I have owned alot of buggies and the Serpent is just awesome. Quality is second to none and it drives and jumps amazing. You do have to work on the setup to get it to your driving style but once you get it there you will not be dissapointed. Great buggy as I have 2 of them. If I was going to go with another buggy it would be the Tekno EB48 but for now I am really enjoying the 811E.

I run the kit 16th pinion and stock spur with a 1900. 20 seems a bit steep. I want to bump up to a 2050 maybe I should just try a 17th.

Great car though. I am actually faster with the e buggy than the nitro. I have owned a few e and nitro buggy pairs and this e buggy is my fav. I just built one for a buddy that came form a k car and he absolutely loves the serpent. He kept asking me how it could do what it does. Idk it just does

Well, my only complaint with the car is that the plastic is so hard I strip a screw every weekend. It gets really annoying, and I even tried oil on the screws but it didnt help. And on top of that I decided to buy a tony's screw skit for it and now ive stripped several of those. So for all people who are new to the serpent buy a nice quality set of hex drivers like losi. And and possibly get the tonys screws. Other than that I agree with everything else everyone saying.

The Serpent is a great car. I have mine working extremely well and it was not hard to get it there. Out of the box it was real good. My track is a little on the loose side so i got rid of the anti squat and that helped drastic amounts. You will love the car. Its a tank as it just doesnt break. I have both the Serpent and the EB-48. Both are killer cars.

Anyone do some 1/8 Late Model Dirt Oval? Electric or Nitro?

If any of you are interested, I received my shipment of 2S LiPo packs today. I started a thread on here for them under BMI Venom race packs. CHeck them out and let me know if you are interested.

I have totally stripped down my Serpent around 10 times this year, and lots of setup- and maintanancework in between, and I have yet to strip a screw or thread. In my book Serpents plastic and screws are better than most of the other brands out there and far better than the Mugen I drove last year.

As with all mechanical work, the tools is the key to a succesful job, and if you have substandard tools you will brake something.

Built my third Cobra last night (and my first Be) and I have used AE black grease on the turnbuckles of the last two and it works like a charm! Just add a small dab on the first thread and you're in turnbuckle heaven!

^ ditto on the grease for screws in plastic. I used the white grease that came with the kit, the stuff I guess you put on the 'outside' of the diffs crown gears and pinions. There is plenty of the white grease, and putting it on screws made them go in SO MUCH EASIER!

Missed the latest round of the Norcal Series today.. i hate getting sick, weather is cold now too for some lame reason..

I'll have to catch up with all the latest action while sitting at work on Monday, lol

Well, 2nd race with the 811E and a 3rd place finish. I couldn't be happier with the buggy. I have ran this buggy twice and the first time was a couple weeks ago at the Futaba E Challenge and finished 4th and now got a 3rd at a big trophy race yesterday. I would highly recommend this buggy to anyone in the market for a top notch E buggy. This buggy flies flatter than any I have ever driven.

New lower price on the battery straps. :-)

When Building the kit (and I have built quite a few) I found out that the best way is to tap the hard plastic holes, where the screw is going to tighten, about 2/3rd the way in no more. also I ream out the holes where the screw will just pass through. this makes is very easy to put the car together and it doesnt loosen up. If you do it right then with the power tool I have I can tighted down the screws at torque setting at 8 and loosen at 10. I also replace all the plastic nuts with aluminium locknuts.

I use the following items to build our cars;

3.02 curved reamer
M3, M4 and M5 L+R Taps.
High Quality hand tools - we use Xceed powertool bits
Torque adjustable power tool ( we use one that is Li-ion powered and can work while being charged.)

When Building diffs, I tap 1/2 of the hole with M3 Tap and then drill a hole from the other end with a 1mm drill bit so that any oil that gets in the screw hole gets ejected from the other side and doesnt cause any hydrolic locking.

if any questions feel free to ask.

Is any body running their buggy with shorty packs and if so what tips can you give me? Thanks.

Well packs are lighter? But only good for short Qualifiers, in the uk we run5/6 mins, so ok and you can only get 4400/4200 Mah ones. Stuck for Mah.

noone uses them here as we have 10 min qualifiers.

This buggy is hard to beat takes adjustments very well it gets better the more time it gets on it and you cant hardly break it,seen the new tekno this weekend broke on a jump the serpent would have laughed at.