5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
05-27-2012 | 11:53 AM
Tech Legend
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 22,595
From: TRCR Modified Driver
05-27-2012 | 11:58 AM
Got my FT truck to the track for the first time to give it it's shakedown run. I'm really pleased. but had some things poke their head out.
While at the track I shimmed the rear diff since I had clicking under heavy acceleration. I added one of the shims under each of the big gears. That seemed to work pretty well, but it seems I now have clicking from the front diff? I've got the clicker set so it's "locked" If I tighten it all the way, it doesn't allow the front wheels to spin at all.
After doing the rear diff, getting it all back together, I noticed my belt tunnel seems crooked?
Any suggestions?
While at the track I shimmed the rear diff since I had clicking under heavy acceleration. I added one of the shims under each of the big gears. That seemed to work pretty well, but it seems I now have clicking from the front diff? I've got the clicker set so it's "locked" If I tighten it all the way, it doesn't allow the front wheels to spin at all.
After doing the rear diff, getting it all back together, I noticed my belt tunnel seems crooked?
Any suggestions?
05-27-2012 | 12:45 PM
Got my FT truck to the track for the first time to give it it's shakedown run. I'm really pleased. but had some things poke their head out.
While at the track I shimmed the rear diff since I had clicking under heavy acceleration. I added one of the shims under each of the big gears. That seemed to work pretty well, but it seems I now have clicking from the front diff? I've got the clicker set so it's "locked" If I tighten it all the way, it doesn't allow the front wheels to spin at all.
After doing the rear diff, getting it all back together, I noticed my belt tunnel seems crooked?
Any suggestions?
While at the track I shimmed the rear diff since I had clicking under heavy acceleration. I added one of the shims under each of the big gears. That seemed to work pretty well, but it seems I now have clicking from the front diff? I've got the clicker set so it's "locked" If I tighten it all the way, it doesn't allow the front wheels to spin at all.
After doing the rear diff, getting it all back together, I noticed my belt tunnel seems crooked?
Any suggestions?
05-27-2012 | 12:59 PM
05-27-2012 | 02:26 PM
Will do, and if I like it better then the rx8 I'll prob. keep it on the sc10....... I'm also going to do a comparison between the original sc10 with a center stick pack mod vs the FT sc10 w/ saddle packs. As well as my opinion on the FT clutch setup w/ garodisc's and exoteks inside slipper hub vs. the center diff.
05-27-2012 | 02:32 PM
So my thoughts after my first race with this truck.
outdoor track with sandy loose dirt very rough.
I had to listen to multiple guys come up to me and tell me how i should of bought a losi bla bla bla bla. I out qualified most of them.
The truck complimented a smooth driving style and maid you pay if you were to aggressive. I have allot of testing to do but i enjoyed the hell out of it. Overall i ended up in the a starting 4th in the A main all other trucks were losi. After a good start i had a on off switch issue and had to pull the truck off for glitching.
So far-
Dislikes - chassis acts as a collection zone for dirt.
Likes- Smooth truck, Jumps well, Was able to take tight lines due to steering,
I can't wait to get some more time on this truck and put the AE in the winner circle in my area.
thanks for all your tips
outdoor track with sandy loose dirt very rough.
I had to listen to multiple guys come up to me and tell me how i should of bought a losi bla bla bla bla. I out qualified most of them.
The truck complimented a smooth driving style and maid you pay if you were to aggressive. I have allot of testing to do but i enjoyed the hell out of it. Overall i ended up in the a starting 4th in the A main all other trucks were losi. After a good start i had a on off switch issue and had to pull the truck off for glitching.
So far-
Dislikes - chassis acts as a collection zone for dirt.
Likes- Smooth truck, Jumps well, Was able to take tight lines due to steering,
I can't wait to get some more time on this truck and put the AE in the winner circle in my area.
thanks for all your tips
05-27-2012 | 03:44 PM
Just ran my truck for the first time yesterday. Not too bad, I have some tweaking to do to it but it's not to far from where I want to be.
I modified the outdrives front and back (mentioned some pages back) to allow for greater up travel without damaging the diffs and it worked out great. I only need one 2mm rubber spacer on my shock shafts in the rear right now and two 2mm spacers in the front. Here's a link to another thread showing what I'm talking about.
Another mod I did was to tame the steering down on this truck. Most cars use a lot more servo travel than SC10, most around 120 -140 on the radio's endpoints as opposed to 60-90 on the SC10. This means the servo is losing some mechanical resolution and makes the steering lock to lock very fast, too fast for me. To get more resolution I used a shorter arm. Here's a drawing showing what I mean.
My endpoints are now around 140 and my steering is definitely not as twitchy as some of the other SC10s I have driven with similar setups and electronics.
Here's some pics of my truck as it sits right now. It's currently underweight, 5.3 lbs or 84.8 oz. I'm not really liking the Sidewinder and 4600, I think it's too much for the ESC to handle, it lacks bottom end. It's all I had to throw in so I figured I give it a try. Because I have some room to play with weight, I'm going to instead put in my Castle 3800 SCT and a MMM. Should never have any problems with that.
And here's my current setup sheet, it's pretty accurate.
Feedback welcome!
I modified the outdrives front and back (mentioned some pages back) to allow for greater up travel without damaging the diffs and it worked out great. I only need one 2mm rubber spacer on my shock shafts in the rear right now and two 2mm spacers in the front. Here's a link to another thread showing what I'm talking about.
Another mod I did was to tame the steering down on this truck. Most cars use a lot more servo travel than SC10, most around 120 -140 on the radio's endpoints as opposed to 60-90 on the SC10. This means the servo is losing some mechanical resolution and makes the steering lock to lock very fast, too fast for me. To get more resolution I used a shorter arm. Here's a drawing showing what I mean.
My endpoints are now around 140 and my steering is definitely not as twitchy as some of the other SC10s I have driven with similar setups and electronics.
Here's some pics of my truck as it sits right now. It's currently underweight, 5.3 lbs or 84.8 oz. I'm not really liking the Sidewinder and 4600, I think it's too much for the ESC to handle, it lacks bottom end. It's all I had to throw in so I figured I give it a try. Because I have some room to play with weight, I'm going to instead put in my Castle 3800 SCT and a MMM. Should never have any problems with that.
And here's my current setup sheet, it's pretty accurate.
Feedback welcome!
Also do you know you F/R weight distribution?
05-27-2012 | 04:52 PM
Tech Adept
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 115
Thanks also for the note to make sure the new flatwashers get centered. Their inside diameter is a little sloppy on the screw.
The outside edge of the plastic discs had some bulges, that were fairly easy to clean up.
The valve holes had some drill shavings still hanging on, and I got those cleaned up with a steel brush, and some of the "tuning drill bits" I got from RCshox.
I got a chance to go to the track for about an hour.
Currently, it is hot and dry, and not watered like on a raceday. It is hard packed dry clay with a slippery layer of dust.
The RCshox 2-stage pistons do seem to perform better than the V1 stockers.
I need to do the B4.1 rear hub carrier mod thingy to slow down the rear end dancing.... I think I have all the parts I need for that mod.
I'll take a shot at that in the morning.
Thanks again for all your help!