SC10 4x4 Thread
I put a couple of hours of serious wrench time today, and I may no longer hate my SC10 4x4. It was pretty good the last time I had it out, but I didn't have the complete setup on it. (4mm Hot Racing hub risers, 3mm spacer). Now that I got the full jimmy, I gotta ask.
WTF! How does anyone run them this tall and not bend them into ribbons! That's an unreal amount of bending load! I think I'm going to fab up some spacers that will fill the void and allow me to screw into the other hole in the shock tower and take some of the dead load off of them. That is, unless anyone else has a better idea.
WTF! How does anyone run them this tall and not bend them into ribbons! That's an unreal amount of bending load! I think I'm going to fab up some spacers that will fill the void and allow me to screw into the other hole in the shock tower and take some of the dead load off of them. That is, unless anyone else has a better idea.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#metric-fema...ndoffs/=hknycr
Tech Rookie
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 9
Has anyone experienced the clicking and discovered it coming from the front end instead of the back? The reason I ask is that my rear has been shimmed already and also has the limiters in when I look at the outdrives they are not wobbly and there are no wear marks on the dog bones, however, I never shimmed the front and the dog bones do have marks from hitting the outdrives, also they are wobbling, it clicks under hard acceleration. Ay help would be great . After I shimmed the back the click went away so I think it's my front making the noise now. Any advice would be helpful! Thanks in advance
I've been thinking the same think Craig. How about something like this.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#metric-fema...ndoffs/=hknycr
http://www.mcmaster.com/#metric-fema...ndoffs/=hknycr
Alternately, you could take the insert that fits below the shock tower, drill them out, and do the same thing. Don't know if they are quite tall enough.
Tech Adept
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 115
I'm going to take a piece of quarter inch aluminum and drill two holes in it (one for the ball stud, one for the unused ball stud location) The second screw and the added support should spread the bending motion over two fasteners and a bunch more surface area.
Alternately, you could take the insert that fits below the shock tower, drill them out, and do the same thing. Don't know if they are quite tall enough.
Alternately, you could take the insert that fits below the shock tower, drill them out, and do the same thing. Don't know if they are quite tall enough.
Please post pictures! ?
Tech Rookie
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 9
Tech Rookie
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 9
What sway bars and shock setups are the guys using with the exo tech chassis? I'm running the new FT kit and just changed over to the exo tech. I'm running stock setup with blue front springs on the rear and running 4 mm spacers on the rear inner camber link ball studs. Truck feels good but not quite there yet.. Any help would be appreciated!
I love how you still post up on this thread and you wont even run your sct cause you say you cant get it to work.. Get it on the track so i can put you in the wall like you did Jim
I'm going to take a piece of quarter inch aluminum and drill two holes in it (one for the ball stud, one for the unused ball stud location) The second screw and the added support should spread the bending motion over two fasteners and a bunch more surface area.
Alternately, you could take the insert that fits below the shock tower, drill them out, and do the same thing. Don't know if they are quite tall enough.
Alternately, you could take the insert that fits below the shock tower, drill them out, and do the same thing. Don't know if they are quite tall enough.
Tech Rookie
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 11
I had been thinking about doing this for months, but my truck was in stasis for the winter.
I just did the pin mod and it was better than the slipper but introduced some new problems so I put a slipper on the front.
It really helped the truck corner, and I suspect it could help save idler gears. the truck feels really fast and much more controllable than the stock slipper with garodiscs. I'll try it out at this weekends race.
I already have my center diff in the mail now, so I suspect this will all be for not.
I just did the pin mod and it was better than the slipper but introduced some new problems so I put a slipper on the front.
It really helped the truck corner, and I suspect it could help save idler gears. the truck feels really fast and much more controllable than the stock slipper with garodiscs. I'll try it out at this weekends race.
I already have my center diff in the mail now, so I suspect this will all be for not.



5Likes
My plan this weekend is to run on the clock then add 5oz on it and see if my times improve. When my shorty battery arrives I will be at the 88oz limit.