Not to mention that being aluminum, it will dissipate the heat better, especially if your using it in a SC10 GT.

Is anyone even racing 2wd nitro SCs?

There will be at my local outdoor track ;-)

I have encountered this before but not with turnigy,good thing. I noticed it before it turned into a disaster,mu bullet connector(male from esc) was loose and it generated heat and it
Melted the the solder of the diacharge leads,you will notice when its loose if the bullet connector plug has some spot ,just like when you tap the + and - of the leads( not saying that you should do that,but you know what i mean. :-) but again im not an expert.

Im also using turnigy for my Durangos but never did i experience this "freak" accident. Maybe too much for turnigy to handle. :-)

Other than 1 nano pack that showed me the need of keeping the bullet connectors fresh, no problems with the other nano's. I run a 411 4600 rx8 with exotec chassis and scte aluminum stuff and 35 grams of lead front left so I'm not light and the nano's run 95% as good as my reedy that was $115. It was more than likely a old connector because those 65c saddles can handle everything the 411 (and esc) can ask for.

And yes, fortunately like yours my solders let go before my lipo got that bad so my one throw away did not look nearly as bad... but same thing, a throw away.

V2 center diff problem. Truck weighs 6.5 pounds, and during take off or hard exceleration on assfault, and turf my diff is slipping. I have it assembled correctly, and the clutch spring is completely compressed. I'm running 9 pins as recommended for a high bite conditions. Am I going the wrong way with this given the high traction surfac I'm running on. Seems more pins reduce the diff action. My guess is that it's such a heavy truck on a high traction surface that something has to give. Any one else come a cross this? Should I switch back to the VTS?

I'm running a MMP 1410 setup geared 62/14.

It's the rear diff. Had the same problem with mine.

Ive been reading some pages back and i noticed that guys are changing from Gear Diff to Ball diff, am i correct to say that? is there a huge benefits from changing from Gear to Diff? is this the same as the center diff? sorry i dont have this Kit (Yet) and still on the process of choosing, i like this kit coz of the challenge (belt) and see on here some of the settings, im more of the old school guy as BID like the Yokomo YZ10 and Kyosho. hahaha... so when i came back 20 years later, my first 4wd was a B44 which i was not too happy with and sold it. so now im in a hunt for a belt drive kit (SC10) and was happy of all of the inputs you guys are putting here...i have narrowed down the selection to two ( AE and Durango) , if i like the easy way out i will choose DESC410 but im inclined to SC10. keep it going guys... great stuff here and peeps...

cheers!!!

Other then the RC Shox center ball diff that replaces the slipper clutch assembly currently the only option for actual transmition diffs are gear diffs.

ya the packs are only about 10 charges old connectors not a problem. definitally faulty batteries. ive puffed 4 packs so far 2 for me and 2 for my brother running the higher kv tenshock in his. i think its 5200 kv.

While running my FT with the V2 center diff on a rough outdoor track today my truck developed a noise from the rear end which came on very quickly, hit a jump and then all of sudden it was there. When I took the rear gear cover it appears that their is a small wobble in the top shaft and the noise coincides with the wobble when running the truck very slowly. Have any of you had a problem like this? Would the lightweight top shaft be more prone to bending than the non factory team version? A little more info, the truck is new, I did the build, and this is the forth track day with it and around 10-12hrs drive time with it. Any help is appreciated.

Marcus or Cameron, have you heard of anyone bending the top shaft that might be attributed to overtightening the nut on the cd or do you think this could be attributed to overtightening the nut?

J&S Outdoors N/w





FT4x4

bumps ?

or

small crater's ? Lol

****not my ride below, someones who raced there though

Yes I personally have over tightened the nut and bent the end of the shaft. It can happen. Not sure about hitting a bump thing though. That sometimes can just be dirt in the spur or something.

Well, after a tq run I blew the main. Got too aggressive the first few laps and fell behind to 5th. Managed to take a deep breath and finish 3rd. One thing about running 6 minute races is it's hard to make up time if you drop back in the beginning. Oh well. Next time... at least my tq was the fastest run in the intermediate class today.

based from Experience when the lightened top shaft ( I think it started with MIP or Also with AE for RC10), the lightened top shaft tends to bend thus it will chew up the center diff gear BITD, i have not personally had this kit but i think its the same ( i think) but i could be wrong, so we never really opt for the lightweight shaft then...

. . . little too much watering the track. Glad it wasn't mine.