Serpent 811E Buggy Thread
#2116
Some arms have a tight fit with their hinge pins the TI pins will help also you can use a arm reamer on the arms so the pins float free. When you run dirty will get trapped dont use grease pull pins out and clean arms and pins use a dry lub for dirt reflection. Hope that helps
#2117
Tech Regular
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 302
Some arms have a tight fit with their hinge pins the TI pins will help also you can use a arm reamer on the arms so the pins float free. When you run dirty will get trapped dont use grease pull pins out and clean arms and pins use a dry lub for dirt reflection. Hope that helps
#2118
#2121
Maybe the arms are rubbing on the inner/outer hinge pin holders. If so, take a little off the where it is rubbing. Since you've tried it with the sway bars completely disconnected, also try disconnecting the rear hub. Eliminate each part til you can find the culprit.
#2122
Tech Regular
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 302
The hinge pins were designed to fit in the arms snug. That's why the ends are rounded so they can pivot and rotate in the plastic inserts.
Maybe the arms are rubbing on the inner/outer hinge pin holders. If so, take a little off the where it is rubbing. Since you've tried it with the sway bars completely disconnected, also try disconnecting the rear hub. Eliminate each part til you can find the culprit.
Maybe the arms are rubbing on the inner/outer hinge pin holders. If so, take a little off the where it is rubbing. Since you've tried it with the sway bars completely disconnected, also try disconnecting the rear hub. Eliminate each part til you can find the culprit.

Its pretty much been binding since the day i put it together. I guess I could ream out those holes too.
#2123
Tech Regular
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 394
From: Chandler AZ USA
With the webbed bladders, do you think the holes should face down into the oil, or up into the cap?
I installed holes down into the oil, but now I looked at the way CRE installed mine on my truggy and they have holes up into the cap.
I installed holes down into the oil, but now I looked at the way CRE installed mine on my truggy and they have holes up into the cap.
#2124
Tech Adept
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 147
From: Sweden
#2125
#2126
i will post a picture soon
#2127
Tech Rookie
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 9
I have finally hit the track yesterday, the car was really turning well and had good traction. however I had a big issue with motor slipping under braking.. I used blue locktite inside the screw but it didn't help..it happened like 5-6 times.finally I gave up. I checked the building but there is no wrong thing.
where shall I exactly apply blue locktite ? shall I apply it also around the metal ring that the screw goes into? I am using Tekin 2050kv fyi.
many thanks in advance.
where shall I exactly apply blue locktite ? shall I apply it also around the metal ring that the screw goes into? I am using Tekin 2050kv fyi.
many thanks in advance.
#2128
I used red locktite on everything related to mounting the motor.
no issues after more than 2 hours of running now..
I debuted running my car on the track for the first time in the C main at the Nocal Champs series... unfortunately, I am an electric newb, and didnt have my lipos charged correctly, and 2 banana/deans connectors were bad, so I missed my qualifiers.
First time on the track racing in the C main, I ran 12 laps, 1 more than my 11 with my nitro ttr S3... this car can really FLY, holy cow.
running a 2050 motor, and I was just starting to run everyone down on straightaways... but I think Im gonna gear up to 17 or 18, lol..
I cleared the triple, even cleared the quad no problem.. loved it!
when I want to remove something with red locktite, I just soak in PB blaster and use my heat gun a few seconds, and a really good tight driver and VOILA!
blue locktite is for suspension stuff.. not motors, elec or nitro.
_
no issues after more than 2 hours of running now..
I debuted running my car on the track for the first time in the C main at the Nocal Champs series... unfortunately, I am an electric newb, and didnt have my lipos charged correctly, and 2 banana/deans connectors were bad, so I missed my qualifiers.
First time on the track racing in the C main, I ran 12 laps, 1 more than my 11 with my nitro ttr S3... this car can really FLY, holy cow.
running a 2050 motor, and I was just starting to run everyone down on straightaways... but I think Im gonna gear up to 17 or 18, lol..
I cleared the triple, even cleared the quad no problem.. loved it!
when I want to remove something with red locktite, I just soak in PB blaster and use my heat gun a few seconds, and a really good tight driver and VOILA!
blue locktite is for suspension stuff.. not motors, elec or nitro.
_
#2130
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 69
Well I ran my first "race" yesterday with the 811e. I put race in quotes because it's just a bunch of friends racing on the backyard 1/8 track of a friend. But he has a AMB lap counting system, it's just a great setup!
As far as the car goes, I love it! It's more nimble than the 8.2e, and I feel it flies more balanced than the 8.2e as well. I wasn't the fastest guy out there, but I did win the first heat, because I was the only one of the four who didn't break. Second heat I came in third, high point in that one is I did run fastest lap. Main I pulled a DNF. A screw backed out of the rt upper arm link at the shock tower. But so far, I'm happy. Now to just get those 65C Gens Ace batts.
As far as the car goes, I love it! It's more nimble than the 8.2e, and I feel it flies more balanced than the 8.2e as well. I wasn't the fastest guy out there, but I did win the first heat, because I was the only one of the four who didn't break. Second heat I came in third, high point in that one is I did run fastest lap. Main I pulled a DNF. A screw backed out of the rt upper arm link at the shock tower. But so far, I'm happy. Now to just get those 65C Gens Ace batts.



5Likes