@tom e
Whenever I made adjustments to the link.. Raising it up on the inside gives me less traction and lets the rear end slide more. Lowering it gjives more traction. I usually raise it up when traction is high and I am traction rolling in sweepers or fast corners. Other than that, I am usually trying to get it as low as possible before the truck starts rolling.

+1, good info. raising the inner link position the first go around on carpet really saved me when traction rolling was an issue.

Great Advice Ryan, thanks. I should therefore start with my current set-up and raise only if I am traction rolling. Sounds like a great plan.

What do you guys recommend for sway bars? I am currently using the 2.2 front and 2.0 rear. I also have 20K front diff and 5K rear diff using the slipper decoupled.

that is from what I recall the sway bar settings I used on indoor carpet. outdoors loose conditions here I was down to 1.8mm front and 1.5mm rear. Again, all track dependent though, if they feel good to you, nothing wrong with going with them.

I done the same thing last week on a medium traction track and picked up 6/10ths a lap. Exotec rear hubs with 4mm spacer outside with nothing on the inside.

A few pages back I reported that I had shredded my spur. And my first thought was that the mesh was off. But after taking a closer look the mystery of the stripped spur has been solved. The three screws that hold the tranny to the motor plate were loose, let the tranny flex (and the spur is connected to the tranny) allowing the mesh to get loose. A while back I rebuilt the tranny using the new diff cases, and there was some slight binding. So I now remember I used thread lock but I didn't crank down the screws because of the bind. Oh well, I hope everyone is checking those tranny screws.


These three screws were loose.


Which caused this.

I just checked mine last night and 2 of them where loose on the back, but the front was good.

I have a Spektrum 6040 in 2 of my vehicles. Fantastic servo. No glitching or brown out issues. I run Spektrum radio gear and ran this servo along with a Mamba Max Pro esc, again, no issues.

i had my son tell me that my sc makes a sound when i brake hard or soft. i had tried to find something.about this no luck. he said it like a chirripng sound or skinndiding sound so i put in my hearing aid and i herd it everytime i stoped. is this normal or do i have something wrong in the build thanks Rob

Help! I have this installed with stock spur (FT) and 14 pinion. orion 8 esc. and the truck is slow, what am i doing wrong?

Top end, bottom end ? what's new motor, esc etc

Under braking, could be the front clicker(most guys lock it down), or the belt skipping(which is pretty common with this trucks belt drive).

Conditions for the track I was on Sun. were, very large track with alot of wind and dry, there are several fast sections that I did not have enough speed for, (going to go up to a 15T pinion 62T spur Iwas running a 14T pinion w/62T spur, Ballistic 4.5) track was a little loose almost loomy in places. 1st place winner and myself 2nd were both running HB Megagrids that were working great. I have my rear links with the 8mm mod using inside hole @ the hub and inside hole @the tower w/ 7mm spacers. The truck was slow reacting using the outer hole @ the hub. No LHS had the shorter turnbuckles for me to use the outer hole @ the tower, had to cut the ends off the rears to use the inner hole @the hub. By putting a little more preload on the front shocks and no weight by the servo the truck quit digging in so much in the front and keeps it from traction rolling.

No top end, a 2 wheel buggy went past me. tekin 550 5.5 sc4x. orion vortex R8 pro. M12 epa set at 150.

i have the slipper locked. so how do i make the belt tighter. this is a stick truck and i do not have the brace yet.