It's the same as running two 20 tooth pulleys, but there are fewer teeth in contact with the belt, so skipping is more likely. There's no real benefit.

It really depends on where you are running and what the surface is like. You have listed all the major things now you have to put together a combo that will give you the results that you want to address any issues that you are seeing in the handling of the truck.

The main upgrades are:

Swaybars, you need them (FT kit comes with them)

Spring kits, you need those too

8mm mod, used to lower rear roll center to get more traction on all surfaces...May result in more traction rolling on high traction surfaces but I have had good luck with it everywhere.

RC Shox products, they make the center ball diff, an adjustable steering bar, and dual stage pistons...That is up to you a lot of us are running the C diff and pistons with good results

FT upgrade kit, basically adds the the important upgrades from regular kit or RTR to make it almost a FT kit...Main improvements are the multi plate slipper, chassis brace (also comes with the updated rear belt cover and rear shock tower) and saddle pack mounts.

Exotek LCG chassis, aluminum center chassis to add weight and add it down low...Lots of people run it and it seems to be a good upgrade if you want/need the extra weight. You can try some stick on weight to see if you like it or replicate the feeling on a budget.

Exotek locked front hub, replaces the inner slipper pad and plate with a octagon that is keyed directly to the spur and belt pulley. Should help with the overpowered rear with the stock and or VTS slipper setup. At $8 I say that is something to have in your box to have as a tuning option at least.

I think those are all the main upgrades people have been using.

after looking at some of cav's recent SC races, trying to figure out what body this is, looks like PL raptor front but flotek rear..

If I said that was a very nice body do you think she would hold it against me?

Yeah, thats a nice body, if u know what i mean

I have a question: It feels like my car has very less brake-force at the end of the straight. I think when i brake so hard, all the weight is transefered to the front, which results in bad grip in the rear. I'm using the clicker, so i can't brake with the front. Is there a way to stop this weight-transfer to the front?

Lock the clicker? lol

Yes I believe the hubs are zero degree. On every setup sheet I have seen there is no mention of adjusting the rear toe with the hubs. Also in the manual in the tuning section there is no mention of adjusting rear toe with the hubs. I do believe STRC makes an optional hub with .5 degree more toe. I measured my rear toe on a setup board and it comes out at about 3 degrees. I noticed a picture a while back showing Brian Kinwald's SC10 4x4 with the 8mm mod and he was running his hubs in the stock position with the camber links angled a lot, so I guess it works that way as well if your worried about flipping the hubs.

I personally plan on flipping the hubs after seeing it. On the X-Factory cars, they flip the hubs to run everything as straight as possible and it works well there

Cav runs Proline.

I am pretty sure everyone locks the clicker. I am not even sure why they thought it was a good idea.

Like I said before. He's in Europe and most likely on a AstroTurf technical track.

If you truly want to slow the shift forward, try stiffer front spring and thicker oil. That will slow the weight transfer.

I'm on a technical indoor carpet track with many 180°-corners and i like the clicker. i'll try stiffer springs all around to don't destroy the balance.

For those running it, what's the measurment on your rear camber link? The manual says 54MM. Is everyone sticking with that? For some reason, I couldn't find that when I did my search....

Ok guys, YOU NEED TO READ THIS!

Was looking at the Exotek locked front clutch, I'm thinking cool, full time drive to the front, and adjust the slip to the rear, has to work good right?

So I thought I could build the locked front clutch, being in NZ it takes a long time to get parts, and I wanna try this, so took a new spur gear, took the inner clutch slipper, cut out a slipper pad from the cardboard from the spur pack, make it about three mm's bigger all round than the slipper pad, push the front clutch slipper into it so it's in real tight, now super clue these all together and place in a vice tight. Now you can have full time drive to the front, and it takes seconds to adjust rear slip, and does it work, hell yes it works great, full power, and you can set it up till it drives straight under full power, WOW!

Just took the Losi of my shopping list.