5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
06-13-2012 | 05:42 PM
Anyone racing with a Ten Shock? I saw some pretty good reviews on it from ultimate RC. I am just doing local club racing, as long as it don't not cog horribly bad or start on fire I should be good.
06-13-2012 | 05:53 PM
I've been racing the SC411 4600kv for a few months. Very smooth and more power than you can use. Flawless so far and I have done my best to abuse the snot out of it.
06-13-2012 | 05:59 PM
Which esc are you using? What C rating are you using for the pack? I read that motor has a decent amp draw. What about the 401? Its sensorless yeah, but does it cog bad? I have fried a few sensors in my 4x4 /sadface
06-13-2012 | 07:46 PM
Tech Adept
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 168
Swaybars connect left and right arms together to reduce roll, if you release both tires they should both fall.
If you hold one tire, the other side will not fall. They will not fall independently of each other with sway bars connected... they will fall together without springs shocks or anything. They should move very freely, together.
The reason that they would not fall could be that there is binding in the inner hinge pin, outer pin or the nuts retaining the top of the shocks are too tight.
You may have tightened the nut too tight on the outer hinge pin.
Loosen up the nut on the shock, still tight and not dropping down? Loosen the nut on the outer pin through the hubs (both), still tight? Its gotta be the inner pin binding, time for new arms.
You can disconnect the swaybar to see if it is the left or right side that is binding.
If you hold one tire, the other side will not fall. They will not fall independently of each other with sway bars connected... they will fall together without springs shocks or anything. They should move very freely, together.
The reason that they would not fall could be that there is binding in the inner hinge pin, outer pin or the nuts retaining the top of the shocks are too tight.
You may have tightened the nut too tight on the outer hinge pin.
Loosen up the nut on the shock, still tight and not dropping down? Loosen the nut on the outer pin through the hubs (both), still tight? Its gotta be the inner pin binding, time for new arms.
You can disconnect the swaybar to see if it is the left or right side that is binding.
It could also be that you are using the wrong clips that hold the sway bar in position. There are 2 different clips with a total of 4 different sizes of holes that hold the sway bars. If you are using a set that is smaller than your bar, the bar will bind and the hubs/arms will not have free movement.
I have the Correct swaybar piece in there(#2 for Blue-2.0 bars)
i guess I could go bigger?
FQ,
i am saying without tires, no shocks....
When i raise the a-arm with my finger, should it fall back down??
My Rear A-arms look fine, I inspected & i changed hinge pins(NEW)
But, the Rear a-arms don't fall back down, everything seems to be fine,
so I guess it has to be the A-arm is bent & i can't see it?
I know not the most important thing, but i like it to be right!
THX
06-13-2012 | 08:19 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,207
THX guys,
I have the Correct swaybar piece in there(#2 for Blue-2.0 bars)
i guess I could go bigger?
FQ,
i am saying without tires, no shocks....
When i raise the a-arm with my finger, should it fall back down??
My Rear A-arms look fine, I inspected & i changed hinge pins(NEW)
But, the Rear a-arms don't fall back down, everything seems to be fine,
so I guess it has to be the A-arm is bent & i can't see it?
I know not the most important thing, but i like it to be right!
THX
I have the Correct swaybar piece in there(#2 for Blue-2.0 bars)
i guess I could go bigger?
FQ,
i am saying without tires, no shocks....
When i raise the a-arm with my finger, should it fall back down??
My Rear A-arms look fine, I inspected & i changed hinge pins(NEW)
But, the Rear a-arms don't fall back down, everything seems to be fine,
so I guess it has to be the A-arm is bent & i can't see it?
I know not the most important thing, but i like it to be right!
THX
06-13-2012 | 08:24 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,175
From: Owensboro KY
06-13-2012 | 08:31 PM
i am waiting for my brand new sc10 4x4 factory team kit truck to come in the mail. also i bought the strc aluminum steering bell crank, rpm a arms all around, hard anodized aluminum belt tensioner pullies. i figured i mine as well buy those parts and install them on my truck right away.
06-13-2012 | 08:55 PM
after looking through the manual and using the search function in this thread...
what shims under the sun gears? i cannot find an AE number that isnt a full rebuild.
tore my truck apart to start the diff bearing mod and noticed a shim wasnt completely flat, still run-able, but since i got the whole truck apart wanted to just put in new ones... tried the same shim from the outside on the out-drive, and with 2x on 1 side and 1x on the other the diff seemed really smooth and tight but no binding... would using the 10x5x.02 be an alternative to the 13x5x.02 shims?
what shims under the sun gears? i cannot find an AE number that isnt a full rebuild.
tore my truck apart to start the diff bearing mod and noticed a shim wasnt completely flat, still run-able, but since i got the whole truck apart wanted to just put in new ones... tried the same shim from the outside on the out-drive, and with 2x on 1 side and 1x on the other the diff seemed really smooth and tight but no binding... would using the 10x5x.02 be an alternative to the 13x5x.02 shims?
06-13-2012 | 09:16 PM
THX guys,
I have the Correct swaybar piece in there(#2 for Blue-2.0 bars)
i guess I could go bigger?
FQ,
i am saying without tires, no shocks....
When i raise the a-arm with my finger, should it fall back down??
My Rear A-arms look fine, I inspected & i changed hinge pins(NEW)
But, the Rear a-arms don't fall back down, everything seems to be fine,
so I guess it has to be the A-arm is bent & i can't see it?
I know not the most important thing, but i like it to be right!
THX
I have the Correct swaybar piece in there(#2 for Blue-2.0 bars)
i guess I could go bigger?
FQ,
i am saying without tires, no shocks....
When i raise the a-arm with my finger, should it fall back down??
My Rear A-arms look fine, I inspected & i changed hinge pins(NEW)
But, the Rear a-arms don't fall back down, everything seems to be fine,
so I guess it has to be the A-arm is bent & i can't see it?
I know not the most important thing, but i like it to be right!
THX
The a arm can look ok, but the plastic that the hinge pin passes through can get tweaked and create binding.
Before you get new arms though, loosen all points of tightness. Loosen the nuts on the outside hinge pins (at the hub), loosen the shock nuts on the tower, loosen the clip that holds the sway bar in place (even with it assembled correctly, if too tight can bind up. There is a small side and a big side to that part).
Hope I'm not forgetting anything.
Now does it drop freely? If so, the a arm is ok. If not, new a arms.
Now start tightening everything up checking for free movement as you tighten and you should get everything tight enough without any binding.
Last edited by fq06; 06-13-2012 at 10:47 PM.
06-13-2012 | 09:38 PM
Tech Adept
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 168
It should absolutely fall back down on it's own if it doesn't, you are leaving a lot of performance on the table.
The a arm can look ok, but the plastic that the hinge pin passes through can get tweaked and create binding.
Before you get new arms though, loosen all points or tightness. Loosen the nuts on the outside hinge pins (at the hub), loosen the shock nuts on the tower, loosen the clip that holds the sway bar in place (even with it assembled correctly, if too tight can bind up. There is a small side and a big side to that part).
Hope I'm not forgetting anything.
Now does it drop freely? If so, the a arm is ok. If not, new a arms.
Now start tightening everything up checking for free movement as you tighten and you should get everything tight enough without any binding.
The a arm can look ok, but the plastic that the hinge pin passes through can get tweaked and create binding.
Before you get new arms though, loosen all points or tightness. Loosen the nuts on the outside hinge pins (at the hub), loosen the shock nuts on the tower, loosen the clip that holds the sway bar in place (even with it assembled correctly, if too tight can bind up. There is a small side and a big side to that part).
Hope I'm not forgetting anything.
Now does it drop freely? If so, the a arm is ok. If not, new a arms.
Now start tightening everything up checking for free movement as you tighten and you should get everything tight enough without any binding.
I already have new A-Arms.....
I think Its the plastic, where the Hinge pin goes is tweeked or bent.
Everything else seems to be fine.....
I will 2x check b4 changing A-arms tho, but I think that's it.
Just wanted to make sure.
THX
06-13-2012 | 09:59 PM
That motor is ok but.. you will really like the power, smoothness and torque of a 4pole. You can get by with that motor with a little bit of timing. With a 4pole you dont need any timing, it is a smooth beast of a motor, night and day power curve (smooth all the way up). The 4pole just feels much more efficient.
06-13-2012 | 10:01 PM
Tech Regular
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 307
Daryl80-There is no need to instal those RPM arms on ur new truck...I've yet to see someone break a stock arm. The truck should handle better with the stock arms as they are stiffer. Be careful with that Strc alum steering rack. I tried a alum sc10 bulkhead a couple years back and it developed slop very quickly due to the softness of the alum used.
I'd suggest you build the truck and race it stock before you change things on it. Team Associated spent alot of time and effort developing the new parts and setup.
Jg
I'd suggest you build the truck and race it stock before you change things on it. Team Associated spent alot of time and effort developing the new parts and setup.
Jg
06-13-2012 | 10:04 PM
There was some discussion a few pages back about the std kit arms vs RPM version, general consensis was RPM much less flex therefore performance upgrade.
Has anyone done the FT kit arms vs RPM yet?
I sold my std kit weeks prior to buying the FT so didn't get a chance to directly compare, but i swear the plastics are upgraded to harder / stronger throughout the FT truck. Either that or i forgot what clean plastic looks like
Has anyone done the FT kit arms vs RPM yet?
I sold my std kit weeks prior to buying the FT so didn't get a chance to directly compare, but i swear the plastics are upgraded to harder / stronger throughout the FT truck. Either that or i forgot what clean plastic looks like