I put the weight (24gram) there with a Pro 4 and my Truck was tipping in the air like crazy. Took it out, flew great. Just an FYI

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXK204&P=7 - Any 'real' Hobby Shop should have this.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCKT0&P=7 - If you're 'that' kind of guy.

V2 still wobbles. (didn't really matter in V1 either but don't expect it to be like a VTS)

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With the Exotek, I put 20 grams on either side of the servo (40 total in front) and left it like that. I think it's excellent but maybe a little more would be better. Not sure just yet

Im gonna try the locker setup the V1 puts a lot of pressure on the topshaft. If this dont work ill get the V2.

Slight wobble is there when static and moving by hand but once it is under power I don't see lateral movement in mine. Thicker thrust spacer and bearing may have had something to do with reducing the wobble, not sure.

Anyway, $16 and you may be done. Or buy the vts & cover then add the exotek taking more $ out of your pocket. If you don't like it you can get at least $30 out of it in the FS forum and put that money into plan B.

I got a mac the knife twin clutch basket which looks to work the same as the vts.

Right on, a lot of people like the exotek part.

For the top shaft, I have not had an issue and I had it installed the week V2's started shipping.

Those pins in the V2 (I am assuming from memory on the V1) will give you that punch back. that was one of the main things they fixed on the V2 versus V1.

Had one too. works great. pretty much the same kind of idea. If you have that and are thinking of the VTS, you probably don't need it.

i have the locker, but i stopped using it. but no c-diff for me so maybe it performs different without. my vts felt a little more consistent without it. if i had no vts it would probably be of more value to me.

thanks for the answers on the exotek chassis guys. i puicked one up for cheap from a guy in here last night less than 1/2 price!. cant wait to try it. ill do a little report next week after i test it.

There is a V2 upgrade kit for the center dif that cures the punch issues. The spur wobbling is because it floats, doesnt effect anything, all ball difs do it.

http://www.rcshox.com/sc10cdif-v1-v2-upgrade/

not sure if it was mentioned but keep in mind that you may need to go up a spring rate on the rear, at least, that is what I found from searching on here.

When you get the new chassis in, pull your weight out and start over.
Tie dental floss fishing line or whatever to the under cover mounts or chassis brace mounts and pick it up with your lipo in.
Balance it left to right by adding weight left of the servo.

You will like the exo, adding weight to the outside of the chassis is better than none, but the exo's weight is more centered and that's where it should be.

Can I get a refresher lesson on the pins (I know it's been discussed before, but I can't find where)?

I am running 4 pins right now and it seems to be running great. But if I need to adjust for track conditions, under what circumstances would you want more or less pins? Or, put another way, add or remove pins when the truck is doing what?

I am using the exo chassis AND extra weight. Truck drives great, but still having a tad bit of a problem keeping it level and stable on the really big jumps so the Losi's are getting an advantage on me there as I am single jumping places they are doubling.

That's what I was thinking, starting over with the weight placement. That was the process I did first time around.

Cain, thanks for the spring tip but I'm done with that thing. haha

Can't wait to try the hunk of metal! I figure if I don't like it, no big deal as I got a sweet deal on it. Well see tho as my truck is feeling pretty dialed

Think of adding pins the same as running a thicker fluid in a center gear diff.

Less pins allows it to "diff out" or send the power to the end with the least traction. Exiting a turn on power shifts the weight to the back and you have less traction in the front. The power will move to the front giving you understeer.

Insert more pins and the power is distributed more evenly front to back and you will have more oversteer.

I run 6 pins most everywhere but will go to 8 on occasion outdoor low bite when the front is not holding the line.

Where's the weight? Left of the servo?

Launching nose up or down? The landing will only be as good as the launch so set up correctly and the rest of the jump will flow.

Losi's usually have an advantage on jumps that are right at the exit of a turn. They put the power down and dont slip. Try more pins to get more drive up the face of the jump. Try 10 then 8 then 6 and see what suits you. Maybe its 7 pins.
(tip for removing pins: push down on one side of the spur and a few pins will pop out, grab it with a needle nose)

There were jumps I had to take a wide line for to build momentum to make, changed to the V2 C-diff on the same layout and I could punch it from a stand still and back side it.
Losi's were holding a tight line and the AE's went wide to make it. You lost a lot of ground if you double singled that section because the backside was into a short straight.
Going wide opened up the door for the losi to turn in on you for a pass.