The main thing on your setup I see is you're using inside on the front arm right? I use that a lot but it produces tons of steering all around. Using red fronts with inside on the arm is super aggressive. 4 or 5 limiters is just fine with that shock angle. Try Losi silvers up from instead, I use them all the time.

Whatever the EPA numbers are doesn't matter. Every radio and setup is different. Mine are probably 89 and 92. Re adjust it and error on the safe side by a click or two.

Hey guys can some tell me if you have to shim the losi pistons if so how?
Thanks

I've used them off and on for years and have never shimmed them.

Found the part numbers for the ball studs

my options are
9796 .3 long
9797 .4 long
9798 .2 short
9799 .3 short

Does anyone know which ones are used to replace the stock .215, .250, .375?

Are they using shims in the steering pieces that we cant see to make up for size differences?

Time to buy new ones anyway figured I would try those this time

Ran mine one pack last week un-shimmed. Decided to change oil and shim them while I had them apart. I just used some super thin old motor shims I had laying around and put them under the top e clip. It made them snug. Could tell no difference.

If I didn't have the shims in my box I would not have worried about it.

ok thanks!

The different lengths are just the length if the thread, just get the longer ones for each particular spot and you will be good.

Between the docs and taking each point off my car, here's what they are:
ASC9796 x 6, used on the front shock tower, steering blocks, and rear brace. Replaces ASC6277.
ASC9798 x 4, used between the servo and bellcrank, and on the steering rack. Replaces ASC6276 & ASC3981.
ASC9799 x 4, used on the caster blocks and rear hubs. Replaces ASC3983.

The documentation is bad/ambiguous, some are mismarked "long" and others "short". ASC6277 is a .3" long, ASC3983 is a .3" short, and ASC6276 & ASC3981 are .2" short.

I can't get enough brake dialed into the buggy to my liking without it breaking rear traction. I have the epa set below 50%, barely enough to get it slowed. Is this a chassis setup issue?

Run on smooth, wet clay. fyi

what kind of speed control / motor?

That plays a big part in it too

Maybe your front springs/shocks are to soft, creating to much front weight transfer allowing the backend to lose traction under braking. Also try only braking while your still straight before going into a turn.

I don't like adjusting the EPA more than a few points. If you move it too much, then you loose linearity or even proportion, depending on your equipment of course.

Reset your EPA to 100 and drop the brake strength on the ESC (if you have that option). I much prefer the feel of this method with my M11x/Tekin setups.

Tekin RS, Team Icon 17.5

Shock set up seems fine - Losi bb red/yellow, 32.5, 30. Braking straight is an issue as well.

I'll give it a try...

I surely have to dissagree, While on the track your End Points and Exponential are the best tuning aids for you when the track isnt what you thought. Most people dont realise how much all of those settings in your Remote can help you A TON on the track...