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Old 04-24-2012 | 05:46 PM
  #14011  
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Originally Posted by madweazl
Having a bit of an issue trying to get full wheel travel left to right from the steering servo. I have EPAs set to 150% which provides plenty to the right but not enough to the left. Ended up moving the horn one tooth to the left and that almost did the trick but after readjusting the subtrim, I'm still a smidge off. Outside of cutting the ball cups a bit shorter to bring the rack over manually, I'm about out of ideas. Any suggestions?
make sure your turnbuckles are even on both sides(ball cups threaded on) i know on mine i had to adjust the sub trim a little to get the horn centered,and then you can adjust it also on the small steering turnbuckle that mounts the servo to the rack
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Old 04-24-2012 | 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by mxracer458
make sure your turnbuckles are even on both sides(ball cups threaded on) i know on mine i had to adjust the sub trim a little to get the horn centered,and then you can adjust it also on the small steering turnbuckle that mounts the servo to the rack
Turnbuckles left to right are identical lengths as measure with calipers but that wont affect whether or not the bellcranks (Avid) are sweeping lock to lock.
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Old 04-24-2012 | 05:51 PM
  #14013  
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Originally Posted by mxracer458
make sure your turnbuckles are even on both sides(ball cups threaded on) i know on mine i had to adjust the sub trim a little to get the horn centered,and then you can adjust it also on the small steering turnbuckle that mounts the servo to the rack
+1, also im sure you already did this but make sure your servo is centered before installed and make sure the radio also has it centered (trims at zero left and right) and see if this helps, just a suggestion
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Old 04-24-2012 | 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by kdub
On sale now.

Kurt
Thank you! Just ordered mine
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Old 04-24-2012 | 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by rcduder
+1, also im sure you already did this but make sure your servo is centered before installed and make sure the radio also has it centered (trims at zero left and right) and see if this helps, just a suggestion
Yep, had everything zero'd out before I began. Lengthened the linkage to the bellcranks and was able to get enough throw. Wish there was a turnbuckle here so I could get it right on the money without using trims but now I'm at about 130% in that direction so all is well.

Now I just need the front hex axles to get here and I'll be good to go. Looks like they'll get here Thursday so I should be able to run it Friday night.
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Old 04-24-2012 | 07:13 PM
  #14016  
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Originally Posted by madweazl
Having a bit of an issue trying to get full wheel travel left to right from the steering servo. I have EPAs set to 150% which provides plenty to the right but not enough to the left. Ended up moving the horn one tooth to the left and that almost did the trick but after readjusting the subtrim, I'm still a smidge off. Outside of cutting the ball cups a bit shorter to bring the rack over manually, I'm about out of ideas. Any suggestions?
Had this same issue, if your looking at your car with the rear closest to you, look at your top deck you have those three screws, look at the left screw now turn your wheels to the left and look where the bellcrank touches
down in their you need to dremel just a little then can get full lock or use a sharp xacto knife. Should not have to take anything apart because its not very much u need to file away. Just a little on the left bellcrank and a little part of the chassis where that left screw goes into.
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Old 04-24-2012 | 07:41 PM
  #14017  
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Originally Posted by madweazl
Having a bit of an issue trying to get full wheel travel left to right from the steering servo. I have EPAs set to 150% which provides plenty to the right but not enough to the left. Ended up moving the horn one tooth to the left and that almost did the trick but after readjusting the subtrim, I'm still a smidge off. Outside of cutting the ball cups a bit shorter to bring the rack over manually, I'm about out of ideas. Any suggestions?
Just in case, depending on your radio, is your dual rate 100%
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Old 04-24-2012 | 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by madweazl
Having a bit of an issue trying to get full wheel travel left to right from the steering servo. I have EPAs set to 150% which provides plenty to the right but not enough to the left. Ended up moving the horn one tooth to the left and that almost did the trick but after readjusting the subtrim, I'm still a smidge off. Outside of cutting the ball cups a bit shorter to bring the rack over manually, I'm about out of ideas. Any suggestions?
AE servo arm?
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Old 04-24-2012 | 09:03 PM
  #14019  
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Only other issue I've had with the car is trying to get the springs oriented so they dont bind on the bodies. I was able to get the rears pretty good but the front bind up a bit no matter what I do. Hopefully the Avids are a bit more forgiving in this regard.
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Old 04-24-2012 | 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by AngryRog
AE servo arm?
Yea, just using the kit arm.
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Old 04-24-2012 | 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by madweazl
Yea, just using the kit arm.
check servo saver make sure its not loose or the plastic is stripped from the bolt i glue mine
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Old 04-24-2012 | 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by rcduder
check servo saver make sure its not loose or the plastic is stripped from the bolt i glue mine
I have the Avid bellcranks. I was able to get the issue resolved though

Manual seems to recommend the 81t spur. I run an 8.5t Reedy and was going to start with 23/75 (close to what I'm using in the 22 right now) but was wondering if the car favors having the motor further back and that is why they're using the 81t spur in the manual?

Last edited by madweazl; 04-24-2012 at 09:22 PM.
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Old 04-24-2012 | 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by RickSlick
Zipperfoot,
In response to your question about always seeking car improvement.
Here is my 2 Cents.
Many people find it hard to believe that their car through some modifications can't really be improved any more. Its human nature to want to think you have the ability to always improve a device (car in this case).
Part manufacturers will always try to make improved parts (so they say) even though by just driving a bit more carefully or skillfully will result in fast laps.
As much as anyone wants to think, these cars do have some wiggle in suspension parts, wheels, etc. Does anyone think that a very minor part such as a thin washer in a suspension piece will make that much difference when many suspension parts have some minor play.
We all want that slight advantage over the competition, I find the hobby to be enjoyable when I relax, enjoy my race friends and realize this is whats important, not a 1mm play or adjustment on a small part.
Track conditions, tires and tire wear, and driving skill make more difference IMO.

Rick
I agree with you 100 percent. I too really enjoy the sport and took it up as a way to unwind. I also found your comment about the 1mm spacers to be so true. Kind of reminds me of a few of my mountain bike buddies that will spend hundreds of dollars on a part that will shave a few ounces off the weight of their bike, but never seem to realize that maybe loosing few pounds around their waistline will do the same thing for less.
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Old 04-24-2012 | 10:05 PM
  #14024  
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Originally Posted by madweazl
Manual seems to recommend the 81t spur. I run an 8.5t Reedy and was going to start with 23/75 (close to what I'm using in the 22 right now) but was wondering if the car favors having the motor further back and that is why they're using the 81t spur in the manual?
Remember, the B4 internal drive ratio is different than the 22. You can't assume that gearing the same will create equal acceleration and speed.

81/23 sounds like a good start with the 8.5.
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Old 04-24-2012 | 11:35 PM
  #14025  
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any body running the avid springs? I looked at the list It looks like i'd be starting white all around and seeing what happens...however that's 51 bucks on springs lol
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