RC10B4.1 FT/WC
Having a bit of an issue trying to get full wheel travel left to right from the steering servo. I have EPAs set to 150% which provides plenty to the right but not enough to the left. Ended up moving the horn one tooth to the left and that almost did the trick but after readjusting the subtrim, I'm still a smidge off. Outside of cutting the ball cups a bit shorter to bring the rack over manually, I'm about out of ideas. Any suggestions?
Turnbuckles left to right are identical lengths as measure with calipers but that wont affect whether or not the bellcranks (Avid) are sweeping lock to lock.
Now I just need the front hex axles to get here and I'll be good to go. Looks like they'll get here Thursday so I should be able to run it Friday night.
Having a bit of an issue trying to get full wheel travel left to right from the steering servo. I have EPAs set to 150% which provides plenty to the right but not enough to the left. Ended up moving the horn one tooth to the left and that almost did the trick but after readjusting the subtrim, I'm still a smidge off. Outside of cutting the ball cups a bit shorter to bring the rack over manually, I'm about out of ideas. Any suggestions?
down in their you need to dremel just a little then can get full lock or use a sharp xacto knife. Should not have to take anything apart because its not very much u need to file away. Just a little on the left bellcrank and a little part of the chassis where that left screw goes into.
Having a bit of an issue trying to get full wheel travel left to right from the steering servo. I have EPAs set to 150% which provides plenty to the right but not enough to the left. Ended up moving the horn one tooth to the left and that almost did the trick but after readjusting the subtrim, I'm still a smidge off. Outside of cutting the ball cups a bit shorter to bring the rack over manually, I'm about out of ideas. Any suggestions?
Having a bit of an issue trying to get full wheel travel left to right from the steering servo. I have EPAs set to 150% which provides plenty to the right but not enough to the left. Ended up moving the horn one tooth to the left and that almost did the trick but after readjusting the subtrim, I'm still a smidge off. Outside of cutting the ball cups a bit shorter to bring the rack over manually, I'm about out of ideas. Any suggestions?
Only other issue I've had with the car is trying to get the springs oriented so they dont bind on the bodies. I was able to get the rears pretty good but the front bind up a bit no matter what I do. Hopefully the Avids are a bit more forgiving in this regard.

Manual seems to recommend the 81t spur. I run an 8.5t Reedy and was going to start with 23/75 (close to what I'm using in the 22 right now) but was wondering if the car favors having the motor further back and that is why they're using the 81t spur in the manual?
Last edited by madweazl; 04-24-2012 at 09:22 PM.
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Zipperfoot,
In response to your question about always seeking car improvement.
Here is my 2 Cents.
Many people find it hard to believe that their car through some modifications can't really be improved any more. Its human nature to want to think you have the ability to always improve a device (car in this case).
Part manufacturers will always try to make improved parts (so they say) even though by just driving a bit more carefully or skillfully will result in fast laps.
As much as anyone wants to think, these cars do have some wiggle in suspension parts, wheels, etc. Does anyone think that a very minor part such as a thin washer in a suspension piece will make that much difference when many suspension parts have some minor play.
We all want that slight advantage over the competition, I find the hobby to be enjoyable when I relax, enjoy my race friends and realize this is whats important, not a 1mm play or adjustment on a small part.
Track conditions, tires and tire wear, and driving skill make more difference IMO.
Rick
In response to your question about always seeking car improvement.
Here is my 2 Cents.
Many people find it hard to believe that their car through some modifications can't really be improved any more. Its human nature to want to think you have the ability to always improve a device (car in this case).
Part manufacturers will always try to make improved parts (so they say) even though by just driving a bit more carefully or skillfully will result in fast laps.
As much as anyone wants to think, these cars do have some wiggle in suspension parts, wheels, etc. Does anyone think that a very minor part such as a thin washer in a suspension piece will make that much difference when many suspension parts have some minor play.
We all want that slight advantage over the competition, I find the hobby to be enjoyable when I relax, enjoy my race friends and realize this is whats important, not a 1mm play or adjustment on a small part.
Track conditions, tires and tire wear, and driving skill make more difference IMO.
Rick
81/23 sounds like a good start with the 8.5.




i glue mine