Yeah I'm going to tray change out the idler gear thanks, I've adjusted the gear mesh so many times and its still the same. I might just swap out the belt as well.........

anyone in here wanting to buy a sc10 4x4 factory team?

if something is causing the mesh to be off, other then just setting it wrong, no matter how many times you reset it, it wont change.



is where dirt can be trapped and change the squareness.

Thanks I'll check that as well, I'm going to teardown my sc10 and give it a complete overhaul...........

Arms level is just a easy place to set ride height, if you have a number you want to run do that rather than making the arms level.

Ps...Drop to a green or white front spring in the rear unless you are running an Exotek chassis or a lot of weight. The blue fronts are way too stiff unless you have a stiffer than yellow front spring on...My opinion anyways.

still having issues , did complete tear down of sc seems the speed is down about 50% is it possible the belt is stretched , do i need to tighten slipper and clicker all the way, almost everything is new on sc ant help , thanks again

If you have center diff yes, otherwise is check your pads, and electronics

Full VTS Garodiscs.

With the truck off the ground, hold one wheel at a time and give it a bit of throttle. Each wheel should spin with the same force. If one wheel doesn't feel like it's getting power, you are losing half your power to that wheel when you are accelerating. You could be missing a pin from one of your CVDs.

Next thing is to take the slipper off and sand the pads to remove any glazing. glazed pads will kill your accelleration and if you are testing on grass, top speed will be much lower too.

Failing that, pull the pinion off and give the truck a push with your foot...a good firm push should get 10 feet or more before the truck stops rolling. If it stops in 5 feet, you have binding somewhere.

Check the 3 screws that hold each gearbox together..overtightening any one of them can bind up the gearbox or bind the slipper/clicker if the screw is sticking out too far
Check that you haven't overtightened your wheel nuts (if you are running a non-FT truck with plastic wheel hexes)

Check that your belt isn't too tight....

If you still have binding at that point, I would take the belt off and roll just the front on the ground, then compare that to rolling just the rear on the ground....that should give you an indication of which end is binding...or binding the worst.

Look for bent a bent CVD.
If the binding is in the rear, look at the axel carrier where the bearing holds the pin into the CVD. A friend of mine managed to put the truck together with the pin partially out, and it bound up that CVD against the bearing.

Next you might have to take the gearboxes apart...
Check that your idle gears and diffs are installed with the proper orientation.
Check that your diffs are properly assembled...if the cover isn't tightened down equally, the diff case will bind against the gearbox.

so i raced last night after ive done a lot of things to the truck.. the truck felt way better than before! but the truck still felt pretty loose in the rear.. i have the c hub tower with 7mm on the inside ballstud.. with 20k in the front with 5k in the rear. with yellow sway in the front with blue in the rear.. yellow springs all around with 1.2 shock pistons with 30 in the front and 25 in the rear.. truck still wanted to kick out in the rear when coming out of turn into a big triple.. i couldn't really get the truck to square up properly.. also running 0 ballstuds in the front..

so my conclusion im going to the track again today to do more testing.. i want to get this truck dialed too so i can prove everyone wrong that this truck can actually drive!

so what should i do to improve handling and consistency? go up on fluid in the diffs or shock oil? should i add one more ballstud to make it really 8mm?

one more thing happened yesterday that pissed me off was my lrp4.5 just took a dump on me for no reason put the tekin 4 pole in.. holy smokes. hello torque! super smooth and runs way cooler!!! if anyone is on the fence on getting a new motor i would recommend the tekin 4600.

Maybe I am not undestanding how the raising of the ball stud is supposed to work, but I thought we raised it it help prevent traction roll. If you keep going with more height under the stud, wouldn't that also cause it to be loose in the rear?

Again, I could be wrong here, just going off what I exeperience prior to raising the stud.

Two things i think might help your issues. Torque =wheel spin so im saying u need to go up in rear diff fluid. Add some ball studs up front. 1.1 piston in the rear with a small limiter in side. Maybe go down innspur And like 24000 in the front loosen the slipper a bit too. Weight under the spur and under the servo kinda right side to balance the motor maybe up on pinon a tooth and bump uP oils in da shocks braddah

Snafu,

Real simple questions here and you have probably checked a 1000 times on them.

Is the idler gear and main diff installed in the correct direction? Both have a ridge and I am wondering if the idler were put in with the ridge on the slipper side would it cause a bind when things get tightened.

Second question is on the thrust washers and bearings. You said this is for both the V2 C-Diff and factory slipper. Is there any wear on the outside of the case where the thrust assembly goes that looks like it would be caused by the inner washer rubbing? If so the stepped thrust spacer or the blue spacer included with the c-diff may be too thin or worn in some odd way. Just to make sure the c-diff is installed correctly here is the link.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/10600508-post878.html

Last is the belt pulley. I am running the STRC aluminum pulleys and have noticed on the original AE slipper, v1 C-Diff and v2 c-diff that it will rub slightly on the inner slipper hub. There is actually a ring worn around the inside of the slipper hub where the pulley has worn off the anodizing. I have not noticed the problem when I run the VTS Slipper so have chalked it up to tolerances being a bit different between the systems. In any case, the pulley does not bind in my rig so much as it just slightly rub but perhaps yours is a bit different.

Good luck on this!

Jason

Just to give you guys a heads up on how loud my slipper setup is here is a video of it at WCRC from yesterday.....

It's the blue/red sct you'll see come in towards the bottom at around 40 seconds into the video, oh and sorry but the video is kind of long so no need to watch the whole thing.

+ YouTube Video

Ian,
even a small bit of wear on the pinion or spur can cause massive noise. Try a new pinion and spur and see if it goes away. I assume you have it meshed well. Check your belt tension too. I made mine tight one time and it was pretty noisy.