Stick pack Exo:
Indoor I run blue front and yellow rear, tried the red didn't really like it (didn't like the front spring on the rear either).
Blownout outdoor I will go to yellow front & red rear with 5wt thicker oil in the shocks. Raise the ride height a couple mm from indoor setting. I keep a spare set of shocks for that situation.

fq06:

Right now, believe it or not, I am running about 1/2 oz on both sides of the servo AND both sides on the rear!

I ordered 4 little digital scales from Amazon and they will be here in a few days. I will then adjust to make the weight distribution correct. The reason I had loaded up so much weight was because I was having a hell of a time with the rear end sliding out, but I think now that I have the c-diff, problems like that should be gone anyhow. I was also getting tossed around everytime a losi so much as banged fenders with me, hence the weight overload.

Oh, to answer your other question, (how is it flying) it depends. Sometimes nose up, sometimes not. I am still working on my driving so I can't really rule out driver error. I just know it's not stable like my 1/8 buggy, and from what I can gather, the losi's are stable like 1/8 buggies.

The losi is basically an 1/8 scale

Put a couple 180 turn's on the layout , it will be slow ...

Try running a strip of weight down the center and getting rid of the weight in the rear. Maybe part of it on the esc side of the esc tray and the rest of it on the lipo side of the chassis center wall of the rear chassis.

The scales are tricky. You can use them to balance the chassis or the suspension but not at the same time. To balance chassis corner weights you need to lock out any movement from the shocks or even make rods that are the same length as your shocks would be at static ride height (L&R same length).
If your shocks and the spring setting come into the equation that is an outside influence on the actual weight balance of the chassis.

Once you have the chassis balanced you can put your shocks back on and corner balance the spring adjustment to balance the suspension.

You can have a chassis thats all out of whack and corner balance with the springs but you won't be anywhere near correct. You are just adjusting the springs to compensate for an unbalanced chassis.

The losi absolutely flies more stable for the reason you stated, but the AE can be setup to fly just about as well with a well balanced chassis and setup.

On the launch I have pulled some throttle back and not at wide open throttle at the lip. You may be getting chassis slap holding wide open all the way through and that will throw your truck all kinds of bad ways that nothing can fix.

I run 20 grams upfront with exotek and it jumps nice. For big long .jumps it will jump level then nose down. It'll nose down for smaller jumps, and you can throttle it up to pick up the nose.

I run 5 on drag brake on my rx8. Hope that helps.

I was reading Cameron's post about the camber link and the roll center..
I have had the 8mm mod since almost day one of my truck. I believed that raising the link was better for high grip.. When infact the ae engineer states the opposite.
Now I see why rm did not run it at the reedy race. My track Varies in traction throughout the day but is usually medium to higher traction (clay). But can be low ad well. (not as often)
Now I am thinking about removing and trying standard.
What do you guys think.? Wc you are well versed in trcr clay?

traction is already on the strong side at TRCR


So think you will need the 8mm mod for now ...


When layout is fresh ,dusty & low grip ?
Should be a good time to use the standard hub & camber ....

That ae tech said 8mm for low traction, standard for high traction?

http://www.rctech.net/forum/10640989-post22028.html

The Ae tech I go by is BK as the 8mm is his creation ....

Was lucky and discussed the mod with him personally at the ShowDown...

The whole idea behind the 8mm mod is the truck has a lot of traction and rolls easily.

You get a little less traction & roll with 8mm , so on sweepers the truck does not dig end so hard & slides instead ...

That's what I thought, which makes sense. More body roll should let you drive harder and faster in corners.
confusing this morning. Need more coffee
It has been working great for me so far as is.
Yea bk knows what he's doing.

I have no idea ids the AE engineer was right or wrong, but on a loose surface with the 8mm, my rear end skated more. And when the traction came up it traction rolled a lot less than without the mod. I personal experience is that it does help reduce traction rolls and on loose surfaces it causes the rear to skate more. not really spin out, as it felt controlled. But I didnt like it on loose surfaces.

was wondering the same thing.

right now I guess for me personally I am going with 8mm for higher traction to prevent traction rolling, standard for when grip is needed.

I am curious though, has anyone played with any kind of mods to lengthen the links beyond stock to generate more traction?

I ran the bk and it had shorter links.
Traction was the same I felt. Back to Cody's and I like it te best so far

just like someone else said, 8mm mod made things worse in looser low grip conditions.

putting washers on studs does the job.