I was reading the instructions on the RC Shox V2 diff..and I had a few questions..one: if you tighten the spring all the way doesn't this lock the "slipper" so their would be zero diff action? 2: what are the pins for..and Marcus shouldn't you include some diff lube or at least mention that you need some on your site..

You want to tighten it all the waydown. That will not lock it up, the balls will do the work.
If you dont crank it down, the diff will slip and you got it so that you are not slipping and losing power. You want the diff to put 100% of the power to the wheels, the diff will send the power to the front or rear as it's designed.

You use clear AE diff lube like any other ball diff and black grease in the thrust bearing same as the manualinstructs for the thrust bearing.

I found rcshox stuff to be for someone that can figure stuff out (not saying you can't).
The parts are grassroots stuff that a guy puts out and there's not a glossy manual that goes with it... you just gotta look at the parts, scratch your noggin and dig into it.
But they are parts that the big names with glossy manuals are not putting out.

I got my rcshox parts assembled with marcus' quick replies and others on the rcshox thread. But happy to have them.

Forgot, the pins tighten up or loosen up the diff.
More pins, tighter.
Like a thinner oil in a center gear diff with less pins or thicker oil with more pins.
Less pins allows it to "diff out" more.

Question. I ran my SC10 4x4 yesterday. Seems to have good traction and nothing obvious causing it, but there is a clicking noise. What should I check first? It is definitely a grear, as it accelerates the clicking speed increases. I have the clicker tightened down full.

What do I tear apart first?

There are instructions on the website under the "instructions" tab and there is a link on the item description as well as pages and pages of information on the RCshox products and services thread and this thread!! its all covered. This is the information link from the website:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...l#post10441666

there is no slipper anymore it is a differential, locking the spring down puts pressure on the balls and gives it the "dif" action.

The clicking is your rear diff. Take it apart & the shims under the sun gears might be concaved. Whether they are or they aren't, add a .2mm or a .3mm shim along with the stock ones to each side to tighten the mesh up a little. And then make sure your bones aren't contacting the diff cups/drives under full compression. Limit shock up travel as necessary.

0.3mm shims under the sun gear INSTEAD of the stock 0.2mm. 0.4mm stock isn't enough. 0.8mm (double stock) is too much. 0.6mm total (0.3mm under each) is pretty much perfect.

use Xray 15x5x0.3mm washers.

Hmm.. kinda odd, since they expect you to use existing screws for other stuff. Is there anything special about it or can I keep using the black one from the inner body mount?
On a sidenote, I have to wonder about AE again.. even the FT upgrade kit doesn't contain all "needed" parts. The 6mm ball studs for the ackerman bar are not included. I really don't get their policy behind these things.. selling a slipper upgrade kit without the belt cover (which you can't even get easily and only in a set of full belt covers), brace kit without the shock tower (again, can't be sure you get the right one if you order online due to identical part #s), etc... why not include these things for a few bucks more and save people frustration?

I put a couple of hours of serious wrench time today, and I may no longer hate my SC10 4x4. It was pretty good the last time I had it out, but I didn't have the complete setup on it. (4mm Hot Racing hub risers, 3mm spacer). Now that I got the full jimmy, I gotta ask.

WTF! How does anyone run them this tall and not bend them into ribbons! That's an unreal amount of bending load! I think I'm going to fab up some spacers that will fill the void and allow me to screw into the other hole in the shock tower and take some of the dead load off of them. That is, unless anyone else has a better idea.

What is the difference between these above and...

The Triple Garodiscs for a clutch basket(sc104x)???

I have the FT VTS upgrade from AE, but i thought til today
i needed the Triple Garodiscs??

ready for order, just want to double check.
THX

I am one of them that tested them out for Mantis, I can def. say they are worth the upgrade. On the FT pads they got glazed/dirty etc after about 3 or so packs, the garodisc's were in way better condition even after I put about 15 packs on them.....From pack one to the last pack I put on them I never had to tighten down the nut and still got the same amount of power.........

THX for trying to help,
but that is not the questions.
I own Dual Garos, i know there great....

I need to know the difference between
Triple Garos for a clutch basket & FT VTS garos??
both are for SC10 4x

The "Triple Garos for a clutch basket" are for the clutch basket I was selling before AE offered one. The "FT VTS garos" is for AE's plastic clutch basket.

So maybe I wasn't completely insane when I mounted them vertical. (Had no intention of using it for this at the time but hey, it might work.

The new VTS doesnt use the same pad design, older version will not fit.