It felt okay. It was 95° out and the sun was beating down on the track. His motor only got to about 170° though. This kid destroys almost everyone even though his truck is completely stock (Well except for RPM arms). He beat the track owner who runs a hopped up LOSI SCTE and can practice any time he wants. Imagine what he could do with some RCshox parts

I seem to have a lot of drag. What can I do to reduce drag and where should I look first? I have loosened my belt for the next outing and hope that helps.

Kids are amazing, They just DRIVE could care less about the setup and adapt to the truck the way it is instead of over complicating the setup. I got beat by a 10 year old at the Nats warm up race and it was weird considering he was only a few years older than my kid!!

First step is remove the belt and find out if the drag is coming from the front or rear.

Hey guys. I have the original 4x. bought her the first week it was available. I am preparing for my first race this upcoming weekend. I have helped build a new track in Delray Beach, Fl recently with opening day June 3rd. The track is large, and hardpacked clay with a good layer of dust when dry. I was running the castle 3800 4 pole with the 48p spur. was using a 22p pinion and having some nasty slipper problems like i've read on here for nearly a year. When i got home, I took her down and dropped the diff oil in the front. I installed the FT slipper assy with 32p spur but did not use the high torque pads. My originals were glazed so I sanded them a bit and reinstalled them with the FT parts. Now, I get a clicking noise that happens under load. I can't tell if it is the front or the rear. I have tried to tighten the slipper, but it really is a click, not the bark type noise a slipper will give. I have some high torque pads on the way. (here thursday) but think that i may have the diff click i read a short bit about on here.
Time for shims? Also, I don't wanna tear this truck down before my first race because I won't have enough time. can anyone also link me or part number me to the right diff shims for this truck?

Thanks in advance.

Ben

And then theres me lol.
The first couple of minutes in the 4x4 amain was that kid (13) with his stock SC10 4x4, another kid who can't be older than 10 with a SCTE, and then me (15). Then I broke out but the SC10 4x4 continued to destroy everyone. Unlike other kids he works on all his own stuff (about 7 cars) and is very interested in setup. I pitted with him on Saturday and he had 13 different sets of tires just for his 4x4. He pays for a lot of it himself too.

If you don't want to tear it down for shims. Just let it click.
I tore mine down for clicking, added shims, and it was already to late, even with added shims it clicked only slightly less. The gears had rounded edges so shims didn't help.

Get shims and replacement gears on the way, and let'r click.
Call it "the nitrous valve opening".

Perhaps loosening the slipper is in order.
If you hold the car in place, on carpet, and have only the rear wheels down.. power the motor and listen for rear clicking..
Do the same with just front wheels..

I was able to get a new "parted out" rear diff for $26 on ebay

Clicking gear

(above may help people searching in the future?)
To add to what kewltoy gave you, the cause of the clicking or skipping gears is the lack of shock travel limiter clips on the shock shaft (3-4mm) under the rubber bumper.
The shocks up travel needs to be limited or your a arm and your cvd will come into contact with the outdrive pushing it up. Then the pin on the inside of the diff that goes through the outdrive pulls into the sun gear shim creating a loose gear mesh and you start skipping gears.
A couple pages back someone posted a pick of him grinding out the inside of the outdrive allowing more angle to the cvd and only needed 2mm of shock shaft clips... clips came in the shock bag when you built the truck.
If you push one arm all the way up in its travel, you will see that the recessed cup in the stock a arm will come in contact with the outdrive and the cvd will as well, there is more than likely a wear line or ring around the cvd shaft where it contacts the outdrive.
Its been talked about many times on this thread, but kinda like finding a needle in a 1600 page hay stack.

As for the shims, stock is 0.2 thick this is 0.3 thick and gives you proper gear mesh, replace both of the shims.
http://www.trick-parts.com/product_p/tps5103.htm

Someone posted about AE recently changing that shim to 0.5 thick and then you dont use the shim on the outside of the diff case... but I'm not sold on that setup. But they obviously recognize that the gear mesh was too loose.

At least add the limiting clips before the race so your diff does not self destruct and then tear it down after.

I used 4mm sections of fuel tubing on the shock shafts. Added that months and months ago when I noticed my diffs puked all the fluid out of them. There is a wear ring on the drive shafts, but that is not recent. I replaced the front and rear diff cases and have no leakage. I did not shim them as I had no clicking noise and it was done before guys were shimming them.

I've followed this thread since its inception. I have run the truck for many packs testing and tuning. With the new track, I can actually fit racing into my schedule so I decided to do a little race prep and ran into this concern. I saw some diffs on ebay for fairly cheap. Maybe I buy one of each and build them with the shims and wait for the current ones to hand grenade.

Thanks guy!

Ben

This heatsink can be made to work with SC10 4x4 & Tenshock 4600kv.
Remove bracket. Remount fan at center. Dremel-cut in line with the first wing to clear the wires.

http://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p...052&p_catid=28

You added 4mm of tubing on top of the stock rubber bumper? If you give it a HARD push up on the suspension arm it does not come into contact?
I added 4mm of plastic clips that don't give, 4mm of rubber fuel tubing will compress to about 2 or 3mm, you may need more travel limiting.

Can you post a pic of your heat sink where you clearanced it to fit the sc411??

good point on the compression. I went down to the lab and sure as hell, it seems as if they are touching a little. I'll add a clip or two until there is no contact and shim the diff next week. thanks fq!

Ben

Lab

My lab has two 1:1 cars in it and not much room

is there a particular grease to be used for the shims in the differentials?

No, just whatever flavor diff fluid you want to run.

Some people have been using kyosho 5k and up diff grease because they are having leaky diff issues running fluid, but that has nothing to do with the sun gear shim.