I would not be afraid of the Avid tabs as I cased a triple and landed right on the side of right rear wheel and my AE C tab is still intact with no signs of splitting or distress. I would look for the plastic hub to break before the riser but I could be wrong.

thanks dan-o

I swapped to Losi oil and upped to 35 front/30 rear as it's a tad thinner. Thought I'd give it a try as many say that the Losi oil is better. But to be honest I don't notice any advantage. My truck handles the same and my times aren't any faster. But I can say that I like the AE easy to pour spout.

Me and a fellow racer had the same problem. I took the diff apart the the little ledges the the cross pins sit on were messed up. Swapped in an old one from the non-factory team and haven't had a problem since

I've had the same issue...

You talking about the cross pin for the sun gears inside the diff? Those sit in the Diff case which isn't factory team specific...is it?

Asking because I'm ordering parts for a diff re-build since something stripped on me last night.

Thanks.

The AE C hub doesn't have two holes Siamese drilled in the graphite. Plus, you'll have to hog it out even more so the metric ball studs can go through it. My concern is the missing material will allow the ball stud to pull through the unused "adjustment" hole. I think the type of failure is called "punching sheer" but I'm not certain I'm using the terminology correctly. My wife is/was a structural engineer and is always quick to mind me.

Cameron - post pictures of your broken parts!

Very good point about the holes. Totally missed that aspect.

I've noticed something about my shocks from my Kit SC10 4x4. My springs rub on the shock bodies, the nut part where you hold them to assemble them. Is this a common thing? It's wearing the finish off and rounding the metal a little.

Someone posted a fix for this way back... It can be fixed by trimming the end of the springs. Works for most shocks.

I ran the VTS slipper for the first time today, and it felt great.. however, I noticed that the outer slipper pad (the side that rubs on the outside hub) was rather glazed again. I tightened the slipper some more, but is it normal to slip too much with a 550 size motor? The inner sides were just barely glazed.

Also, I noticed something strange. My brother in law runs the same truck and motor, but his top speed (even with stock slipper on both and identical gearing) is quite a bit lower than mine. On a long straight, I can easily overtake him at full throttle. He has no binding in the driveline. Only difference is that he has the clicker open, but under throttle, it runs in 4WD too afterall. Any idea on this?
Also, he has a lot more traction.. we both use the same tires, same age of tires etc.. while my rear end has a tendency to slip around in corners and get nervous on the straight, his truck drives smoother, more traction, but also larger turning radius.

Page 475...

Thanks, saved me lots of time searching for it!

no. I knew the material I had was not up the the task but I wanted to test what I though was a better camber location for the +8. It worked real good. Just was not up to the task of down siding at a angle to get the 180 turn after the landing. The I have some new material I will make some new ones with and I believe Marcus is going to send me set he made to test for him.