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Old 05-03-2012 | 06:04 AM
  #22576  
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Front hub? Front diff? Front belt? Which?
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Old 05-03-2012 | 06:05 AM
  #22577  
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Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta
My arms are grooved in the highlighted portions below. I need to tear it all apart anyway, as it's clicking under power, and the drivetrain is binding.

That's what I get for buying used. Maybe it's time to just pick up a new one.
As said above...
Rebuild diff and replace the damaged sun gear washers with one of these under each sun gear and do not use the stock sun gear washers
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...r-5x15x03mm-10
Clip a 2mm and a 1mm clip... grey shock travel limiting clip under the rubber bumper on each shock shaft to prevent the shock traveling up far enough that the a arm and cvd do not come into contact with the outdrive.
You can see them here
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Old 05-03-2012 | 06:05 AM
  #22578  
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Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta
Which bearings are the first to fail on these things?

edit: Just going to order a set now to be safe.
been racing this truck from day one, on outdoor clay/dirt tracks. with the original bearings. not a single failure.
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Old 05-03-2012 | 06:13 AM
  #22579  
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Thank you guys.
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Old 05-03-2012 | 06:31 AM
  #22580  
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Originally Posted by IRM616
so i busted two thrust washers. and i just got the upgraded version from rc shox and ran it for a few lipos. i had to race with it not working correctly? any ideas why?
Post your problem here, Marcus may know what's wrong
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...-services.html
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Old 05-03-2012 | 06:36 AM
  #22581  
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Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta
60C on one and 40C on the other. Same results with both. It's definitely not the batteries.

I'll go through the truck this weekend. I am running a different ESC though (Speed Passion 2.0 Pro). Current limiter is all the way down (DRRS = 1).

My clicker isn't freewheeling as long as it used to, so something is wrong.
Outside of the parts issues you are having with the car, what are you running exactly as far as software on the SP2.0 GT Pro and are you running any timing? Post your exact settings on the esc, and gearing too, maybe in the Speed Passion offroad thread as well.

I run this same ESC, using 30C 6000mah Hyperion saddle lipos. On the track size you have there, I ran on a similar (50 x 50) indoor carpet track and found that using the 550 5.5 motor SCX Tekin motor (I think that is like 3800 or 4000kv), I was geared down all the way to a 12T to get temps in check. So if you are running a 4600Kv motor, you may need significantly lower gearing than what I found, or, maybe a different motor.

You could also depending on the software you are using go to the calmer 205Mod software. I am running the 323 but I turned it basically into a non-timing ESC by shutting everything off.

How you drive also can matter. If you find you are jamming brakes a lot and then grabbing full throttle versus being smooth around the track, that can heat up a motor too.
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Old 05-03-2012 | 06:38 AM
  #22582  
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Originally Posted by fq06
As said above...
Rebuild diff and replace the damaged sun gear washers with one of these under each sun gear and do not use the stock sun gear washers
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...r-5x15x03mm-10
here is the ofna version:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...rential-Washer

Part #OFN38634

posted orginally here, but do a different supplier:

Originally Posted by Krio
My lhs had them, but these should be them:
http://www.nitrohouse.com/m11/OFNA/p...f6cc65815b3068
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Old 05-03-2012 | 06:44 AM
  #22583  
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Originally Posted by Cain
here is the ofna version:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...rential-Washer

Part #OFN38634

posted orginally here, but do a different supplier:
What thickness are those? The reason I suggest the xrays is because its 3mm thick and stock is 2mm thick so you are tightening up the gear mesh like adding one extra washer on one side... but this is more balanced.
Another members find that he pointed out to me.
Edit: saw second link... 3mm, perfect. Note though that the xray is 15mm outer circumference so there's a little more surface area to the washer.
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Old 05-03-2012 | 07:06 AM
  #22584  
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Both the X-Ray & Offna washers are out of stock on A-Main. With the part numbers you provided, I can check Stormer, eBay, etc. Thanks!
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Old 05-03-2012 | 07:15 AM
  #22585  
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Originally Posted by jpure009
Got the AE Saddle pack cradle& strap..
Says in the directions, if I have the old chasis
I need to drill holes with a 90degree countersink???
I don't quite know what that means??

I am putting in an order w/ AMAIN,
-Should I get new part#91083 w/holes.
will Amain have new chasis instead of old style.?.
What do i look for, 2 Holes in bottom??
-Exotek chasis??, does that need drilling??

Any suggestions??
Putting all the FT upgrades I have on, after next week.
Total rebuild.
THX
If you don't want to drill a chassis, here's a guaranteed FT chassis with the holes already:
http://kriostasis.com/store/index.ph...products_id=51
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Old 05-03-2012 | 07:26 AM
  #22586  
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Anyone know if the FT saddle pack mounts fit the exotech chassis? Exotech website says v2 is compatible with the Factory Team kit, but is unclear if that means the saddle pack cradle will drop right in as well?
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Old 05-03-2012 | 07:33 AM
  #22587  
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Originally Posted by n8b
It's prob your rear diff. You will probably need to atleast replace the shims, maybe replace the case. Lot of talk of limiting shock travel the last day or so....

Read up, use the search tool.
Thank you guys. I just seen were you could search just this thread...
Also I did not know what to search before so thnaks for putting me on the right track.
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Old 05-03-2012 | 07:37 AM
  #22588  
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Anyone running the RTR Reedy ESC without the fan? I just finished the ft upgrade kit install and the esc is too tall with the fan to fit under the belt. If I take the fan off it fits great.

Anyone running without a fan? If so what are your temps like?
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Old 05-03-2012 | 09:01 AM
  #22589  
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Well been running the same front and rear arms that came with truck back in Aug 2011. Wondering why my front cva's kept bending recently. I've bent 3 sets in the last month. I tried all the tricks of adding limiters, shock boots, not running front sways as someone suggested the cva's were hitting them. (fyi truck sucked without front sways). I guess bent front arms could have contributed. There rears were only half as bad. Upgraded to RPMs...we'll see.
Attached Thumbnails SC10 4x4 Thread-20120502_223146.jpg   SC10 4x4 Thread-20120503_084301.jpg   SC10 4x4 Thread-20120503_084402.jpg  
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Old 05-03-2012 | 09:01 AM
  #22590  
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I'll finally get to run my V2 Center Ball Diff this weekend. I will be running both indoor and outdoors as my place has each type of track. Leisure Hours Raceway in Joliet, love it. My question for those that have this already, what's the recommended amount of pins for each type of track? Indoor is good sized, outdoor is 1/8 scale size:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qxe7ZoCYucU

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qC_FO1B-0Rk

I thought I read somewhere that 4 for indoor and 6-8 for outdoor was the key, but was looking for some guidance.

Also would like to know what pinion you'd suggest. Marcus sent me a 60 tooth spur. I run a Novak Ballistic 4.5t 550 motor with an RX8. I've got a 14 and 15t pinion. I was thinking the 15. I use the 14 with my current 62t V1 spur, and my motor comes off nice and cool, not even warm to the touch, after a 10 minute practice session.
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