Wow WC! You were right about the two paper gaskets per diffs. My diffs are butter smooth now.

LOL! But Cherry, everyone at my track with more experience has a Losi! (I've actually had 4 different people try to convince me to switch....our RD even had me drive his Losi in the Main last time out....)

Last year, I was one of 4 AE trucks at my track, with a Rango, an Ofna, a Slayer Pro converted to electric, 2 Slash 4x4s, and I think 4 or 5 Losis....

Every other AE truck is gone....the Slayer is gone....all went to Losi....

I can't wait to get my AE to the track again and beat everyone that switched...

Go ahead switch , I seen more than a few do the same ..
They all expected a faster truck and results with the

Durango's , Losi ect ....


After a while they all come back to Ae because of the support they get and because the Ae is faster & more reliable ....

Try some toe out on the ft end instead , this will help the truck track straighter on the straight-away...

I ackerman like camber in that the inside is the opposite of the outside e.g Moving the inside steering link back = moving the outside one forward?

yes, 3 up front and 5 in the rear.

Doesn't moving the links back on the FT piece and Ackbar calm the "twitchyness" down?
Why does this guide say differently?
(JQ THEGuide)

ok, I have never ever used toe out lol. I have always read that it makes the truck unpredictable. I thought front toe in stabilized the front and rear toe in stabilized the rear, but at a cost of scrubbed speed.

hmm, I just reread the source I normally use to explain stuff to me.

from a website I use
"Both front wheels try to pull the car to the side. They won't be able to, because on the other side there's an equally big, opposing force, but the can try. These forces are indicated by the green arrows. So the wheels aren't pointing in the direction in which they are going (white arrow). This creates a slip angle, as explained in chapter 1.

So, in theory, the car isn't going anywhere. But, this in an instable situation: suppose the car hits a slight bump on one side, or it is steered just a little bit. This will induce more load on one of the two front tires. More load means more grip, so the tire can also pull to the side a little stronger. In the case of a small steering correction, the force on the other side will also get smaller, because the weight is transferred, not induced because of a bump. So you end up with one wheel pulling to one side very strongly, and the other wheel pulling the other side, but not nearly as hard. As a result, the two forces don't suspend each other any more; there is a resultant force to one side, which will steer the car. This is bad news, because this will in turn cause weight transfer, worsening the problem. The driver can try to correct this by countersteering, but if it's not done perfectly, you end up with the same effect in the other direction. This will make the car wave from side to side, or in t h e worst case, fishtail.
Toe-out causes instability, so there's no point in using it at the rear of your car, it will make it undrivable. But, in the front, there's the stabilizing effect of caster. That's why a little toe-out is sometimes used in front, as long as the car has sufficient caster, instability on the straights won't be a problem. The 'instable effect' will be noticeable though: while turning into corners. Turning in will feel more immediate and more aggressive"

I dont know if this helps...


"A large Ackermann angle gives you smooth, predictable steering. You'll be able to round the corners nicely without all four tires trying to force the car in a different direction. A smaller Ackermann angle on the other hand can give you more aggressive steering, especially entering the corners. However, it isn't guaranteed that the front won't wash out now and then. Neither is a smooth cornering radius. It can be useful an high-traction tracks, if your car tends to oversteer in the middle of the corners, and you'd like a little more turn-in. Not to mention the psychological impact on the person driving right in front of you when you're entering corners."

Evil,
I was going over the pictures and text. It looks like the ack angle is the difference between the outside and inside wheels angle. So if the left wheel turns in 20deg and the right wheel turns in 30 deg, then the ack angle is 10deg. The larger the angle makes for smoother corner according to the text. I am by no means an expert. Like you I am trying to get a handle on this stuff. The website I am referencing is http://users.telenet.be/elvo/

Join the no idea what I'm doing club lol
The only bad handling traits I noticed over the weekend was the twitchiness on the straights (Ackbar?) and my driving style causing the truck to understeer.(not the trucks fault but I am going to try and iron that out)

This is why you are unstable at high speed, adding shims in the rear lowers roll center and will make the rear slide on entry with more grip on exit, you need to go with 4mm in front and 0 or 1mm in the rear. your truck is doing EXACTLY what you have it set up to do.


WC, TOE OUT DOESNT MAKE THE TRUCK MORE STABLE YOU HAVE IT BACKWARDS. TOE OUT WILL GIVE THE TRUCK MORE INITIAL STEERING WHICH IS WHAT WE DONT NEED. TOE IN GIVES STRAIGHT LINE STABILITY.

those serrated wheel nuts stripped my rim.. brand new ones too.. never had an issue until i put the traxxas nuts on.. typical traxxas bullshit and ill try that ride height too

Maybe try turning down the D/R on ur steering? Not sure if that would help. Lmk

My dr is at 50%......... lol. I am about to steal my kids slow servo from her truck.


@MantisWorx I know its doing what its setup to do, lol. I need it setup to do something else. I am using the 8mm mod, zero shims in the back would be bad, no?