanding" lock nuts...
94830A490 - Cadmium-plated - $0.442 each.
94140A490 - Stainless - $1.276 each (pricey).
In all cases, I've started using loctite pretty regularly, especially on the thin front nuts. Rears can go a few race days between re-application, but fronts have so little to grab on, it's just safer to use more.
09-07-2012 | 10:50 AM
yeah, but a little pricy. I prefer 80 cents at ace to almost $14
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Nut-Set-Blue-4
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Nut-Set-Blue-4
09-07-2012 | 10:52 AM
How about these from mcmaster.com (search the part numbers)?
90633A009 - Zinc-plated nylon-insert lock nuts - $0.023 each.
90101A009 - Stainless nylon-insert lock nuts - $0.0852 each.
We usually run the much more expensive "expanding" lock nuts...
94830A490 - Cadmium-plated - $0.442 each.
94140A490 - Stainless - $1.276 each (pricey).
In all cases, I've started using loctite pretty regularly, especially on the thin front nuts. Rears can go a few race days between re-application, but fronts have so little to grab on, it's just safer to use more.
90633A009 - Zinc-plated nylon-insert lock nuts - $0.023 each.
90101A009 - Stainless nylon-insert lock nuts - $0.0852 each.
We usually run the much more expensive "expanding" lock nuts...
94830A490 - Cadmium-plated - $0.442 each.
94140A490 - Stainless - $1.276 each (pricey).
In all cases, I've started using loctite pretty regularly, especially on the thin front nuts. Rears can go a few race days between re-application, but fronts have so little to grab on, it's just safer to use more.
09-07-2012 | 11:00 AM
R/C Tech Elite Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,583
So I am trying that anodizing thing and it's not working. I got one to work but now they are just going in the same color they came out (dark gray) any idea what I am doing wrong?
I have the negative wire on the turnbuckle positive in the simple green (no dolited). I have it for I have 81Volts to get the shiny gold. I even checked it with the volt meter to make sure its 81 volts and it is. I wrap it on the tip of the turnbuckle put it in right before the wire touches leave until bubbles stop or 35 seconds. And then pull out, but nothing happens?
What am I doing wrong?
I have the negative wire on the turnbuckle positive in the simple green (no dolited). I have it for I have 81Volts to get the shiny gold. I even checked it with the volt meter to make sure its 81 volts and it is. I wrap it on the tip of the turnbuckle put it in right before the wire touches leave until bubbles stop or 35 seconds. And then pull out, but nothing happens?
What am I doing wrong?
Check this -> http://www.rcten.com/threads/how-to-...nbuckles.1389/
09-07-2012 | 11:25 AM
09-07-2012 | 11:31 AM
You know I never thought of that but it makes perfect sense. I can't remember how many times I've change out my front rims at home or the track and had a bearing or two get away from me only to go rolling all over the place and me chasing after it. Not a good sight for a big guy to be crawling on the ground looking under pit tables lol.....