SC10 4x4 Thread
soooo. I just spent 1.5 hours changing the shims in my front diff...........I will never change diff fluid at the track, this is kinda retarded. With practice I am sure I would get faster and with a power screw driver even faster. But wowzers. Anyway. The .5mm seemed to fit fine. But truth be told the original shims seemed pretty tight. No metal in my diff and near excessive wear that I could see. The .5mm shim fit fine. Maybe a tad tight. I think .4mm is probably the sweet spot. but the .5mm went in easy mode. No binding that I could see and the front wheels spun free without the belt attached. I am not motivated to do the rear diff tonight, I will do it when I change the diff fluid, lol.
I salute you sir !!!!
Even takes me about a hour ...
You may want the outerwears filter / cover thing instead. Lets it breath but keeps a lot of the crap off from what people say. Its up there in price, but, from what I have seen on other vehicles I have had with it, its definitely worth a look.
Im looking at getting one come summer time next year. A great deal of the outdoor tracks in MI get a lot of crap inside the truck, hence a demand for the covers. Im just trying to think of a way to mod one to work with my 2wd SC (X-Factory SCX-60 CF).
I use one on mine and it works pretty well. Takes some extra trimming to get it to fit over the FT center brace. I have a fan mounted above my motor and the cover doesn't actually cover it with the way everything is laid out in my truck.
Posted this a week or so ago but I use this when I'm running outdoors. Obviously it does not keep everything out, but it cuts the crud way down, does not restrict cooling air flow and costs $0.
Left over lexan from a new body.
Left over lexan from a new body.
well my buddy just bought a new 4x4 kit not ft team version tho but he got the normal kit for $100 brand new! so jealous at the moment... asked me to build it because I've been wrenching on this truck since it came out.. with all tips I've learned on this thread i wish i had the cash flow to pick up a fresh kit.. the truck drives so nice and tight and cant even hear it going down the straight.. question is.. i got my kit when it the truck was first released.. is it worth it to buy a new ft team kit? or just keep on dumping money into this one? ive done a quick over look at my truck and looks like i need new front/rear cva's.. thats the only thing that looks super beat up..
Yeah, I suspect the front wheels kick a lot of the debris into the chassis, I can see how that might help.
Thanks AZ. I have made sure the Idler and Diff is installed correctly (it is). And I don't have any wear on the outside of the case. But I will check the pulley. Now that I think about it, I have seen some wear on the slipper hub, just can't remember where at the moment. I'll check that when I get home from work tonight.
On a side note on this, I looked at another racer's truck at the track this past weekend. His was the same as mine, tires don't spin freely once slipper spring is tightened. He was given his truck by a professional racer too, so I'm sure it was built correctly. So this may be nothing, but I'm going to keep checking stuff till I'm satisfied, like the pulley tonight.
On a side note on this, I looked at another racer's truck at the track this past weekend. His was the same as mine, tires don't spin freely once slipper spring is tightened. He was given his truck by a professional racer too, so I'm sure it was built correctly. So this may be nothing, but I'm going to keep checking stuff till I'm satisfied, like the pulley tonight.
I was reshimming my front diff last night and was thinking of you. lol. When I work on the drive line, I check for binding every step of the way. I think you said the rear is binding. I checked my front and it was free rolling. But I remembered something while I was checking it. The tranny screws should have a washer on them to limit how far they go in. If they go too far they will rub on the pulley or other near by moving parts. I will be taking off my rear pulley when I install my exotek clutch locker and I will see if mine was like yours. In the general case, when ever you build a car, always check every moving part for smoothness all the way through the build. Hinge pins, shocks, tranny and etc. This is why I hate buying used cars. I have no idea what yahoo stuff the previous owner did to the car. I always end up tearing the used car down and fixing everything they did wrong. Anyway, check to make sure the tranny screws dont extrend past flush on the motor plate.



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