The transponder manuals don't suggest placing them on top of metal chassis or metal servos...

I have a problem in my SC10 4x4 with the transponder counting unless it's mounted horizontal on the top of the servo case. And I have a plastic chassis. I don't know, but I suspect that it has something to do withe the EMF from the motor.

The thing that stops the transponder signal dead in it's tracks is lead. Being mounted vertically will screw it up too.

My transponder is Shoegoo'd to side of the lipo mount (standing on its side), and I haven't had an issue with the composite chassis.

Exact spot I run my MRT. It's well clear of the steering and no reception issues. I will say that I did have "poor signal" readings when I mounted on top of the servo on my B4.1.

Very interesting. Thanks for the reply.

Thanks, I will move mine.

Hey guys,
I just finished installing the conversion kit to use saddle packs on my SC10 4x4. Now my problem is how or where to mount my RX8 esc. I thought about removing the fan and cutting off the plastic piece to lower the esc height. Has anyone done this before? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks,

Yes, modding the case has been discussed before.

If you don't care about balance, you can also remove the radio tray and mount the ESC there.

I haven't had any scoring issues.

so as not to beat a dead horse but with all the slipper options out there what would be the best to up grade to ?

ive heard bad things about the center diff, that it eats thrust washers and bearings. and then everyone jumping onto the band wagon with a new option (not bad,options are good) i find it hard to pick one.

yea got the rc shox ball diff and garodisc
the mtx's clutch basket
and the associated ft v2 slipper and basket..
others ?

idk anything about the pros and cons of them. ive read some on hear about them but the way rctech is setup theres alot of reading to do.

thanks to anyone for some info on these.

Hi Guys
A little something I learned about people damaging Nanotech batteries, I hope you will agree it makes sense.

The is a small weakness in the Nanotech design, its not the lipo itself its the plastic case. The plastic case around the 4mm connectors is only around 1mm thick at the top of the case and will soften so then wire pressure can distort the plastic. If you have a high current draw motor or connectors that are high enough in resistance to heat the connections up to this temperature you may distort the battery case.

I know a few poeple that suffered from melted battery cases so I decided to take my new batteries apart and solve the problem before it happened to me and cost me money!

The wire from the Lipo to the 4mm terminal inside the battery is soldered at the bottom and is fairly rigid, I knew I needed to make the connector in the battery case more rigid and not move if the temperature got high due to a high current draw motor or connectors that are high enough in resistance to heat the connections up.

The fix I can up with was to drill 2 x 4mm holes where the small + and - symbols are on top of the battery at the highest part of the case between the connectors (make sure you don't exceed aroudn 5mm depth!), then I used a silicone sealant gun to fill each side of the battery case with silicone sealant. This holds the connectors in place if they get hot enough to melt the plastic and stops the battery becoming distorted.

Sorry if that was long winded, I hope it makes sense


Gary

Your fan is upside down.

Need some help.
I raced my FT sc10 for the first time sat. The rear diff went out. I tore it apart and re shimmed it. seems to be fine now. I'm running the kit setup. the truck was good but it seemed stiff. Running blue swaybar in front and orange in rear. shocks 35 in front and 30 in rear and yellow springs front and rear. 1.2 pistons f & r 30,000 diff fluid in front and 5000 in rear. Any help on a better setup would be great.
Thanks

I still can't find a reason to run a fan on an RX8 in a 6 lb SC truck..... even when temps outside hit a hot summer day (I'd say 40 degrees, but I'm from Canada, so I know to you guys, 40 degrees is COLD) my ESC still only ever showed 4 temp lights....

Sure, in 8th scale or Monster trucks, it's likely necessary, but for 4x4 SC, it's just something to break and add vibration....

Come race with us.. Summertime at night.. 95 degree air temp and 105 heat index with humidity in 90%+ range.. Did I mention that was at night? around 10 p.m.? Whole different world