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Old 04-23-2012 | 08:58 AM
  #22036  
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx
interesting, now one of you needs to put this in PDF chart form so its easier to follow.....seriously!
Somehow I slept through this, but Cameron's post is spot on.

If you look at Kory's setup from the Jconcepts race, notice he raised the hub carrier 8mm, and used 7mm of shims below the inner ball stud. If you just add the inner shims, it makes the camber curve all funky which causes it's own set of problems.

http://teamassociated.com/pdf/cars_a..._JC_Spring.pdf

Originally Posted by Eaglesrx
I'm in the process of building my sc10 4x4 and noticed that my orion 550 doesn't sit flat on the chassis. When I position it so that it's flat against the motor plate, that end of the motor is not resting on the chassis. It's not as big as the novak ballistic 550 that requires more modification (dremmeling and opening up the center chassis) to get the motor in place and sit flat.

However, does everyone who has a 550 motor have to do some dremmeling to the chassis to have the motor sit flat?

Sorry if this is a basic question. I also didn't see it posted on my search of this thread.
Thanks for searching first!

The Novak ballistic 550s fit fine in the chassis with no modifications. Only the older (and obsolete) motors need help. You have to fuss with it a little to get it in there, but it fits. That said, your motor should fit in your chassis with no modifications.

I would double check your motor plate and make sure it's keyed in the slot of the chassis absolutely square. If that doesn't fix it, post pictures.
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Old 04-23-2012 | 08:59 AM
  #22037  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Cameron , you didn't know the rear hub mod lower`s the roll center ?

Would of told everyone when I posted the first pictures , but some here would of done their best to say I don't really know or trash me for the help .....

So I just posted the pictures to save the embarrassment ...
Yes, but it was also one of those things that I was not sure that I liked on the track. No one here had the carbon C tab that I could get to test with quickly so I could not get the plus 8 you have. So as high as I could go was not giving me the results that you were having so I asked the engineer. Somethings seemed better but my lap times did not reflect it in testing until last weekend. Every single lap 22.xxx. I was only able to raise the outside 4mm and the inside 5mm with what I had so it was good on a loose outdoor track and might be event better with the 8mm you raised it.

V2 center diff was AWESOME here. Very easy to drive.

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Old 04-23-2012 | 09:08 AM
  #22038  
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Originally Posted by Cameron Kellogg
Yes, but it was also one of those things that I was not sure that I liked on the track. No one here had the carbon C tab that I could get to test with quickly so I could not get the plus 8 you have. So as high as I could go was not giving me the results that you were having so I asked the engineer. Somethings seemed better but my lap times did not reflect it in testing until last weekend. Every single lap 22.xxx. ]

I just finally got my truck going buggy pace , and you know how fast that class is up here ...

16.4 sec

Mike S best bug time 16.0 sec ....


Just using what the Ae team uses ....

Ready for those Durango & losi and then some ...

still @5mm till the 12mm Team ball studs come in later this week
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Old 04-23-2012 | 09:16 AM
  #22039  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Would of told everyone when I posted the first pictures , but some here would of done their best to say I don't really know or trash me for the help .....
Kinwald had them last July, pics were posted on this board on 7/11/11. Users who were paying attention knew then. I had them on my truck sometime in August.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/9378946-post11.html



About a month later BK had a new ackerman bar, made out of carbon.

Anyway, way to bring it Team Xerox driver Wild Cherry - for reposing old tech (once it becomes proven because Kory runs it and AE put it on their site) and taking credit for it.

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Old 04-23-2012 | 09:25 AM
  #22040  
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Here comes my trashing now ......Ha !

Craig at least when I get the info the same day the rest get it here as well and with out any attitude..
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Old 04-23-2012 | 09:35 AM
  #22041  
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Originally Posted by cbaranski
Hey guys, I got a problem. I just got a Tekin Pro4 4000kv in my sc10 4wd and its is getting way hot with the gearing the tech support says to run. I started with a 15t pinion and the 62 spur. Run 5 laps and the motor was at 180, the LRP SXX TC was at 135. No boost at all. Went down to a 11t pinion and brang temps to 175, not a whole lot of difference. Need to get this set up going. any help will be appreciated.

Chuck
Assuming no timing, etc. Where are you topping out down the longest straight?

Originally Posted by Arakon
I had some issues at the track today. It's an astroturf track, but with a twist.. about 65% of the track is a worn, sanded astroturf that has medium to low grip. Most obstacles, some turns and the long straight are covered in a newer, sand-less astroturf, which has loads of grip. I had tons of traction rolling today, coupled with some spinouts.. I can't really go for less traction, or driving on the worn sections is like driving on ice. What can I do to get traction rolling under control? I already have the preload at 0mm front, 2mm rear (so sitting really low), I run yellow springs with 35/30wt front/rear, 3.25mm spacer under the rear inner ballstuds, 0.75mm spacer under the inner front ballstuds. Orange swaybar front, blue rear, clicker closed, overdrive front pulley. Strangely, the truck was great last weekend, and this is still the same setup.. I have a feeling the track surface is extremely temperature-dependant. Any suggestions?

I went up a lot on the shims under the inner ball studs. For our carpet track I was up to 5 - 7mm of shims front and rear.

Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Hope you do well with the new version of your slipper,.

Seems rather clear the new Ae VTS slipper performance sets a new standard for everyone to beat ...


mac
I never intended to make out your products are less than others or diss ....

Welcome it all and your input ...
I am assuming you mean slipper to slipper and not including RC Shox Center diff? I am still curious as to what exactly performance wise makes the AE one better.


Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Cameron , you didn't know the rear hub mod lower`s the roll center ?

Would of told everyone when I posted the first pictures , but some here would of done their best to say I don't really know or trash me for the help .....

So I just posted the pictures to save the embarrassment ...

Those Gold 12mm ball studs are really gona fly off the shelves now....

Can tell you how it will perform on the outdoor ....

Will be
Dailed......

BTW
Kudo's to Kody for the tip ....

For those on a budget you can get the 12mm ball studs in regular flavor too.
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Old 04-23-2012 | 09:39 AM
  #22042  
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Originally Posted by RichyRich
Thanks for the input, where did you get the diagram to build this for the rear hubs? I've always been told raising the outside of the camber link actually makes it looser? Raising the inner picks up traction?
And yes, our track is VERY loose!!!
Does anyone know when RC Shox is going to release the center diff? With all the rip off's going on in here I really don't want to pay for the diff and then have to wait forever to get it...
With all the talk about hub position and ballstud washers, I think it helps to take a step back and think about what the camber link does. (Please correct me if I'm wrong)

It's basic job is to add positive camber as that side of the suspension arm travels upwards in order to make the tire dig into the track more.

It adds more pressure on the outside of the tire to force more traction. If too much is added it will cause a smaller contact patch since the inside is lifted from the surface and eventually causes traction rolling.

On a low-traction surface losing that inner contact patch can cause you to loose traction since you are only using part of the tire.

So a shorter arm causes the change in camber to be more dramatic and a longer arm less dramatic.

Where I still get confused is what difference going higher on the ball studs or higher or in and out on the hub makes. Is it all about the arm length or do some setups change when that affect kicks in?
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Old 04-23-2012 | 09:42 AM
  #22043  
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Cain , I looked up the studs , only 12mm I found listed were the Team versions...

Compare ?
The Ae VTS slipper performance is so good it has stepped up the game .
This is why your seeing the others rebuild & improving their stuff...
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Old 04-23-2012 | 09:48 AM
  #22044  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Cain , I look up the studs , only 12mm I found listed were the Team versions...

Compare ?
The Ae VTS slipper performance is so good it has stepped up the game .
This is why your seeing the others rebuild & improving their stuff...
http://www.trick-parts.com/product_p/asc91050.htm
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Old 04-23-2012 | 09:54 AM
  #22045  
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Thanks ilan , you got a part # , placing orders today soon ...
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Old 04-23-2012 | 09:57 AM
  #22046  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Thanks ilan , you got a part # , placing orders today soon ...
Look on the link I put, right below where it says out of stock......


Ehh nvm, here you go ;-) ASC91050
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Old 04-23-2012 | 10:14 AM
  #22047  
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Just a heads up for those wanting the new version exotek chassis that will fit the Factory Team Saddle Pack setup is now back in stock, you can get them at http://www.trick-parts.com for the cheapest price on the net.....
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Old 04-23-2012 | 10:21 AM
  #22048  
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Originally Posted by Mizchief
What are your ESC temps? If it's hot motor cool esc I think that means it's under geared meaning that you aren't pushing much power though to heat up the esc, but the motor is spinning fast due to the light gear load.

Not sure what most run with the 4600 but I run the 4000 on a 16t
Can the Spektrum Telemetry take both measurements at the same time (i.e. run another temp through the Aux or something)?

I'll can move the thermo to the ESC, but was concerned taping the temp on would hinder heat sink and give false reading. I have an IR Thermo, so can try that.
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Old 04-23-2012 | 10:48 AM
  #22049  
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Originally Posted by ilanstylz
Just a heads up for those wanting the new version exotek chassis that will fit the Factory Team Saddle Pack setup is now back in stock, you can get them at http://www.trick-parts.com for the cheapest price on the net.....
Cool. How fast do they normally process orders?
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Old 04-23-2012 | 11:42 AM
  #22050  
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Originally Posted by n8b
Cool. How fast do they normally process orders?
If you order them before 4pm eastern time they will ship out that day.......
However they order the exotek directly from exotek's site so it all depends on when exotek ships it out.......
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