5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
04-29-2012 | 07:37 PM
Don't worry - AE will, and Geo will then claim it's the best thing to happen since cut bread.
He never did say why he thought it was a bad idea, other than I came up with it. Like I wrote earlier, it shouldn't matter. But since its come loose on everyone who's ran for any length of time, and since nobody ever uses the clicker, for a six dollar savings, I'm gluing mine.
Other than to save six bucks every now and then (anyone who knows me IRL understands I'm totally down with saving a buck), I haven't seen why it's a good idea not to.
I wouldn't be so fast to say that (and I think I'm the first one who said it). Under certain conditions, provided you have a track with medium grip or higher, the rearward bias is helpful. If the track is totally dry slick or destroyed, maybe not. But it's almost never helpful to have the weight either on the sides or up high (the Twenty Two rear ballast weight on top of the transmission and a couple of instances in sedan excepted). This is why I don't advocate the aluminum chassis - if you want to add 5 oz, fine. Put a piece of steel on the bottom of the chassis in the middle, but for cryin' out loud, don't add it up high on a chassis that already suffers from a high COG like all the SC trucks do.
He never did say why he thought it was a bad idea, other than I came up with it. Like I wrote earlier, it shouldn't matter. But since its come loose on everyone who's ran for any length of time, and since nobody ever uses the clicker, for a six dollar savings, I'm gluing mine.
Other than to save six bucks every now and then (anyone who knows me IRL understands I'm totally down with saving a buck), I haven't seen why it's a good idea not to.
I wouldn't be so fast to say that (and I think I'm the first one who said it). Under certain conditions, provided you have a track with medium grip or higher, the rearward bias is helpful. If the track is totally dry slick or destroyed, maybe not. But it's almost never helpful to have the weight either on the sides or up high (the Twenty Two rear ballast weight on top of the transmission and a couple of instances in sedan excepted). This is why I don't advocate the aluminum chassis - if you want to add 5 oz, fine. Put a piece of steel on the bottom of the chassis in the middle, but for cryin' out loud, don't add it up high on a chassis that already suffers from a high COG like all the SC trucks do.
04-29-2012 | 07:46 PM
04-29-2012 | 07:50 PM
It might be small, but it's there (B), and it's worse than if it were, say, near or below (D). If it was all on the bottom (D or below) and in the center (between the two hinge-pins marked (C) it would be better all around and I wouldn't say that.
A lot of guys like the Exotec and use them, I am not one of them because I want to keep the weights in the middle. Certainly we disagree, but do you see why?
I'm in good shape today. Geo thinks I'm nuts for making the truck less failure prone and Marcus thinks I'm nuts because I think the weight in the Exotec isn't in the right place!
04-29-2012 | 07:55 PM
Because part of the additional weight in the raised part of the chassis (near B, see below) compared to the plastic one, compounded by the fact the sides are far away from the center of the chassis makes it makes even worse (again, see B below).
It might be small, but it's there (B), and it's worse than if it were, say, near or below (D). If it was all on the bottom (D or below) and in the center (between the two hinge-pins marked (C) it would be better all around and I wouldn't say that.
A lot of guys like the Exotec and use them, I am not one of them because I want to keep the weights in the middle. Certainly we disagree, but do you see why?
I'm in good shape today. Geo thinks I'm nuts for making the truck less failure prone and Marcus thinks I'm nuts because I think the weight in the Exotec isn't in the right place!
It might be small, but it's there (B), and it's worse than if it were, say, near or below (D). If it was all on the bottom (D or below) and in the center (between the two hinge-pins marked (C) it would be better all around and I wouldn't say that.
A lot of guys like the Exotec and use them, I am not one of them because I want to keep the weights in the middle. Certainly we disagree, but do you see why?
I'm in good shape today. Geo thinks I'm nuts for making the truck less failure prone and Marcus thinks I'm nuts because I think the weight in the Exotec isn't in the right place!
04-29-2012 | 07:59 PM
I had ten ounces of ballast in my truck (most of it in the front) at one time, plus a 550 motor that was 3 ounces heavier than the 540 I have in right now. Now that I understand that the springs are far too soft in the rear (but the stock fronts are okay) I can sky it out with the best of them without fear.
Cameron's truck is on a diet, nobody else should be afraid of the diet if they know what they are doing with shocks and springs. I know, big assumption there.
04-29-2012 | 08:02 PM
Tech Master
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any one used the Associated XP sc1200 esc with a different motor other then the rtr reedy motor that comes with the sc10 4x4 ?
the esc guide says it can handle up to a 6100 kv 550 motor.
i was just wondering if its been done and how well it worked.
thanks.
the esc guide says it can handle up to a 6100 kv 550 motor.
i was just wondering if its been done and how well it worked.
thanks.
04-29-2012 | 08:06 PM
And it's not as close to the centerline as inline saddles, or as low as the dual 1s batteries I'm using.
Frankly, the idea that I think is the best one I've seen so far is the conventional 2s battery mounted in the center. Some of the installs have been a little butch, but IMO it has real promise. It has the most weight closest to the center.
I'd do it but my choice of electronics won't fit without giving up the beam deflection from the plastic sides after you mill them out for clearance.
04-29-2012 | 08:11 PM
Adding weight up high being bad. Right now ready to run my truck is 97oz now. I ran my new body with the wrap and could not feel much difference. Maybe because the weight is spread out all over. I was also testing the +8 rear tab. The truck was better on this track with the taller rear camber link.
04-29-2012 | 08:12 PM
A lot of the guys I race carpet oval with stopped stickering cars and doing custom paint because they didn't want the weight unless in improved the LH bias and it was at or near ride height. Black is the lightest color, you can do one and add about 3 grams total weight. Guess what color my oval car is.
04-29-2012 | 08:15 PM
But it's not as low as bolting a 5oz piece of steel to the bottom of the truck.
And it's not as close to the centerline as inline saddles, or as low as the dual 1s batteries I'm using.
Frankly, the idea that I think is the best one I've seen so far is the conventional 2s battery mounted in the center. Some of the installs have been a little butch, but IMO it has real promise. It has the most weight closest to the center.
I'd do it but my choice of electronics won't fit without giving up the beam deflection from the plastic sides after you mill them out for clearance.
And it's not as close to the centerline as inline saddles, or as low as the dual 1s batteries I'm using.
Frankly, the idea that I think is the best one I've seen so far is the conventional 2s battery mounted in the center. Some of the installs have been a little butch, but IMO it has real promise. It has the most weight closest to the center.
I'd do it but my choice of electronics won't fit without giving up the beam deflection from the plastic sides after you mill them out for clearance.
