The truck running great on the conditions you mentioned are not the conditions that people have been having issues on WC ...

Great result though, truck does have the chops especially indoors.

A locked up Cdif would be just like a slipper......
How many ball difs have you seen lock up?

WRONG AGAIN, I know you are trying to be helpful but giving information on something that you have no knowledge of helps no one and only causes frustration and confusion.


Shark, proper way to set the center dif is to tighten all the way down so that the spring is fully collapsed and then back off 1/4 turn. If for some reason you get some kind of slip then simply replace the spring, they get hot and weak over time. The only possible way the Cdif could lock up is if when assembling it one of the dif washers slid down and you didnt notice it. If it worked from the beginning its not going to "lock up" out of the blue. IMO your mesh was either too tight or the center hole on the spur is wore out ( unlikely but possible)

Shark, is it possible that your motor mount itself may have been flexing? Different vehicle type, but I remember that caused us some spur gear headaches with my Academy 2wd cars till PSI Racing made a thicker motor mount plate.

could be way off here though, just thought maybe it something to look at as well for replacement in case.

Pleasure to help you....

Marcus, thanks for the feedback. Yeah I don't think it is an issue with the cDiff (great product by the way). I have been using it for several months (maybe half a year) and no issues. I still think it was a combination of a slightly loose mesh, maybe some flex, too much brake and too much traction (slicks and sticky clay). I just took a quick look at the track, I will tear it down this week and take a closer look (especially the mesh).

Cain, I got my first SC10 4x4 back in May 2011 and a second one (FT) in June 2012. I never had an issue with the spur. It has to be a mesh issue, where I just had too much play.

simple question, shock setup:
bladder or emulsion?

when to choose which setup and why?

any thoughts out there?

sounds good! When you do your tear down if you can post pics of your findings that would be great, may help someone else with a similar issue.

Bladder's add pack which helps on the landings off the jumps .

Emulsion adds traction compared to the bladders improving grip .

Anybody try raising the front camber links like max's setup sheet?

I did that on my carpet setup from the 3mm I was running outdoors to take away a bit of the front bite.

Well you said to report back after my outdoor run with my truck now that it has been re-done. I was very surprised, it did very well. WC you will like this, out of 18 trucks I was the only AE there and managed to TQ for the main. I ended up 2nd in the main, MIP Losi got me. I didn't have enough speed in the straights. I have a Novak 4.5 550 in it now w/14T, It was coming off @135 if I could go up to a 15T I think I would have enough. Very big track. I shortened the rear camber links and left the yellow springs on, handled and jumped great.

Picked up a used SC10 4x4. Been reading the forums on some grinding and belt slap sounds others have experienced because I am too. Took both the front and rear diff down. Appears fine. Cleaned it all up and reassembled it all. So it got me thinking if maybe the spur and pinion were off since it is a bastard calf having the Velineon ESC / Motor combo.

It has a Traxxas Velineon 3500kv 10 turn brushless motor (540 size I think) and Velineon ESC.

What would be the proper spur and pinion? It came with a 48P/93T spur and 16T pinion (1/8" or 3mm shaft).

FROM THE MANUAL:
To calculate the SC10 4x4 Final Drive Ration (a.k.a. gear ratio), use the following formula: (spur gear # teeth) / (pinion gear # teeth) x 2.57 = Final Drive Ratio

It has a 48 pitch 93t / 16t X 2.57 = 14.94 is that a good ratio for just bashing around the yard? Would this combo causing loud belt skips?

The alternative I was thinking was a 32 pitch 62t / 13t x 2.57 = 12.26

I just want reliable cool running.

congrats!

If you don't want to go up on the pinion size, you can try boosting the motor.

What setup did you settle on?

Still running the 8mm mod in the rear just moved to the inside hole on the hub adapter, 1.2 pistons, emulsion, 32.5 front 27.5 rear, no weight by the servo, just next to the saddle packs and by the gear cover, yellow front and rear.