I went through two pair of stock arms before the rpm's were available. Put the rpms on last year and they still have not warped. My track is pretty smooth med sized with small jumps but I have crashed hard....I mean stress tested them a lot and they are still straight.

Yeah you have it , just wonder if I could use a combination of the two for less weight ..

I think it does, but I think the money can be better spent on the existing aftermarket parts if you want the best bang for your buck.

I would rather have the stock kit with center diff and exotek than the FT.

If I were starting from scratch again on this truck and wanted to save as much cash as possible and have a solid race truck I would get:
Exotek with inline saddle kit
MMP & Pro4
Center diff
yellow springs front and rear
yellow bars front blue rear
5k diff oil all around
rebars or whatever one set of tires that works decent at your local tracks

I think that would give a decent driver the equipment needed to be competitive in a club race.

Any recommendations where to vent the stock body that comes with FT for proper airflow and jumping. I was thinking the two small vents on b pillars of cab, both front fender vents, and rear horizontal vents in rollbar area would be a good place to start.

So in that case lets see how much those combos weigh instead of just the baskets to see how much is really being saved.

Do you race mountain bikes by chance? I've never seen any one as gram concerned as that group.

I'm 56 , use to race road , mountain , Track & cyclecross.

Was pretty fast too ....(Cat 3 )


A few grams here and there add up ...

By the time a guy purchased the VTS, and the MTK basket they could have just bought a V2 center diff.

Marcus, or Cameron either of you weighed the V2 center duff?

Ha, you called it! I used to race mountain bikes primarily downhill back in the mid 90's and remember we used to nit pick over how many grams we could shave with titanium bolts and parts. I picked parts not just by their function and strength but also by weight. Thought those days were over...yet here I am.

Dammmm yer old..

first rc race way back in 83....

finally all caught up with the thread lol.

Going to be doing a full teardown, clean up, and rebuild of my SC10 4x4. Anyone got tips on what to look for wearwise?

Also, what is the final consensus when it comes to putting an extra shim under the sun gears? I tried that by adding in the same shim already there and it became wayy too tight. Is there something I am missing here, maybe removing some other shim or something?

Center of the hood, over and behind the from wheel wells, over the rear wheel wells, and behind the cab above the motor. Basicly look at a flo-tek body, and that will give you some ideas. Don't forget to re-enforce the front wheel well bellow the front wind shield, or you first head on will result in some nice cracks

If its to tight you probably don't have to worry about it.
Just make sure your arms, and CVD's don't make contact with the out drives.
I only had to shim using one stock shim due to not catching the outdrive issues soon enough.

I believe the stock shims are 0.6 last time I measured.

Kyosho has some 5mm shims available in different widths that alot of guys have been using. I believe Amain has them last time I looked.

What I did for my rebuild

last Thursday



RPM arms
replace diff shims if the are not flat and smooth
replace diff o-ring
trim 1m off shock cartridge & fresh oil for shocks
install Ae rear camber mod
replace homemade chassis brace with the improved Ae brace
new suspension pins & hat bushing
new diff cases , counter gears & rear top shaft
install new Ae v2 slipper
new shoes, JConcept pressure points(gold)
new JConcepts High Flow body


I don't suggest adding extra shims in diff , just replace with new ones...

Thanks!