kysoho gyro gel , if you want motor to last dont go over 150 , turn your current down to like 30-40, and put timing , you mite be over revving motor.
ppl mistake how to gear just cuz your running hot doesnt mean go down in gearing , you have to be in the range where motor makes power. if motor starts making power at 2000 rpm to 8500 rpm thats how you gear it, hope that helps. Ldog

Coated steel.

I think the brace and the slipper upgrade would be worth $65 to a guy just bashing as a durability upgrade. I've seen it around for $44-54 dollars online.

DAMN BOY. You got as much weight as I do. Exotek Boycott FTW

Thanks, I'll play around with some changes to get temps lowered.

This is what I did with the garodiscs and basket. I wasn't sure where to place each disc. But it seems fine to me.

http://gearrings.weebly.com/rc-racing-stuff.html

The two garodiscs that are the same go on the outsides just how the FT pads would go, and the one that is diff. goes on the inside of the clutch basket under the washer............

Thanks for the info!

I've playing with the sc10 4x4 for 6 month's and I can't seem to get the rear to stay under the truck. I ran blue groove clay over winter and now outdoors at a large very loomy track. I have the Exotec, slipper basket 2 2c parralel lipo's and ran everything from 20k front/10k rear to 5k all the way around. It does not seem to make a difference... I even put the over drive pulley in today and it helped a little but the truck is unsettled at best. I have tried going down as low as 25 wt frt and 20 wt rear shock oil and it helped a little but no matter what any on power turns and rolling on the power on the straights the rear wants to get super loose. I just put the 2 2c's in for weight thinking it might help but still have the same problem.. and yes I have tried several different tire combo's, sway bar combo's, shock positions ect... the only thing I see different in the forums are the reat camber link height and RC Shox center diff that i'ver been waiting to come off back order for over a month. Any direction would be GEATLY appreciated... No, I don't want to buy a Losi... I had one, it handled great but clapped out in a couple of race days.
Thanks guy's

Does the Associated SC10 Contender Body that comes with the FT kit work with the +3 wheels?

When you get the ball diff it will fix all your problems.

I have my own track so I really don't bash any at all. My vehicles stay on a track when they are being driven.

I'm thinking I will go ahead and buy the kit since not only the slipper seems great compared to stock a lot of people seem to really like running the saddles.

your track is low traction, I asume. because you talk about loomy track conditions.
And you have your back end stepping out?

here is my solution.

I do not know if this will help in high grip situations, but it does help for sure with low to med grip conditions.

What are your ESC temps? If it's hot motor cool esc I think that means it's under geared meaning that you aren't pushing much power though to heat up the esc, but the motor is spinning fast due to the light gear load.

Not sure what most run with the 4600 but I run the 4000 on a 16t

First thing I did to my truck was 3mm of ball stud washers under the inner camber links, all around and put them all in the outer holes. (IIRC, true manual says to install them in the inner holes).

This worked well for me.